84 
VOYAGE UP THE TAPAJOS. Chap. 11. 
The climate is rather more humid than that of 
Santarem. I suppose this is to be attributed to the 
neighbouring country being densely wooded, instead of 
an open campo. In no part of the country did I enjoy 
more the moonlit nights than here, in the dry season. 
After the day's work was done I used to go down to the 
shores of the bay, and lay all my length on the cool 
sand for two or three hours before bed-time. The soft 
pale light, resting on the broad sandy beaches and palm- 
thatched hut$, reproduced the effect of a mid- winter scene 
in the cold north when a coating of snow lies on the land- 
scape. A heavy shower falls about once a week, and 
the shrubby vegetation never becomes parched up as at 
Santarem. Between the rains the heat and dryness in- 
crease from day to day : the weather on the first day 
after the rain is gleamy with intervals of melting 
sunshine and passing clouds ; the next day is rather 
drier, and the east wind begins to blow ; then follow 
days of cloudless sky, with gradually increasing strength 
of breeze. When this has continued about a week a 
light mistiness begins to gather about the horizon ; 
clouds are formed ; grumbling thunder is heard, and 
then, generally in the night-time, down falls the re- 
freshing rain. The sudden chill caused by the rains 
produces colds, which are accompanied by the same 
symptoms as in our own climate ; with this exception 
the place is very healthy. 
June 17 th. — The two young men returned without 
meeting with my montaria, and I found it impossible 
here to buy a new one. Captain Thomas could find me 
only one hand. This was a blunt-spoken but willing 
