Chap. IY. A MAMELUCO FAEMEE. 301 
IB the vivid, light-green and cheerful foliage of the woods 
on the numerous islets which rest like water-gardens on 
the surface of the lake. Flocks of ducks, storks, and 
snow-white herons inhabit these islets, and a noise of 
parrots with the tingling chorus of Tamburi-paras was 
heard from them as we passed. This has a cheering 
effect after the depressing stillness and absence of life 
in the woods on the margins of the main river. 
Cardozo and I with two Indians took a small canoe 
and crossed the lake on a visit to Senhor Gaspar Jose 
Rodriguez, a well-to-do farmer, and the principal 
resident of Cayambe. His eldest daughter, a home- 
loving, industrious girl, had married the Portuguese 
Miguel, my old travelling companion, a few days before 
we left Ega on these rambles. We had attended and 
danced at the wedding, and this present visit was in 
fulfilment of a promise to call on the family whenever 
we should be near Cayambe. Senhor Gaspar was one 
of those numerous half-caste proprietors, a few of whom 
I have had occasion to mention, who by their indus- 
trious, regular habits, good sense, and fair dealing, do 
credit to the class to which they belong. We have 
heard so much in England of the worthlessness of the 
half-caste population of Tropical America that it is a 
real pleasure to be able to bear witness that they are 
not wholly bad. It is, however, in retired country dis- 
tricts where I have chiefly mixed with them. Some 
of them, such as the friend of whom I am speaking, 
are, considering their defective education, as worthy 
men as can be found in any country. There is however, 
it must be confessed, a considerable number of super- 
