PASSAGE ACROSS THE DESERT. 
S63 
therefore suppose we travelled over about thirty- three miles of a 
road, which winds considerably among the smaller hills. At nine 
we passed a building on our right, which was formerly used as a 
fort by the Turks, when they were more powerful, to protect the 
caravans from the robbers ; at present it is nearly in ruins. Soon 
afterwards the road became more stony, and we quitted the plain 
of Suez, and had small hills on our right and left. This was consi- 
dered as the most dangerous spot ; our escort was therefore on the 
alert. The Turks marched in front, displaying two flags ; the first, 
belonging to the mahmal, was white, with a yellow border, and in 
the centre the two-bladed sword in yellow : the other, belonging to 
the Sultaun, which was half green, half red, the former uppermost. 
Chedid was with them as Commander in Chief, and always pre- 
ceded the caravan to the top of the ascents, where he waited till 
they came up, and then went on as before. None of the party could 
this day procure the loan of a horse, except my servant, who made 
interest with a young Arab to let him have his, with sabre and 
musket, on promising to fight if we were attacked. A more com- 
plete coxcomb than this youth I never beheld. He had a very 
small musical instrument, something like a guitar, but with only 
four strings, on which he played with his fingers for several 
hours, while he continued to march on foot by the side of my Tak- 
terouane. At night he produced a little box containing a glass, a 
comb, and a toothpick, took off his turban, combed his hair, picked 
his teeth, and contemplated himself in the glass, with all the airs of 
a finished petit maitre. 
I collected during the march several very beautiful specimens of 
Egyptian pebble, with which the whole road was covered, to the 
