will permit of no root action there. Nature, however, will provide roots and they will start 
from the lower end of the tuber. (See illustration.) The result will be a new stalk draw- 
ing its strength through an old tuber, which nature will begin to form as near as possible 
into the fibery growth of a stalk. This condition will seriously handicap the plant foi 
its best work. 
If green plants (those grown from cuttings) are to be set the process is simple. Set 
the plants about four inches deep, pressing the soil gently around the roots or ball of 
earth if the plants are turned from a pot. If the soil is somewhat dry, use one quart of 
water to each plant, and then cover the wet surface with a little dry soil. Green plants 
should be shaded for a day or two if the weather is clear. 
DISTANCE TO PLANT. 
The proper distance for setting is the same for both tubers and plants, and should 
be not less than 3x4 feet for blooming purposes, if planted in a bed, or 2'/2 to 3 feet, if 
in a single row. The aim in distance should be to leave space enough to get around 
each plant for cutting blooms and trimming off the old and faded ones (a work which 
must not be neglected). Where too much space is given it stimulates a growth of heavy 
side branches which often break of their own weight, rendering the plant unsightly. 
As stated above, these distances are for blooming purposes. In commercial nurseries 
where they are grown for their tubers they may be grown much closer. Excellent crops 
of tubers may be grown planted 1 by 3 feet. 
f all growing varieties may be dwarfed to a considerable extent by pinching the 
top from the plant when six inches high. 
The same general rules will govern for both tubers and green plants, as to distance 
and culture. 
TIME TO PLANT. 
This, of course, must be governed by season and location. Tubers may be planted 
much earlier than green plants, and both should be planted as early as safe. In planting 
tubers it is not necessary to wait until frost is past, as there will be a delay of about twenty 
days between the time of planting and the appearance of the plant above the ground. 
So, if frost in a given locality comes as late as May 15, the tubers may be safely planted 
May 1 , which is the proper time for planting here. There is a long season, however, in 
which both tubers and plants may be planted. I have planted dry tubers as late as June 
20 with good results. Earlier planting, however, is desirable, as it gives a longer season 
of bloom and the tubers become better matured. Green plants must not be set until all 
danger of frost is past. 
WATERING. 
This question in Dahlia culture is of primary importance. The Dahlia is quick to 
/esent extremes of either wet or dry. so the happy medium must be sought. If permitted 
to get too dry there is danger of not only stunting the growth, but of getting the plants 
infested with red spider. This insect is very injurious and extremely hard to get rid of. 
Bad as the results may be from neglect in watering, it is no worse, if as bad, as the com- 
mon error of ever-watering. Many people drench their Dahlias daily with water, whether 
they need it or not, and then write to know why their plants grow so tall and have so few 
blooms. 
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