302 EXCURSIONS AROUND EGA. Chap. IY. 
latively lazy, tricky, and seGsual characters amongst the 
half-castes, both in rural places and in the towns. I 
found the establishment of Senhor Gaspar similar to 
that of Joao Trinidade which I have before described, 
opposite to the mouth of the Madeira. It was situated 
on a high bank : the dwelling-house w^as large and airy, 
but roughly built, and with unplastered mud-walls. 
There was a considerable number of outhouses, and in 
the rear, extensive orchards of fruit and coffee trees, 
with paths through them leading to the mandioca 
plantations. Senhor Miguel, with his wife, were absent 
at a new clearing which they had made for themselves 
in another part of the banks of the lake. The rest of 
the family were at home. 
We were received with frank hospitality by these 
shrewd and lively people. Senhor Gaspar had seven 
children, and had himself taught them all to read and 
write. The boys were very quick ; one of them after- 
wards became clerk to the Municipal Chamber of Ega. 
There was an air of cheerfulness and abundance about 
the place that was quite exhilarating. 
We dined, seated on a large mat, over which a clean 
white towel was spread : the meal consisting of fowls 
and rice (the general entertainment in this country for 
visitors), with dessert of laranjas torradas," or toasted 
oranges ; that is, oranges partially dried in the sun. 
The fruit, grown w^ith a little greater care in Gaspar's 
orchard than is usually bestowed on it in this country, 
was very fine in itself, but treated in this form its 
sweetness and richness of flavour were far superior to 
anything I had yet tasted. When we were about leaving, 
