Chap. 11. 
DESCENT OF THE TAPAJOS. 
143 
Sept. 21s^. — At five o'clock in the afternoon we 
emerged from the confined and stifling gully through 
which the Cupari flows, into the broad Tapajos, and 
breathed freely again. How I enjoyed the extensive 
view after being so long pent up : the mountainous 
coasts, the gray distance, the dark waters tossed by a 
refreshing breeze ! Heat, mosquitoes, insuflicient and 
bad food, hard work and anxiety, had brought me to a 
very low state of health ; and I was now anxious to 
make all speed back to Santarem. 
We touched at Aveyros, to embark some chests I had 
left there and to settle accounts with Captain Antonio : 
finding nearly all the people sick with fever and vomit, 
against which the Padre's homoeopathic globules were of 
no avail. The Tapajos had been pretty free from epi- 
demics for some years past, although it was formerly a 
very unhealthy river. A sickly time appeared to be 
now returning : in fact, the year following my visit 
(1853) was the most fatal one ever experienced in this 
part of the country. A kind of putrid fever broke out, 
which attacked people of all races alike. The accounts 
we received at Santarem were most distressing : my 
Cupari friends especially suffered very severely. Joao 
Aracu and his family all fell victims, with the exception 
of his wife : my kind friend J oao Malagueita also died, 
and a great number of people in the Mundurucu village. 
The descent of the Tapajos in the height of the dry 
season, which was now close at hand, is very hazardous 
on account of the strong winds, absence of current, and 
shoaly water far away from the coasts. The river towards 
the end of September is about thirty feet shallower 
