Chap. 11.] 
VAEIETIES OF SWEET WINE. 
249 
As to siraeum, by some known as ^'hepsema/' and which in 
our language is called " sapa,"^^ it is a product of art and not 
of iN'ature, being prepared from must boiled down to one-third : 
when must is boiled down to one-half only, we give it the 
name of defrutum." All these mixturies have been de- 
vised for the adulteration of honey. ^' As to those varieties 
which we have previously mentioned, their merits depend 
upon the grape, and the soil in which it is grown. Sext 
after the raisin-wine of Crete,^^ those of Cilicia and Africa are 
held in the highest esteem, both in Italy as well as the ad- 
joining provinces. It is well known that it is made of a grape 
to which the Greeks have given the name of stica," and which 
by us is called apiana it is also made of the scirpula.''^ 
The grapes are left on the vine to dry in the sun, or else are 
boiled in the dolium."^^ Some persons make this wine of the 
sweet and early white''^^ grape : they leave the grapes to 
dry in the sun, until they have lost pretty nearly half their 
weight, after which they crush them and subject them to a 
gentle pressure. They then draw off the juice, and add to 
the pulp that is left an equal quantity of well-water, the pro- 
duct of which is raisin- wine of second quality."^^ The more 
careful makers not only do this, but take care also after drying 
the grapes to remove the stalks, and then steep the raisins in 
wine of good quality until they swell, after which they press 
them. This kind of raisin- wine is preferred to all others : 
with the addition of water, they follow the same plan in 
making the wine of second quality. 
The liquor to which the Greeks give the name of aigleu- 
cos,"''* is of middle quality, between the sirops and what is 
properly called wine; with us it is called semper mustum."*^^ 
It is only made by using great precaution, and taking care 
that the must does not ferment such being the state of the 
66 This was evidently a kind of grape sirop, or grape jelly. "Rob" 
is perhaps, as Hardouin suggests, a not inappropriate name for it. 
When cold, they would have nearly the same consistency. 
68 The raisin wine of Crete was the most prized of all as a class. 
69 Mentioned in c. 4. Probably a muscatel grape. 
'0 See c. 4 of this Book. 
Or " vat." The common reading was oleo/' which would imply that 
they were plunged into boiling oil. Columella favours the latter reading, 
B. xii. c. 16. The reading is probably defective here. 
Passum secundarium. '^^ Or " always sweet." 
75 a Always must." ''6 Fervere, " boil," or effervesce." 
