80 
TR^ YOUNG SCIENTIST. 
rake on each side of 1 ^ inches. Fasten from 
outside with li inch No. 9 screws, about 2^ 
inches apart. As there will be considerable 
additional strain at the upper edge of the 
side boards, in consequence of their flare, 
they should be stayed by a quarter-inch 
bolt passing clear across the stern, against 
the inside of the stern piece. 
The keel, which is 1^ by 2 inches in size, 
should now be fastened to the bottom. 
Commencing at the bow^ it is first fastened 
to the under side of the stem piece, over- 
lapping the joint made by the bottom, as 
shown in Fig. 8, and then fastened to the 
bottom boards from the inside, with 
inch No. 13 screws through the bottom, al- 
terfiating them in position, as shown in the 
plan view, the screws on same side of joint 
being spaced apart three or four inches. 
Next finish the gunwale with a suitable 
molding, something like that shown in 
Figs. 3 and 4. Taking two pieces of proper 
length — one for either side — plane down 
the backs of one end of each for a distance 
of 18 inches, and, beginning about 9 inches 
back of the point of the stem post, fasten 
with screws to the outside edges of the 
sides, and cut ofi" flush with the back of 
stern. 
The shell of the boat being finished, next 
in order will be bracing and stiffening, and 
providing it with seats and necessary rowing 
and steering apparatus. The keel should 
be pieced out to compensate for the 
curve in the bottom at the stern. This is 
"done with 1-inch plank, cut out as shown 
in Fig. 1, and nailed for a good part of the 
way through to the main keel. It is fur- 
ther kept from twisting off by a brace of 
f or 1-inch half-round iron screwed to the 
stern piece, and into the end of the keel 
piece for the best part of its depth. The 
ends of this brace are forged with lugs turn- 
ing outward, and holes punched through 
them to catch the rudder hooks. Figs. 1 
and 4 show this construction. 
For stiffening the bottom and sides, first 
lay two oak battings, 1 by Ij inches, across 
ihe bottom, about 18 inches fore and aft of 
the middle. Lay these on their edges, and 
fasten from under side of bottom with 1^ 
inch screws. As shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, 
the sides are braced from these by oak 
knees cut from inch plank fastened from 
the outside. 
Probably the most common and certainly 
the most dangerous error of amateur boat 
builders is that of getting the seats too 
high. Rowing seats should not be higher 
than 6 inches nor broader than 8 inches. 
For this boat make them of three-quarter 
stuff, supported at their ends by props 
resting on the bottom of the boat. Fig. 1 
shows these in dotted lines, and they are 
also represented in Fig. 3. Never nail nar- 
row seats to the sides, or to cleats fastened 
to the sides, as either of these methods un- 
necessarily mutilates the shell of the boat, 
and is sure to bulge the sides and cause a 
leak. The stern seat may be an inch higher 
than the rowing seats, as the load upon this 
seat is supposed to be more stationary. 
The stern seat may be about 20 inches 
broad, and a space about 10 inches wide, 
should be left between it and the stern 
piece for the reception of sponge, lock, etc. 
As shown in the figures, the rowlocks are 
each rigged out about five inches; they are 
made of half -inch round iron, in two pieces, 
the first consisting of the rowlock brace, 
the ends of which are turned over the gun- 
wale into the inside of the boat, each end 
being fastened by quarter-inch bolts, two 
inches apart, passing through the side 
boards. The ends and top of the brace are 
flattened, and to the top is riveted the row- 
lock proper. If swivel rowlocks are pre- 
ferred, they may of course be dropped> into 
holes in the top of the braces, instead of 
being riveted. The rowlocks should be 
placed at about the widest part of the boat, 
and after they have been put in, the proper 
position of the rower's seat may be deter- 
mined, and a second seat put in position for 
a foot brace or stretcher. Use 8 or 8^ foot 
oars. 
The method of making the rudder and 
tiller is sufficiently evident from Figs. 1 and 
2. Regular rudder hooks may be purchased 
at a ship chandlery or hardware store. A 
