394 
EXCUESIOITS BEYOI^D EGA. 
Chap. YI. 
not here see the two shores of the river on both sides at 
once ; lines of islands, or tracts of alluvial land, having 
by-channels in their rear, intercepting the view of the 
northern mainland, and sometimes also of the southern. 
Beyond the Issa, however, the river becomes evidently 
narrower, being reduced to an average width of about a 
mile ; there were then no longer those magnificent 
reaches, with blank horizons, which occur lower down. 
We had a dark and rainy night after passing Tunantins, 
and the passengers were all very uneasy on account of 
the speed at which we were traveUing, twelve miles an 
hour, with every plank vibrating with the force of the 
engines. Many of them could not sleep, myself amongst 
the number. At length, a little after midnight, a 
sudden shout startled us ; " back her ! " (English terms 
being used in matters relating to steam-engines). The 
pilot instantly sprung to the helm, and in a few moments 
we felt our paddle-box brushing against the wall of 
forest into which we had nearly driven headlong. 
Fortunately the water was deep close up to the bank. 
Early in the morning of the 10th of September we 
anchored in the port of St. Paulo, after five days' quick 
travelling from Ega. 
St. Paulo is built on a high hill, on the southern 
bank of the river. The hill is formed of the same 
Tabatinga clay, which occurs at intervals over the whole 
valley of the Amazons, but nowhere rises to so great an 
elevation as here, the height being about 100 feet 
above the mean level of the river. The ascent from the 
port is steep and slippery; steps and resting-places 
have been made to lighten the fatigue of mounting, 
