THE YOUNG 
SCIENTIST. 
381 
have often wished there might be some prepara- 
tion of this remedy a little more -eonvenient to 
use tljan the crude material. — Dr, S. 

In continuing this department, which has been found of 
so much value, we would remind our readers who wish for 
information on any of the arts and sciences, that they are 
cordially invited to make their wants known through this 
column, and those of them who can furnish accurate 
answers to questions asked are requested to send in replies. 
Doubtless many of our subscribers may know of methods, 
processes, or devices that may be better or more suitable for 
the particular case in question than anything generally 
known, and it is this reason that induces us to keep this de- 
partment open for a medium, where an interchange of ideas 
and practices may be made to the advantage ot all our 
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Communications should be sent in on or before the first or 
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next issue. 
Answers. 
152. Amateur.— In general nothing more is 
necessary, after ascertaining your joint is per- 
fectly sti-aight, and as is technically called, out 
of winding, than to glue both edges, with the 
glue quite hot, and rub them lengthways till the 
glae is nearly set, but not chilled; however, when 
your wood is spongy, or sucks up the glue, the 
following method will be advisable, as it 
strengthens the joint, and does away with the 
necessity of using the glue too thick, which 
should always be avoided, as the less glue there 
is between the joint, provided they touch one an- 
other, the better, and when the glue is thick, it 
sooner chills, and we cannot well rub it out from 
between the joints ; the method is to rub with a 
piece of soft chalk each joint on the edge, and 
wipe it off again with your finger, so that no 
lumps remain, and then glue it in the common 
way; it will be found to hold much faster, par- 
ticularly when the wood is porous, than when 
glued without the chalk.— Chip. 
153. Episcopalian.— The following explana- 
tions are, perhaps, all you will require: 
EMBLEMS OF GOD AND THE FATHER. 
1. " The Hand Issuing from the Clouds "—Repre- 
sented either entirely open, in the act of bestow- 
ing, or with fingers arranged according to the 
Greek or Roman gesture of benediction. 
2. " The Face, or Bust, in the Clouds "—Not 
used in modern times. 
3. " The Triangle "—Represented with the 
name of the Father, in Hebrew, in the centre, 
and surrounded by rays, the triangle symboliz- 
ing the Trinity, and the whole sometimes con- 
tained in the circle, the emblem of eternity. 
i. "The Flood of Light "—(Esek. viii. 2.) 
EMBLEMS OF GOD THE SON. 
5. •• The Fish "—The Greek word for flsh Hcthus) 
is composed of the initial letters of the Greek 
words which mean "Jesus Christ, Son of God. 
Saviour." The fish is one of the most ancient and 
most common Christian emblems, and has many 
significations, for which see below. 
6. "The Cross "—Christ's suffering; the hu- 
manity of Christ. 
7. "The Lamb"— This was the type of the 
Saviour in the Old Testament. See also John i. 28. 
Bearing a cross, or banner, called the Lamb of 
God. Represented with h. nimbus or aureole. 
8. " The Lion "— " The Lion of Judah." 
9. "The Vine." 
EMBLEMS OF THE HOLY SPIRIT. 
10. "The Dove"— The usual representation. 
11. ^' A Man, or a Child "-(Mediseval)— often 
shown accompanied by a dove. 
EMBLEMS OF THE TRINITY. 
12. " Three Triangles " 
13. " Three Circles "—Circles and triangles were 
often intermingled. 
14. " Three Human Beings," accompanied re- ' I 
spectively by the appropriate symbols of the . 
three persons of the Trinity. 
15. " Three Fishes." 
16. " Two Human Figures," with a Dove be- 
tween them. 
17. "The Father " holding by the cross-beam, 
a cross with the figure of Christ upon it, and a 
dove proceeding downwards from the lips of the 
Father. 
18. " The Trefoil or Clover-leaf."— Clericus. 
154. Kino.— Guinea-pigs must be kept very 
cleanly, else their places are apt to smell dis- 
agreeably. They are fond of changes of diet. Give 
oats or grain of some kind once a day, and bread 
soaked in milk; also an allowance of garden 
roots, cabbage, greens of any kind, or weeds, 
such as sowthistle, plaintain, etc. They ought 
to have water to drink.— Keeper. 
155. F. K.— A first-class violin has seventy 
separate parts. Two form the back, two the 
belly, six the blocks., six the sides, twelve the lin- 
ing, twenty-four the purfling, and there is the 
tail-pin, its peg and fastening, the tail-piece, the 
bass-bar and sound-post, the bridge, nut, head 
and scroll, the finger-board, and the four pegs 
and four strings. The body weighs about half a 
pound, with the neck and scroll about twenty 
ounces, and when tuned to pitch the pressure on 
the bridge is over ninety pounds.— Fiddler. 
156. Katie B.— Skins of all kinds can be 
dressed for making trimmings or muffs simply 
enough as follows: First, as to cleaning. 
Stretch the skin, feather, or fur downwards on a 
board, and tack it there ; then with a knife re- 
move every bit of flesh and fat, and scrape it 
well ; then rub over with alum and soda pounded 
together in a little water ; leave it to dry for a day 
or two, then scrape again and rub down with 
pumicestone to soften. A final dressing of alum 
alone will suffice to preserve it, and softening 
can only be performed by the application of 
elbow-grease. 
Try to obtain fresh skins, if the fur pulls out 
they are useless. Cut open the skin so as to get 
at all the fleshy parts, then get some soap-suds 
or rain water, and well soap them (care being 
taken in not having water too hot), let them lie 
for six hours in the water, then well rinse them 
in clean water, take off all fat and flesh that may- 
adhere to the skin. Then get some bran, and 
put some in the bottom of a pan, or tub, putting 
a layer of bran between each skin, then put cold 
water, till by pressing the bran on top of the 
skins you can see the water come through, let 
them stay for two days. Prepare a mixture of 3 
parts ground alum and L^part salt into a paste by 
adding cold Avater, and well rub into every part 
of the skin on the fleshy side, then make a 
wooden frame, and stretch the skin on it; let it^. i 
lie, hair downwards, for twelve hours, then go ' , 
over with the mixture again. Hang up to dry, 
if possible, where the sun can shine on them. 
Before they get quite dry, get a piece of pumice- 
stone and well rub the inside of the skin, and 
you will find that all the fleshy part will peel off, 
and leave the skin white, and if the pumice-stone 
is persevered with, Avill be perfectly pliable. If 
the skin should be an extra hard one, go over 
with the mixture again, adding a little more 
water, and finish again with pumice-stone. I 
have nearly a hundred skins made into rugs, 
which have been in use six years, and they are 
as good as ever they were. This is my own way 
of curing them perhaps some one of the reader's 
of the Young Scientist ma,y know of some 
quicker way. I cannot enlighten you in any- 
other way to make them soft, the principal thing 
