feet triangle between the shoulders. The beak, which is nearly one half the length of the 
body, is carried folded on the breast. This insect feeds upon the buds when they are 
quite small and also the young shoots. These wounds are fatal to the bud and sometimes 
to the shoot also. It is a very shy insect and moves to the back side of a bud or branch 
when approached. The young of this insect is green in color and more rounded in its 
form. This insect is the cause of many plants failing to bloom, and is by far, the worst 
enemy of the Dahlia. 
Another troublesome insect is the red spider. This is a very small insect which lives 
and operates chiefly on the under side of the leaf, sucking the sap and causing the leaf to 
turn yellow and die. It multiplies very rapidly, so should be attended to as soon as its 
presence is known. It has no special liking for the Damlia above other plants, but is a 
common enemy of a great number of plants, shrubs and vines. It has a special liking for 
the sweet pea, as the brown foliage of that popular flower often bears evidence. Where 
Dahlias are infected with this insect, it is nearly always with those plants which were 
started into growth in a green house. Dry tubers planted in the open ground are not 
apt to be attacked by red spider. 
The name red spider is appropriate as descriptive of this insect, only in its mature 
stage. In its early life and growing period it is semi-transparent and quite light in color, 
changing to bright red at maturity. This insect cannot stand cold water, therefore if the 
hose be used freely in the evening, throwing the water with force against the under side of 
the leaves, a few applications will usually hold them in check. 
Where this is not practical, cut off the infested leaves or plants, and burn them. 
These insects are troublesome only at times, some years scarcely making their presence 
known. 
The red spider should not be confused with the red aphis. It is much smaller. 
Remedial measurers are best found in clean cultivation and a healthy, vigorous 
growth of the plants. These two insects are treated at some length, as past experience 
has demonstrated that they have caused much of the trouble among growers. In some 
localities a borer that works in the stem has proven quite troublesome. 
WINTER STORAGE. 
As soon as convenient after frost has killed the foliage, cut the stalks off at the sur- 
face of the ground, then dig the roots carefully. A spading fork is the handiest tool for 
this work. The roots of the different varieties vary greatly in form. Some are compact 
and therefore easy to dig and handle; others have long, spreading roots with thin, weakly 
necks. Such varieties are not easily handled and more or less loss is inevitable for they 
break at the neck of their own weight. The soil is best removed from the roots by lift- 
ing them slightly and with the hammer or other instrument, rap on the end of the stalk. 
This will jar the soil free of the roots. (The digging should not be attempted while the 
ground is wet). They are then ready to label and pack away. In labeling, it is better 
to use a painted label, or the writing may be illegible in the spring. Paper labeling should 
never be practiced. Paper makes a convenient material for mice nests and thus the name 
may be lost. 
As to receptacles for these roots; use whatever is most convenient. Barrels are very 
convenient, but boxes will serve the same purpose. In packing, turn the clumps of roots 
upside down, so that any water or juice that has accumulated in the stalk may run out. 
Each barrel or box should be left with sufficient room on top for a covering of leaves or 
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