THE YOUNG SCIENTIST. 
97 
avoid tlie liability to splinter in handling. The 
material best adapted for this, and all drawing ' 
boards is well seasoned, clear, soft white pine. 
It is often convenient to have a drawer at- 
tached to the drawing board. This may be 
attained by putting hard wood battens or run- 
ners about 2 inches deep on the inside of the 
lower edges of the cleats. 
The construction of this kind of drawing 
board will be readily understood by reference 
to the drawing, and will be found preferable to 
all others. 
Veneering". 
The softest woods should be chosen for 
veneering upon. Hard wood can be veneered — 
boxwood with ivory, for instance; but wood 
that will warp and twist, such as cross-grained 
mahogany, must be avoided. 
The veneer, and the wood on which it is to 
be laid, must both be carefully prepared, the 
former by taking out all marks of the saw on 
both sides with a fine toothing plane, the lat- 
ter with a coarser toothing plane. If the veneer 
happens to be broken in doing this, it may be 
repaired at once with a bit of stiff paper glued 
upon it on the upper side. The veneer should 
be cut rather larger than the surface to be cov- 
ered; if much twisted, it may be damped and 
placed under a board and weight overnight. 
This saves much trouble; but with veneers 
that are cheap it is not worth while taking 
much trouble about refractory pieces. The 
wood to be veneered must now be sized with 
thin glue; the ordinary glue-pot will supply 
this by dipping the brush first into the glue, 
then into the boiling water in the outer vessel. 
This size must be allowed to dry before the 
veneer is laid. 
We will suppose now that the veneering pro- 
cess is about to commence. The glue in good 
condition, and boiling hot, the bench cleared, 
a basin of hot water with the veneering ham- 
mer and a sponge in it, a cloth or two, and 
everything in such position that one will not 
interfere with or be in the way of another. 
First, damp with hot water that side of the 
veneer which is not to be glued, then glue the 
other side. Second, go over, as quickly as pos- 
sible, the wood itself, previously toothed and 
sized. Third, bring the veneer rapidly to it, 
pressing it down with the outspread hands, 
and taking care that the edges of the veneer 
-overlap a little all round. Fourth, grasp the 
veneering hammer close to the pane (shaking 
off" the hot water from it) and the handle 
pointing away from you; wriggle it about, 
pressing it down stoutly, and squeezing the 
glue from the centre out at the edges. If it is 
a large piece of stuff" which is to be veneered, 
the assistance of a hot iron will be wanted to 
make the glue liquid again after it has set; but 
don't let it dry the wood underneath it, or it 
will burn the glue and scorch the veneer, and 
ruin the work. Fifth, having got out all the 
glue possible, search the surface for blisters, 
which will at once be betrayed by the sound 
they give when tapped with the handle of the 
hammer; the hot iron (or the inner vessel of 
the glue-pot itself, which often answers the 
purpose) must be applied, and the process 
with the hammer repeated. 
When the hammer is not in the hand, it 
should be in the hot water. The whole may 
now be sponged over with hot water, and wiped 
as dry as can be. And observe, throughout the 
above process, never have any slop and wet 
about the work that you can avoid. When- 
ever you use the sponge, squeeze it well first. 
Damp and heat are wanted, not wet and heat. 
It is a good thing to have the sponge in the 
left hand nearly all the time, ready to take up 
any moisture or squeezed-out glue from the 
front of the hammer.— Jbwr. of Applied Science. 
Clothes-Motlis, and How to Get Rid of 
Them. 
Prof. 0. V. KLley gives the following very 
interesting account of the clothes-moth, and 
indicates the best methods of killing them: 
The name clothes-moths is applied to sev- 
eral distinct but similar species of minute 
moths belonging to the family Tineidce, which, 
in their larval state, are very destructive to 
woollen goods, fur, skins, feathers and similar 
substances. Among them may be mentioned 
the clothes-moth {Tinea vestianella), the carpet 
moth ( T. tapetxella), the fur moth ( T. pelUon- 
ella), and the hair moth ( T. crinella). These 
TineidsB have slender bodies, and lanceolate, 
deeply-fringed wings that expand 6-lOths or 
8-lOths of an inch. The antennae and palpi 
are short and thread-like, and there is a thick 
orange or brown tuft on the forehead. The 
colors range from buff to drab and dark gray. 
The eggs are laid in May and June (the moth 
dying immediately afterwards), and hatch out 
I in fifteen days. The young worms at once pro- 
