THE YOUNG SCIENTIST. 
141 
of change produced is equally reuuirka- 
bie, althougli it leaves less permaneut 
traces beliiud. As a rule no decomposi- 
tion of organized matter takes ]:)lace, no 
death of plants or animals, without in- 
I'asorial life making its appearance, and 
disposing of no small portion of tne s|)oiJ». 
Even in our climate the mass ol fnatter 
thus annually affected is very large ; but 
what must it not be in moist tropical 
lands, v;here every particle seems alive, 
and tlie race of life and death goes on at 
II speed, and to an extent scarcely con- 
ceivable by those who have not wit- 
' iiessed it. 
Thus, if we look at the world of minute 
forms wliicli the microscope reveals, there 
0[)ens before us a s|)ectacle of boundless 
extent. We see life manifested by the 
specks of jelly containing particles not 
aggregated into structure, and we see it 
gradually ascending in complexity of or- 
ganization. In creatures whose habits 
and appearance seem most remote from 
our own, we find the elementary develo[)- 
ments of the organs and powers that con- 
stitute our glory, and give us our power. 
Such studies assist us to conceive of the 
universe as a Cosmos, or Beautifully Or- 
ganized Whole; and, although we cannot 
tell the object for which a single portion 
received its precise form, we trace every- 
wliere relations of structure to means of 
existence and enjoyment, and are led to 
the conviction that all the actions and ar- 
rangements of the organic or inorganic 
worlds are due to a definite direction and 
co-ordination of a few simple forces, 
which implicitly and unerringly obey the 
dictates of an Omniscient Mind. 
Simple Veneering with the Hammer. 
THE following directions for veneering, 
if strictly followed, will insure su(;cess 
in this important branch of mechanical 
work. 
The softest woods should be chosen. 
Perhaps the best for the purpose are those 
of perfectly straight grain and without a 
knot; of course don't attempt to veneer 
over a knot. Hard wood can be veneered, 
boxwood with ivory for instance, but wood 
that will warp and twist, such as cross- 
grained mahogany, tnust be avoided. The 
veneer and the wood on which it is to be 
laid must both be carefully prepared, the 
former by taking out all marks of the saw 
on both sides with a fine toothing plane, 
the latter with a coarser tootliing ]ilane 
If the veneer happens to be broken in do- 
ing this, it may be repaired at once with a 
bit of stiff paper, glued upon it on the 
upper side. The veneer should be cut 
rather larger than the surface to be 
covered; if much twisted it may be 
damped and placed under a board and 
weight over night. This saves some 
trouble, but with veneers that are cheap 
it is not worth while taking much trouble 
about refractory pieces. 
The wood to be veneered must now be 
sized with glue. The ordinary glue-pot 
will supply this by dipping the brush first 
into the glue, then into the boiling water 
in the outer vessel. This size must be 
allowed to dry before the veneer is laid 
on. We will suppose now that the veneer- 
ing process is about to commence; the 
glue in good condition and boiling hot, 
the bench cleared, a basin of hot water 
with the veneering hammer and a sponge 
in it, a cloth or two, and everything in 
position that one will not interfere with, 
or be in the way of another. 
First damp with hot water that side of 
the veneer which is not to be glued, then 
glue the other side. Secondly, go over as 
quickly as possible the wood itself, pre- 
viously toothed and sized. Thirdly, bring 
the veneer rapidly to it with the outspread 
liands, and taking care that the edges of 
the veneer overlap a little all round. 
Fourthly, grasp the veneering hammer 
close to the pene (shaking off the hot 
water from it) and the handle pointing 
away from you. Wriggle it about, press- 
ing the veneer down stoutly, and squeez- 
ing the glue from the miadle out at the 
edges. If it is a large piece of stuff which 
is to be veneered, the assistance of a hot 
iron will be wanted to make the glue 
liquid again after it has set; but do not 
let it dry the wood underneath it, or it 
will barn the glue and scorch the veneer, 
ruining the work. Fifthly, having got 
out all the glue possible, search the sur- 
face for blisters, wdiicli will at once be 
betrayed by the sound they give when 
tai)])ed with the handle of the hammer: 
the hot iron must be applied, or the inner 
vessel of the glue-pot itself, which often 
answers the purpose, and the process with 
the hammer repeated. When the hammer 
is not in the hand, it should be in the hot 
water. . The whole may now be sponged 
over with hot M^ater, and wiped as dry as 
can be. And observe, throughout the 
above process, never have any slop and 
wet about the work that you can avoid. 
Whenever you use the sponge, squeeze it 
well first. Damp and heat are wanted, 
not wet and heat. It is a good thing to 
have the sponge in tlie left hand nearly 
all the time, ready to take up any moisture 
or squeezed out glue from the front of the 
hammer. 
So much for laying veneers with the 
hammer, wliich, though a valuable tool, 
is not much used in the best cabinet- 
makers' shops, cauls being adopted in- 
stead. Cauls are made of wood, the shape 
and size of the surface to be veneered, or 
better still, of roded zinc plate, a^id being 
made very hot before a good blaze of 
sliavings, they are clamped down on the 
