two pair of leaves, cut the shoots with a sharp knife just below the lower pair. Remove 
the two lower leaves and the cutting is ready for the propagation bench which should 
have a bottom temperature of 65 to 70 degrees. There should be a convenience for shad- 
ing the new cuttings from the direct sun's rays and a good supply of fresh air without 
strong drafts. 
As to the material in which to root these cuttings, there are different opinions. Some 
say, clear, sharp sand, some loam mixed with sand; some leafmold; others again advise 
putting the cuttings direct into small pots for rooting. Sand however, is probably the 
better material. All agree that there should be no manure in the rooting material. 
Cuttings should begin to root in from fifteen to twenty days, and should be potted 
off just as soon as the roots appear, moving from time to time to larger pots, or, if rooted 
late in the season, they may be transferred direct to the open garden or nursery. Through- 
out the entire process of propagation from cuttings, the greatest care must be used in label- 
ing, or the stock will get mixed and cause a deal of trouble. 
BY SEED. 
This is the easiest method, but not the most satisfactory, as a large percentage of 
the seedlings are decidedly inferior to the parent plant. But occasionally, there is some- 
thing developed that is superior and really good, and when we recall the fact that all the 
fine varieties which we now have, were once seedhngs, it should stimulate our hopes, even 
though we are disappointed with the results. The wide range of color is another interest- 
ing feature of seedling culture. In one hundred seedlings there will be httle chance of 
finding two alike except in the single varieties. Here, red, yellow and purple are com- 
mon colors. 
To grow good seedlings, the work should begin the previous year, in gathering a 
supply of seed from the best plants possible. Not all Dahlias produce seed. Densely 
double varieties rarely have seed, but a fully double variety will often show a small, yellow 
center, as it fades, and from these some seed can be gathered. Single and semi-double 
varieties produce an abundance of seed. 
Start the seed in shallow boxes in March and transplant as often as necessary to 
provide growing space for the plants. They will come into bloom almost as soon as the 
tubers or plants from cuttings. 
If a new seedling remains constant for two or three years, it is reasonably certain 
to count on its character being fixed. Inferior seedlings should not be given further trial. 
Where space is limited, only the best of named varieties should be planted; but 
where there is ample space, the seedlings will prove very interesting, and amply repay all 
labor bestowed. 
INSECT PESTS. 
There are a number of insects which feed upon the Dahlia, most of which are known 
as sucking insects, that is to say, they feed by means of a beak which they thrust into the 
bud or growing branch and suck the sap. Such insects are difficult to handle as their 
method of feeding renders them immune to the poisons usually applied. The most trouble- 
some of these insects which prays upon the Dahlia, is the tarnished plant bug (Lygus Pra- 
tensis). This insect in adult form, is slightly smaller than the common house fly. Its 
wings are clcsely folded over glossy shields. A distinctive feature of this insect is a per- 
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