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AXUM. 179 
country, we never heard the subject hinted at before we last left 
Antalow by any person whatever ; nor could we ever learn what 
had become of the Ras's father. After our return from the Basha s 
we had a visit from the Negeda Ras's, or head-men of the town, who 
brought us a sheep, curry, bread, maize, boosa, and a pumpkin. 
" After leaving orders with Hamed Chamie to buy mules for us, 
and hire more for our baggage, kc, we determined to proceed to 
Axum on the morrow, which, however, I could not finally arrange 
without having a dispute with our guide. The evening passed very 
pleasantly, as we were at a place where we could procure, for 
money, whatever the country produced. 
" October 18. — We left Adowa about eight o'clock, and proceeded 
to Axum by the same road that we had travelled on our former 
return thence; the path lies through the plain, and is much in- 
commoded with stones, as are also the cultivated lands around, the 
inhabitants never troubling themselves, as I have before mentioned, 
about removing any such incumbrances. On our arrival opposite 
the eastern hill of Axum we dismounted from our mules, for the 
purpose of examining more closely into the nature of the stone 
composing this hill, and also the better to survey the ancient re- 
mains in its vicinity. 
" After taking a view of the obelisk that is still standing, of which 
a drawing has been given, we proceeded again to the church, re- 
examined all the pedestals, the square inclosure, and the slab, on 
which we found no trace of an inscription, except the short Ethiopic 
one before mentioned ; and we were all of us satisfied that there 
never had been any other. The stone of the slab is of the same grey 
granite as all the other remains. We were then conducted to the 
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