DHALAC. 
39 
not press it. He got ready two asses, and went on with them. The 
road was rocky and uneven, and in several places the earth had di- 
vided, and formed clefts, about three feet across, where widest, and 
several hundred yards in length. They were of considerable depth ; 
and the splashing of the stones thrown down, proved that there was 
water at the bottom. 
After a fatiguing journey of five miles from their resting place, 
they got to Dhalac-el-Kibeer by two o'clock. A pleasant breeze 
had enabled them to bear the heat. At a little distance from the 
town they were met by several of the inhabitants, and among others 
by the priest; he differed in appearance from the rest in nothing 
except his having a string of beads round his neck. Mr. Salt and his 
companions were conducted to the Serai, had couches prepared for 
them, obtained milk and water to drink, and soon afterwards, coffee. 
Their visitors were numerous, as the curiosity of the w^hole place was 
excited to view the first Europeans that ever had, in their time, visited 
them. Mr- Maxfield's uniform in particular excited much curiosity. 
On their expressing a wish to go out with their books and papers, the 
priest informed them, that without an order from Nokhara he could 
not allow it, but that he would, if they pleased, send off a messenger 
instantly, who might be able to return in the course of the night. 
This was done, and, as I have before observed, the letter to me 
was faithfully delivered. Upon expressing a wish to be left to 
themselves, every body retired, and some very good cakes with milk 
and water were sent them : these, with the articles they had brought 
with them, afforded a very tolerable meal, after which they again 
had coffee. In the evening, under pretence of bathing, they visited 
the harbour, and, in consequence of what the priest had said, made 
