308 PASSAGE OF THE RIO GRANDE, 
cost me only two necklaces of glass beads, because I was con- 
sidered as the guest of Almamy of Timbo, whose authority 
extends to this place. The Rio Grande was very broad, and 
we had much difficulty in getting my ass across ; Boukari 
had tied him by the halter to the side of the canoe, fearing 
lest, fatigued by swimming, he might be drowned ; it is in 
this manner that the Moors make their beasts cross the largest 
rivers. The darkness of the night obliged us on disembarking, 
to light torches of straw for the purpose of proceeding to the 
village of a chief named Faran, to whom the canoe belonged. 
I was surprised to see houses built of stone, but as there is 
neither mortar nor cement of any kind in these structures, 
they frequently fall. We were obliged to remain on the 27th 
at the house of Faran, on account of the arrival of a caravan 
of Serracolets, who were returning loaded with European com- 
modities. Faran had exacted but a moderate gratuity for my 
passage ; on the other hand he laid these merchants under 
contribution, and obliged them, in spite of their remonstrances, 
to give him several pieces of European stuff, powder, bails 
and glass beads. This, in fact, is always the way in which 
the Serracolets are treated, in consequence of their reputed 
wealth; heavier duties are imposed on them than on other 
traders. Faran was too much engaged in extorting as much as 
possible from the Serracolets, to think of giving us any sup- 
per, and it was not till the next day that he granted me a guide. 
For three days I had felt all the pangs of hunger ; I not only 
