MOCHA. 
^09 
After much difficulty and some danger we landed, and found 
horses waiting for us. Captain Crowninshield and the other 
Americans who were on shore met us without the town, as did 
Devage, and many others ; at the gate the Dola's horses and tom- 
toms were waiting, which preceded me with their incessant din to 
his house. I was permitted to ride to the steps of the door, a very 
unusual condescension at the present day, though formerly it was 
allowed to all Europeans who visited the Dola. It was the fast of 
Ramadan, when the Arabs eat nothing from the rising of the sun to 
the setting ; to make which as easy as possible, they turn night into 
day, carousing during the whole of the former, and dedicating the 
latter to sleep. The Dola was not awake, so that he could not 
receive me, and I was kept waiting a few minutes; however, to 
compensate this neglect, he rose up to pay his compliments to each 
of the gentlemen of my party, who were successively presented to 
him. The usual compliments passed. Rose water was presented, and 
our chins perfumed with frankincense. To a bearded Arab this must 
be a pleasant ceremony ; but to us I always thought it had a ridicu- 
lous appearance, and smiled when my friends underwent the opera- 
tion. The two salutes of four guns each were fired, as he promised. 
I found the factory as dirty as ever, and in as great confusion. 
It was one of my first labours to induce Mr. Pringle to put it a little 
in order. The Americans were very sensible and intelligent men, 
particularly Captain Crowninshield, who belonged to the very res- 
pectable house of that name, and Captain Bancroft, who was ori- 
ginally educated for the bar, but obliged by ill health to give it up* 
Abdallah, whom I wished to take with me as my servant, agreed to 
go, and immediately began procuring us the necessaries waoled« 
