BOLTINE. 
415 
for the boats to be hired. We took a walk in the town, which is 
tolerably large and populous. The people were all extremely civil. 
The more respectable inhabitants came up to make their compli- 
ments and shake hands. We found a broken stone with some sin- 
gular hieroglyphics. The Caimakan dined with us; he drank wine; 
but on the Schech el Belled's coming in, removed the glass, and 
placed water before him in a silver cup. 
April ^6.— We were up by break of day, but it was some time 
before we could hear of the Schech ; at length he appeared, and told 
us that he had not been able to find the Rais of the boats : in short, 
nothing had been done respecting our voyage. We asked for our 
bread, which he had been ordered to prepare for our breakfast : he 
coolly answered by desiring us not to be in a hurry, it would be 
ready in time. Irritated at his impertinence, Vincenzo gave him a 
hearty blow or two with his pipe, and sent him away for it. We 
now found nothing was to be done without the Caimakan, who 
came immediately on our sending for him. After much conversa- 
tion between him and the different boat people, he seemed to hesi- 
tate with respect to the eligibility of our going by water ; the lake 
had rather fallen in the night instead of rising, and the opposite 
shore in this case was supposed not to have any water for two 
miles from the town. The intermediate space was mud, from three 
to four feet deep, over which we could not walk. 
Convinced by their reasoning, we gave up our favourite plan. 
Three camels were ready, but the asses were to be sought for. At 
eleven nine only were found, and we were told there were no more. 
Our baggage required twenty ; we therefore asked if we could hire 
a boat to carry part of our things by water. The Caimakan said, yes^ 
