the two lower leaves and the cutting is ready for the propagation bench, which should 
have a bottom temperature of 65 to 70 degrees. There should be a convenience for shading 
the new cuttings from the direct sun's rays and a good supply of fresh air without strong 
drafts. As to the material in which to root these cuttings, there are different opinions. 
Some say clear, sharp sand; some loam mixed with sand; some leaf mold; others, again, 
advise putting the cuttings direct into small pots for rooting. I prefer a sand loam. But 
all agree that there should be no manure in the rooting material. 
Cuttings should begin to root in from fifteen to twenty days, and should be potted 
off just as soon as the roots appear, moving from time to time to larger pots, or, if rooted 
late in the season, they may be transferred direct to the garden or nursery. Throughout 
the entire process of propagation from cuttings the greatest care must be used in labeling 
or the stock will get mixed and cause a deal of trouble. 
Seed. 
This is the easiest of methods but not the most satisfactory, as a large percentage 
of the seedlings are decidedly inferior to the parent plant. But occasionally there is 
something developed that is superior and really good, and when we recall the fact that 
all the fine varieties which we now have were once chance seedlings, it should stimulate 
our hopes, even though we are disappointed with results. The wide range of color is 
another interesting feature of seedling culture. In a hundred seedlings there will be little 
chance of finding two alike, except in the single varieties. Here red, yellow and purple 
are common colors. To grow good seedlings the work should be begun the previous 
year in gathering a supply of seed from the best plants possible. All Dahlias do not 
produce seed. Densely double varieties rarely have seed, but a fully double variety, when 
at its prime, will often show a small, yellow center as it fades, and from these some seed 
can be gathered. Single and semi-double varieties produce an abundance of seed. 
Start the seed in shallow boxes in March and transplant as often as necessary to 
provide growing room for the plants. They will come into bloom almost as soon as the 
tubers or plants. 
Where space is limited, I would recommend planting only the best of named 
varieties, but where there is ample space the seedlings will amply repay all labor bestowed. 
INSECT PESTS. 
There are a number of insects which feed upon the Dahlia, most of which are known 
as sucking insects; that is to say, they feed by means of a beak, which they thrust into 
the bud or growing branch and suck the sap. Such insects are the most difficult to handle, 
as their method of feeding renders them immune to poisons usually applied. The most 
troublesome insect which preys upon the Dahlia is the tarnished plant bug (Lygus Pra- 
tensis). This insect in adult form is slightly smaller than the common house fly. Its 
wings are closely folded under glossy shields. Another distinctive feature is the marking 
of a perfect triangle between the shoulders. The beak, which is nearly one-half the length 
of the body, is carried folded upon the breast. This insect feeds upon the buds when 
they are quite small, and also the young shoots. These wounds are fatal to the bud, and 
sometimes to the shoot, also. It is a very shy insect and moves to the back side of a bud 
or branch when approached. The young of this insect is green in color and more rounded 
in form. 
Another troublesome insect is the red spider. This is a very small insect which 
lives and operates chiefly on the under side of the leaf, sucking the sap and causing the 
It 
