C. W. Stuart ^ Company, Nurserymen 
General Instructions for Transplanting and 
Managing Fruit Trees 
1. PREPARING THE GROUND — Before planting fruit trees the soil (except new ground), should b» 
made mellow by repeated plowing, and where the soil is densely packed, a subsoil plow should be used and the 
ground stirred up from twelve to fifteen inches deep. If tliis is neglected the roots are soon surrounded by an 
almost impenetrable wall and cannot be expected to live many years. Whenever this system has been practiced, 
healthy and vigorous trees and fine fruit have been the result. 
2. RECEIVING AND CARING FOR TREES— Trees are frequently ruined through the lack of care 
or bad management after they full into the hands of the purchaser. When trees are received the roots should 
be covered with a blanket, sack or straw until they reach their destination. The bundle should then be opened 
and the trees separated from the moss in which they are packed. If the roots have become dry from long exposure, 
straw should be spread upon the ground, the trees laid upon it, then covered entirely (roots and tops) with straw 
and the whole well watered. If holes are not yet dug or the grounU too wet to plant when the trees are_ re- 
ceived, dig a trench and lay the trees in a slanting fiosifion, so that you can cover up the roots and two-thirds 
of the body or stalk. In this position let them remain until the holes are dug or the ground is in a smtable con- 
dition to receive them. 
3. DIGGING THE HOLES — If the soil for an orchard has been properly prepared by subsoiling and 
deep plowing, then the opening of the holes becomes a very .simple matter, and really this is by far the easiest, 
cheapest and best plan; for if the soil is thoroughly pulverized to a depth of from twelve to fourteen inches, all 
that is necessary is to measure off the distance at which the trees shall stand from one to another and the order 
of planting \Vhere only a few trees are to be planted and the soil ha.-i not been subsoiled, or where the trees are 
to be planted in sod, then the holes ought to be at least four feet wide and eighteen to twenty inches deep, the 
subsoil thrown back and the hole filled up to proper depth with fine top soil, to receive the trees. 
4. PRUNE BEFORE PLANTING— Both root and top should be pruned at time of planting and before 
the tree is set in the ground. First cut off the ends of the broken and bruised roots with a sharp knife, in a slant- 
ing direction on the under side. This will cause the wound to heal over readily, by throwing out plenty of fibrous 
roots at the end. Then cut back each branch or side Umb to a bud not more than four to six inches from the 
body. Then cut back the leader or central Umb so as to leave it about four or five inches above the highest side 
limb. When there are no side limbs the tree should be headed back to a height proper to form a top. None of 
the lower limbs should be cut off entirely, as it is best to form the heads as low as possible, so that the limbs and 
leaves will protect the trunk from the direct rays of the sun. 
5. DEPTH TO PLANT — Immense numbers of trees are ruined by being planted too deep. Most kinds 
of fruit trees, except dwarf pears and plums on peach roots, should be planted not over two or three inches deeper 
than they grow in the nurserv row. Dwarf pears and plums on peach roots should be set so that the joint where 
the body and roots are united will be about four inches below the ton of the ground. By this means roots will 
be thrown out from the body that is covered and larger and longer-lived trees secured. 
6 PLANTING — When ready to plant, take from the trench a few trees at a time; place the tree in position 
and arrange it to the proper depth bv filling in or raking back the soil to or from where the tree will stand; then 
fill in the fine, mellow soil between and around the roots with the hand, arrangmg the roots in their natural posi- 
tion and packing the soil carefully around them. When roots are barely covered, sprinkle on water to moisten 
the soil and settle it among the roots; then fill to the top, press earth very firm around the tree with the foot as 
you fill in. Throw a bucket of water around each tree to settle ground, and scatter a httle soil on to prevent 
baking. 
7 MULCHIN(3 — Mulching prevents the moisture from escaping and maintains equitable temperature 
about the roots. The material used may be long manure, litter, straw, grass or hay, which should be spread 
on the surface around the tree for the space of four or five feet, and three to six inches deep. Bearing trees may 
bg benefited by mulching heavily in winter, which will tend to prevent an early development of fruit buds and 
assist them to escape the effect of late frosts. 
8 AFTER CULTURE — The trees should be kept free from grass and weeds, and no crops should be grown 
in the orchard while the trees are young, except such as can be cultivated with the plow or hoe. Cultivate well in 
the spring and summer. 
9 AFTER PRUNING— The great majority of people do not take proper care of their trees after planting. 
This is a great mistake. If a tree or vine does not receive the right kind of care and enough of it when young, it 
will never attain a healthy old age. Very much has been said about prumng by various authors. Judging these and 
our own experience and observation, we would say: The best time to prune fruit trees, and about all kinds of 
trees and shrubs, is during May and June, May prefi^rred; but be governed by the health and vigor of the tree. We 
do not advise severe pruning, as too much would injure the tree. Keep all superfluous forks and limbs cut off 
and the heads in proper shape to admit air and sunshine as long as the tree lives. Currants and &90scberriea 
should be trimmed late in the fall or early in the spring, before commencing to grow; Grape vines late in Novem- 
ber or any time during the winter up to March 1st; after this trimming is apt to excite bleeding or flowing of sap 
from the wounds. If desirous of getting rubbish removed from the orchard during the winter, cut limbs off 
eight to ten inches from the body and cut balance off during May or June following. 
10. STANDARD APPLE TREES— May be planted 30 to 40 feet apart. We advise planting the rows 
40 feet each way, using one in the diamond as a filler. When the trees attain ape and begin to crowd, cut out 
the filler Tho-se left nill be in better condition and the others will have borne six or eight crops of fruit. Low 
heads are preferred, so as to protect the trunk from direct rays of the sun. Cultivate as directed and do not 
neglect to mulch them, especially young trees. 
1 1. CRAB APPLES — .Should be planted 25 feet apart. They are very hardy and bear young and abun- 
dantly. The fruit is highly valuable for preserves and jelly and makes finest cider known. Plant and cultivate 
same as an apple. 
12 STANDARD PEARS — .Should be planted 15 to 20 feet apart. They are grown on stocks imported 
from France and will grow on almost any soil, provided the subsoil is not too wet; whenever this is the case, the 
ground should be thoroughly underdrained. The best results are obtained from pears on a clay slope where the 
soil is poor. 
1 3 STANDARD CHERRIES — Should be planted 15 to 20 feet apart. The soil best adapted to the Cherry 
is a light loam on a gravelly or sandy subsoil, though it will do well in almost any situation not too wet. To 
insure a good growth, Cherries should be well cut back for several successive seasons. Plant as directed ana 
mulch well in the spring. 
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