improvement has been made, and there are a goodly number now with fine stems, twelve 
to eighteen inches long, which hold the flower quite erect. And while the stem is under 
discussion, let me say that some of the weak-stemmed varieties, while useless as a cut 
flower, are yet very valuable for garden plants. The drooping stem permits the flower to 
swing free of the plant, and when combined with the dark green foliage presents a picture 
of wonderful grace not seen in the more erect-growing plants. 
The Dahlia has always been notorious for sportive habits, and many and curious 
are the freaks to be seen. This is not only true of variegated varieties, but often appear- 
ing among varieties supposed to be quite staid and fixed in their colors. Some of the 
fancy varieties are very popular because of this wide variance in color, which keeps the 
grower guessing what is coming next. But while sports are common as stated above, yet 
all attempts to fix a sport into a new variety have been fruitless, for sooner or later they 
return to the parent color. 
The Dahlia is a native of Central America and Southern Mexico, where it grows 
wild upon the meadows and table lands to an altitude of 1 0,000 feet. 
SOIL AND LOCATION. 
The Dahlia loves an open, sunny situation and for convenience and ease in cultiva- 
tion a rich mellow soil is preferable. The Dahlia, however, possesses a happy, easy-going 
disposition, and readily adapts itself to almost any soil or situation, except dense shade 
and wet, sour soil. So, with these exceptions, I may say that soil at hand will do, if 
reasonable judgment be used in its preparation and the cultivation which is to follow. I 
have customers variously situated, from a few feet above sea level to an altitude of 8,500 
feet; some on clear sand; some on loam and some on the heaviest of clay; yet all report 
the Dahlia as doing finely. The grower should remember that cultivation is first in 
importance and location second, for without proper and thorough cultivation failure is 
inevitable. I now recall a complaint from a customer of an order that was unsatisfactory. 
It developed that she had dug the holes for the tubers in a heavy sod with the end of 
her parasol. 
Having selected the location for planting, it should be thoroughly prepared by dig- 
ging — the deeper the better — and if this work can be done in the fall it will be in better 
condition for spring planting. 
FERTILIZER. 
If the soil is poor a little well-rotted manure should be worked in at the time of 
digging or plowing. On the question of fertilizer good judgment must be exercised or the 
ends most desired may be defeated. My experience on the question of fertilizer is widely 
at variance with the views and opinions commonly held. 
I have seen many Dahlias ruined by over-fertilizing. Heavy fertilizing produces 
a rank, sappy growth of foliage and gives the plant no time to think of flowers, or if they 
are produced at all they are small and inferior blooms, both in form and color. Another 
evil follows from the same condition. The dense, heavy growth of foliage becomes a 
harbor and breeding place for insect pests that feed upon the young, sappy growth and 
buds. But, as stated above, judgment must be used and fertilizer, also, if the soil is 
poor or if Dahlias have been grown for several years in the same location. 
As to kinds of fertilizer and the amount to be used, judgment must govern again. 
If the soil is capable of producing rank growths of weeds, little if any fertilizer is needed. 
