leaf to turn yellow and die. It multiplies very rapidly, so it should be attended to as 
soon as its presence is known. It has no special liking for the Dahlia above other plants, 
but IS the common enemy of a great number of plants, shrubs and vines. If it has a 
special liking for any plant I think it m.ust be the sweet pea, as the brown foliage of that 
popular flower so often bears evidence. Where Dahlias are infected with this insect it is 
nearly always with those plants which were started into growth in a greenhouse. Dry 
tubers planted in the open ground are not apt to be attacked by red spider. The name 
red spider is appropriate, as descriptive of this insect only in its mature adult stage. In 
Its early life and growing period, it is semi-transparent and quite light in color, changing 
to bright red at maturity. This insect cannot stand cold water, therefore if the hose be 
freely used in the evening, throwing the water with force against the under side of the 
leaves, a few applications will usually hold them in check. Where this is not practical, 
cut off the infested plant carefully and carry it out or burn it. These insects are trouble- 
some only at times, some years scarcely making their presence known. 
Remedial measures are best found in clean cultivation and a healthy, vigorous 
growth of the plants. I have treated these two insects at some length, as past experience 
has demonstrated that they have caused much of the trouble among growers. 
WINTER STORAGE. 
As soon as convenient after frost has killed the foliage, cut the stalks about two 
inches above the ground, and then dig the roots carefully. A spading fork is the handiest 
tool for this work. The roots of the different varieties vary greatly in form. Some are 
compact and therefore easy to dig and handle; others have long, spreading roots with 
thin, weakly necks. Such roots are not easily handled, and more or less loss is inevitable, 
for they break at the neck of their own weight. The soil is best removed from the roots 
by lifting them slightly and with a hammer or other instrument rap on the end of the stalk. 
This will jar the soil free of the roots. They are then ready to label and pack away. In 
labeling it is better to use a painted label or the writing may be illegible in the spring. As 
to receptacles for these roots, use whatever is most convenient. Barrels are very con- 
venient, but boxes will serve the same purpose. In packing turn the clump of roots upside 
down so that any water or juice that has accumulated in the stalk may run out. Each 
barrel or box should be left with sufficient room on the top for a covering of leaves or 
moss. 1 his is not alwavs necessary, but is a good precaution against mold or an atmo- 
sphere that is too dry. Sand makes a good packing material, but is too heavy to use in 
large packages. Commercial growers have cellars of special construction for this purpose, 
where packing material is not necessary. 
Where cellar room is not available or is rendered unfit by reason of a furnace, an 
outdoor pit makes a good place for storage. The pit must be located where no water 
will get into it and ample covering to exclude the frost must be provided. 
VARIETIES TO PLANT. 
This question I leave open to the public taste. To recommend a list might prove 
more of a hindrance than a help. New and better varieties are coming each year; and 
then, again, a variety good in one locality may be very inferior in another. Some sug- 
gestions, however, in a general way may not be out of place. Procure the best varieties 
possible. rhey require no more space or care than the poor ones. Deal only with 
reliable dealers. Don't plant too many varieties. Aim at quality rather than quantity. 
12 
