DHALAC. 33 
cloth and ten dollars, while the other had only a piece of blue 
cloth. Coffee was immediately ordered, and our conversation com- 
menced. I stated that we wished to procure water and sheep, for 
wdiich we would willingly pay. They assured us they would sup- 
ply us: a specimen of the former was produced, and was excellent. 
I could not state the quantity wanted, but referred them to Captain 
Keys. They spoke in the highest terms of their master, the Nayib 
of Massuah, or, as they pronounce it, Massowah, They said, he 
was a good man, and if I wanted one pilot would give me two. 
There were plenty on the island, who could pilot me to Suakin, 
whither I told them I was going. The old man was now recognised 
as being the Nayib 's representative, and Governor of all the island, 
and our young visitor on board as his son. I more particularly en- 
gaged him to attend me during my stay, by a promise of a present 
on my departure. They told me that the place I was on was an 
island called Nokhara, and the constant residence of the Dola, who 
had sub-dolas at every other station ; that Dhalac-el-Kibeer had 
formerly been the principal residence, that now the port was bad, 
and could not admit our ship, but that we were very w^ell situated 
where we were. 
In defiance of the heat, I determined to visit the wells or tanks, 
where the water was kept, conceiving they were probably near 
the village. My young Dola accompanied me. We passed through 
the narrow passages that separated the houses from each other, 
without seeing a single female, or being importuned by a single 
beggar. There was a small unornamented oblong building on the 
road side, wiiich I learnt was a mosque ; near it were a few 
tomb-stones and two doom-trees. We ascended nearly a mile 
