74 
THE YOUNG SCIENTIST. 
that require to be pinned. A better one is ply another dose of ether, thus keeping it 
made by using two cigar boxes, fastening j from fluttering, and insensible to pain, 
the lids together with short screws. A | Killing. — Some prefer to kill specimens 
cushion or piece of cork for pins should be j as soon as caught, by the use of a wide- 
fastened at one end of the box. As the i mouthed cyanide bottle, small enough for 
specimens must be made secure, it is a good i the pocket. To make this, procure at the 
plan to line the box with sheet cork, or j druggists one or two ounces of cyanide of 
melted beeswax, to prevent bending the i potassium, and powder it. Put two or 
pins by pressing into the wood. The whole | three layers of the poison into the bottle, 
may be suspended from the shoulder by a | with pieces of blotting paper between the 
cord, or fastened by a strap to the waist. [ layers, and one piece cut a little larger than 
The pockets of the collector should at all 
times be well stocked with pill boxes, of 
different sizes, in which may be placed any 
odd specimens that are sure to turn up when 
least expected. 
Stupefying.— Kiier catching a butterfly or 
moth, it should be given a dose of ether or 
chloroform (sulphuric ether is best), of 
which the collector should carry a vial. A 
penny paint brush stuck in the cork is 
handy and prevents waste. By touching 
the inside of the bottle, to put over all. 
Press this down firmly, letting the whole 
fill the bottle about one- quarter full. For 
home use, a jar the size and shape of a 
candy jar, with a wide mouth, may be pre- 
pared, of course using more of the poison. 
Keep this well corked or covered, as the 
fumes are very poisonous. Into this jar 
put any specimens that are brought home 
stupefied with ether. No harm will be done 
if insects are allowed to remain in the jar 
the mouth of the captive with the moistened I over night— in fact they will become per 
brush, it will at once become happy and 
entirely oblivious to the operation of pin- 
ning, which, if done without stupefying, is 
both cruel and inconvenient. 
Pinning. — Now take your specimen from 
the net, and, holding it by the under side 
of the body, in the fingers of the left hand, 
thrust the pin in at the centre of the thorax 
(the second division of the body) , and out 
between the second and third pair of legs, 
as seen in the cut. Some moths will bleed 
a little when first pinned. A piece of blot- 
ting-paper will quickly absorb the blood, 
and prevent it soiling their plumage. The 
specimen may now be pinned in the collect- 
ing box, and if after a while it revives, ap- 
vaded with the poison, and it will tend to 
preserve them. 
Setting. — When taken from the jar, they 
should be immediately set on the mounting 
board, as shown in another article in this 
journal. They must remain set until rigid, 
requiring from two or three days to a week, 
according to the size. The wings must not 
droop; if they do, let them remain longer 
on the mounting board. In setting butter- 
flies and moths, never put a pin through 
the texture of the wings. A needle driven 
into a penholder may be used to manipulate 
the wings, holding them forward with pins 
driven in the board. 
The primary (forward) wings should be 
carried forward enough to show all the 
markings of the secondary (back) wings. 
The fore feet, tongue and antennse may 
be arranged according to fancy, and they 
will always remain in the position in which 
they dry. 
Entomological Pins. — These are manu- 
factured especially for the use of collectors, 
and may be obtained from dealers in natur- 
alist's goods. They are made long and 
slim, that the specimens may be set well up 
