Chap. IY. 
A NIGHT JOURNEY. 
245 
of sugar-cane, four baskets of farinha, three cedar planks, 
a small hamper of coffee, and two heavy bunches of 
bananas. After we were embarked the old lady came 
wdth a. parting gift for me — a huge bowl of smoking- 
hot banana porridge. I was to eat it on the road to 
keep my stomach warm." Both stood on the bank as we 
pushed off, and gave us their adeos, " Ikuana Tupana 
eirtim (Go with God) : a form of salutation taught by 
the old Jesuit missionaries. We had a most uncom- 
fortable passage, for Cardozo was quite tipsy and had 
not attended to the loading of the boat. The cargo had 
been placed too far forward, and to make matters w^orse 
my heavy friend obstinately insisted on sitting astride 
on the top of the pile, instead of taking his place near 
the stern ; singing from his perch a most indecent love- 
song, and disregarding the inconvenience of having to 
bend down almost every minute to pass under the boughs 
and hanging sipos as we sped rapidly along. The canoe 
leaked, but not, at first, alarmingly. Long before sunset, 
darkness began to close in under these gloomy shades, 
and our steersman could not avoid now and then run- 
ning the boat into the thicket. The first time this 
happened a piece was broken off the square prow 
(rodella) ; the second time we got squeezed between 
two trees. A short time after this latter accident, 
being seated near the stern with my feet on the bottom 
of the boat, I felt rather suddenly the cold water above 
my ankles. A few minutes more and we should have 
sunk, for a seam had been opened forward under the 
pile of sugar-cane. Two of us began to bale, and by 
the most strenuous efforts managed to keep afloat with- 
