ARRIVAL IN THE FOUTA COUNTRY. 99 
on the contrary, leading a sedentary life, have more wants ; 
they dread a long stay in these solitudes, where they cannot 
find any thing to eat. The JolofFs are in general great eaters ; 
they carry with them dry couscous, but it is not very nou- 
rishing ; I have tried it myself, when I have not been able to 
procure any other provisions. We were extremely desirous 
of soon reaching an inhabited country ; therefore, after 
reposing only just long enough to recruit our strength, we 
pursued our march. After travelling some leagues we saw a 
hare and some doves ; we were overjoyed at their appearance, 
for it indicated the vicinity of a village. In these deserts, 
as at sea, the traveller anxiously looks out for the least sign 
of an inhabited country. Our horses had a long time per- 
ceived it, and notwithstanding their fatigue, and our efforts 
to restrain them, they kept up a constant gallop. 
At seven in the evening we arrived at Bala, the first 
village of the Fouta country. No sooner had I entered with 
three men who would not quit me, than I was surrounded by 
a crowd of Poulas. For prudential reasons I would not alight 
from my horse ; but I was nevertheless groped and searched 
by these ragamuffins, who were much more dangerous than 
those at Coqué. Some wanted to lead me into their huts ; 
others seized the bridle of my horse to oblige me to enter ; these 
offered me milk, those examined my gun, and during all this 
tumult they stole unperceived by me the poniard which was 
at my side. Having at length made our ^vay through Bala, 
o 2 
