575 
CAIRO. 
erful chief to escort me across the Desert, it was difficult to induce 
him to enter the town ; but at length he was induced to do so, on 
receiving the Pacha's passport, and security for his personal safety. 
He came in again this day, and settled with Mr. Aziz for my jour- 
ney. In addition to the tent, I presented him with a shawl for 
himself, and a very rich piece of gold tissue for his wife, with which 
he declared himself more pleased than if I had given him ten times 
the amount in dollars. By the custom of the country, a Chief es- 
corting a caravan was entitled formerly to four dresses ; Mr. Rosetti 
reduced the number to two, which were also given to him. He 
charged eight dollars for the hire of each camel. Though only two 
were employed in carrying theTakterouane, yet the price was thirty- 
two dollars, in consequence of an idea that it is injurious to the ani- 
mal. The whole expense of passing the Desert was upwards of six 
hundred dollars. 
February 20.- — In consequence of a notification to his Highness, that 
we wished this day to visit the Citadel, he sent early in the morning 
seven richly caparisoned horses for our use, an officer of the troops 
to conduct us, and two Chaous Bashi to keep off the crowd. We set 
off, accompanied by Mr. Aziz, Mr. Macardle, and many European 
gentlemen ; and by the assistance of the Pacha's servants, who rode 
on asses, and did not spare their whips, made our way through the 
narrow streets, which were, as usual, crowded, till we reached a 
kind of open place before the gate of the new Citadel, opposite to 
which is a very noble mosque. We mounted a steep hill, paved 
with large flag stones, surrounded by ruins of houses lately de- 
stroyed in the disputes between the Turks and Albanians, till we 
reached the walls of the new Citadel, which are lofty and strong. 
