106 ROUTE TO MUCHAIE. 
ing a long and difficult march before us. Our road first lay across 
the plain, which is of very unequal ground, till we came to the 
bottom of the pass of Atbara, where the ascent became very steep, 
and much incommoded with the Kantuffa, which, like the bramble, 
tears any linen that comes in its way. On reaching the top we disco- 
vered an encampment of troops, amounting to nearly one thousand, 
scattered about in parties, the numbers of which varied according 
to the consequence of their respective chiefs. They were refreshing 
themselves after the fatigue of the ascent; and being invited to 
partake of their provision, we seated ourselves on the grass, covered 
over in the country style with an outspread cloth, supported by 
spears stuck in the ground, and regaled upon some fine wheat and 
peas bread. Our own people, meanwhile, were grilling some mutton, 
in doing which a serious quarrel took place, which was very near 
ending in bloodshed. The parties went so far as to draw their knives, 
but were prevented from doing mischief by the bystanders, who 
rushed upon them with their spears and shields, and seized all con- 
cerned in the affray. Guebra Selasse picked out one of the oftenders, 
and put him in irons, to carry before theRas. He was only fastened 
with a chain to a young boy ; yet such is the influence of esta- 
blished custom, that no delinquent, in such cases, ever thinks of 
breaking away. 
*' The road hence was crowded with marching troops, asses car- 
rying provender, and with caparisoned horses and mules in abund- 
ance ; the last of which are invariably preferred to the horses for 
travelling. Among other chiefs was Shelika Welleta Raphael, of 
Beit Koccose, near Abba Garima, who behaved towards me with 
much civility. He first took Ibrahim behind him on his mule, which 
