THE TOUNG SCIENTIST. 
113 
doors ; cut the cross lines on surface 
neatly, finish with a simple brass key- 
plate over the lock, and be neat and 
careful in putting the lock in place. 
After putting together the case, fill with 
a good "wood-filler." I would suggest 
Wheeler's as being good, having used it, 
although others may be as good or even 
better. Follow this with a heavy coat of 
white shellac, which should be allowed to 
thoroughly harden. Then rub down 
smooth with emery cloth or good fine 
sand-paper; repeat this with a thinner 
coat, and rub lightly till a soft, even fin- 
ish is obtained. 
Sketch No. 1 shows the completed case. 
As will be seen, two neat brass hooks are 
suggested at the bottom, the use of which 
is obvious. 
By observing and following carefully 
directions and drawings as given here, 
any boy at all handy with tools should be 
able to put together this little case, which 
I feel sure he will find useful when com- 
pleted and put in place in his room. 
How to Make a Combination "Shoot- 
ing " Board for Amateur Work. 
HE common shooting board for 
making square joints, and ex- 
tremely handy for use in fitting 
drawer fronts to their respec- 
tive places, is too well known to need any 
description whatever. In like manner, it 
is needless to say anything about the 
common mitre shooting board, as this is 
about as familiar as the other. The ad- 
vantage claimed to be derived from the 
use of the tool about to be described is, 
that it combines the usefulness of both 
square and mitre shooting board in one, 
and is almost as simply and as easily 
made as either. A very crude form of 
this tool is shown by Fig. 1, and consists 
of two fixed blocks, one at right angles to 
the long edge of the board on which they 
are fixed, and the other at an angle of 
45 degrees. This simple contrivance is 
very useful for mitres on small mould- 
ings ; but if a piece of wood of any consid- 
erable width is required to be shot, the 
mitre block would be in the way; the 
width of the board which might be worked 
on this tool depending altogether upon 
the distance between the two fixed blocks. 
What is wanted, then, is a shooting board 
with a single block that will work both 
square and mitre joints, and perform 
either duty equally as well as a separate 
tool would do. The block must therefore 
of necessity be a movable one, and there 
are several methods whereby this desired 
end may be attained. The best of these 
Tig. 1. 
Tig. 2. 
methods is, in our estimation, the one in- 
dicated by Fig. 2, and which is the tool at 
present under notice. It is one which, 
while simple and inexpensive in construc- 
tion, and quite capable of performing the 
work both of a mitre and an ordinary 
shooting board, is yet very easily ad- 
justed, and is one which cannot get out 
of order. Without any further preface, 
we will proceed to describe the best 
method of manufacturing this tool. 
Procure a piece of wood about 2 ft. long, 
8 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. Plane this up, 
and upon it glue another piece, 24 in. by 
4 in., and I in. thick, so as to form a re- 
bate along one face. If the thicker wood 
can be obtained, cut a piece 24 in. by 8 in. 
and II in. thick, and take the rebate, 4 in. 
by I in., out of the solid wood. A section 
of this board is shown by Fig. 3. 
Tig. 3. 
Next cut out two pieces of wood, each 4 
in. long by II in. square. These are to be 
blocks, one of which is fixed as a guide to 
the other, which latter is movable. Clean 
