June 8, 1901.] 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
481 
officers. Next aft comes the galley, which extends the 
full width of the vessel, which is fitted with a large range, 
sink with hot and cold water, dressers, dish lockers, etc. 
Next aft comes the engine and boiler space. Following 
the engine space aft is the owner's bath and toilet room. 
The owner's and guests' staterooms are large and are 
fitted with every convenience. The main saloon is very 
roomy and is reached from the after deck house by a 
stairway. Triple expansion engines and Seabury water- 
tube boilers furnish the motive power. Her builders 
guarantee a speed of eighteen miles an hour. The j^acht 
will be lighted by electricity and will carry a naphtha 
launch and three other boats. 
^ 
The new steam yacht Hope, which was launched re- 
cently from the yard of the Gas Engine & Power Co. and 
Charles L. Seabury & Co., for Mr. Guy Norman, has had 
her trial trip. The contract called for a five-hour trial, 
and she was to make twelve miles an hour consecutively. 
She made sixty-one knots in the five hours under natural 
draft. 
^ 
Mr. Joseph M. Doggett, of the Larchmont Y. C. has 
bought the sloop Ludeah from Mr. J. Montgomery Sears, 
through the Gas Engine & Power Co. Ludeah will be 
raced against Mira and Hebe. She was too large for Mr. 
Sears' use at Bar Harbor, and he is having the Gas En- 
gine & Power Co. build for him a knockabout that is to 
conform to the Bar Harbor Y. R. A. rules. The new 
boat is planked and is nearing completion. 
^ ^ ^ 
The new 4.t;ft. steam launch General Mitchell, built by 
the Gas Engine & Power Co. and Seabury & Co. for 
the use of Gen. John R. Brooke, at Governor's Island, has 
had her official trial in the lower bay and has .been ac- 
cepted. The guaranteed speed \Vas eleven miles an hour. 
4^ 
The auxiliary yacht building at Morris Heights from 
designs made by the Gas Engine & Power Co. is owned 
by Mr. R. W. Gumming, of Newark, N. J. She is 76ft. 
long over all, 52ft. on the waterline. T7ft. beam and will 
draw 7ft. 6in. Mr. Colgate Hoyt has purchased a 40ft. 
cabin naphtha launch from the Gas Engine & Power Co. 
The English-built steam yacht Sagitta. which has been 
chartered by Mr. Joseph DcLamar. arrived . from 
Southampton at New York on May 2f. She is 563 tons 
Thames measurement, and can steam thirteen knots. She 
left Southampton on Maj^ 10, and St. Michaels, where she 
stopped for coal, on May 18. 
•? « 
The auxiliary schooner Diana has been purchased bj 
Mr. F. C. Penfield, N. Y. Y. C. 
Jfo 
Invader, the Canada cup challenger, was launched ai 
Oakville, Canada, on May 27. The boat is 27ft. 6in. o; 
the waterline, 9ft. Sin. beam and draws 6ft. She carric 
1,485 sq. ft. of sail. 
*S it 
The Milwaukee yacht Orion, built to defend the Canada 
cup, was launched on June i. She is 43ft. over all, 27ft. 
on the waterline, 9ft. 6in. beam and 6ft. 6in. draft. The 
mainsail contains 967 sq. ft., staysail 240 sq. ft. 
J? ^ 1^ 
The steam yacht Nymph, recently purchased by Mr. F. 
S. Brown, of Philadelphia, ran on the Point Abino Rocks 
near Buffalo and is a complete loss. The boat struck the 
rocks during a dense fog. She was looft. over all and was 
valued at $10,000. 
The schooner yacht Endymion, built for the late George 
Lord Day. has been sold to Mr. George J. Lauder, of 
Pittsburg, Pa. Mr. Lauder will sail on June 22 in her for 
Scotland. 
\ I? >t *^ 
Mr. Edward Kelly's 51-footer Huguenot, recently built 
by Harry Huntington, is now hauled out at the Jacob 
yard at City Island having her fin fi.xed in place. She 
will race in the Larchmont regatta on June 15 for the 
first time. 
*S •? 
Mr. C. C. Iselin has chartered the English steam yacht 
Christabel for the America Cup races. 
at 
The steam yacht Rival has been sold by Mr. F. J. Root 
through the agency of Mr. A. J. Mcintosh to Mr. TTurner 
A. Beall, of New York. 
The steam yacht Akela has been sold by Mr. W. H. 
■Ames, of Boston, to Mr. Winslow S. Pierce, of New York. 
a? It 
The English steam yacht Sybarita. owned by Whitaker 
Wright and chartered by George J. Gould, arrived at 
New York on June 3. 
Winthrop Y. C mi | 
Saturday, June i. 
The second race of the Winthrop Y. C. was sailed on 
Saturday aftr^rnoon. June i. in a puffy breeze from the 
northwest. In the first class LTdeal carried away her mast 
and the race was won by the Hanley cat, Thordis. Priva- 
teer again had an easy time of it in the 21-footers. In the 
18- footers Delia won handily. The following is the sum- 
mar)' : 
25ft. Class— Start, 4:00. 
Finish. 
Thordis. W. Foster 5 10 40 
Alert, B. Ridgeway 5 21 24 
21ft. Class— Stait, 4:05. 
Privateer, J. McConnell 5 18 10 
Ruth, A. S. Richards : 5 03 
18ft. Class— Start, 4:10. 
Delia. C. H. Kelly .....4 57 21 
Hector, A. W. Hubbard 5 00 25 
Louise, W. D. Allen 5 0100 
Thelma, E. K. Tewksbury 5 02 07 
Martha, W- JenMns,,,,,.. ...5.06 07 
John B. Kilmsi^, 
Small Yacht Construction and 
Rigging. 
BY LINTON HOPE. 
Chapter III.— Laying Off, Making the Moulds and Setticg 
> Up the Frame (Continued). 
It is easier to fit the rudder trunk, or case, now than after the 
boat is planked, as would be the case with larger craft, and this is 
made like a box, with two lin. maiiogany or Kaurie pine planks on 
each side of the sternpost, with a l%in. centerpiece on tlie after 
side. The latter is rabbeted into the two sides, and' all three are 
rabbeted into the counter frame. 
All the joints, like the scarphs of the stem and sternpost, etc., 
must be well fitted and painted with thick red and white lead 
before bolting together. 
Both boats' keels and frames are now ready to set up, but they 
will be treated in different ways, as the centerboarder will be built 
bottom up, and the keel boat keel downward. 
Starting with the centerboarder, draw a central chalk line on the 
floor and mark all the sections out, then set up the midship 
section exactly square with the central line, so that the keel will be 
about 2ft. above it, using the plumb line to make sure the center 
line of the mould is vertical and right over the line on the floor. 
Fix the mould in -place with a center post, which should be fixed 
to the mould so that one edge is on the center line. This post 
must be nailed to a cleat on the floor and well stayed fore and aft 
to keep it in a vertical position. Two side posts will be necessary 
to keep the mould level. 
Fig 9. 
The exact distance apart from center to center of the moulds 
ihould now be checked along the center floor line, and the height 
if the L.VV.L. on the midship mould noted, as all the other moulds 
nust be leveled to this height above the floor. They will all be 
iet up in the foregoing manner, and well stayed fore and aft, so that 
they are all square with the center floor line, and their vertical 
center lines plumb and L.W.L.'s level. This is a long and tedious 
business, but on its accuracy all the rest of the work depends, so 
do not spare a little extra care and time over it, and fix them 
so that they will not move when you come to work on them. 
[ would advise working to the fore edge of the moulds forward 
of and including the midship section, and to the after edge of 
the others— that is to say, place the forward moulds so that the 
mark for their places on the central floor line comes just on the 
fore side of each, and on the after side of the after moulds. The 
object of this is to avoid beyels on the edges of the moulds, which 
would be required if the center of each were taken instead of the 
edge, as shown by the sketch. 
The moulds for the keel boat will not be set up first, but after 
the keel and frame are set up in place on the stocks, and fixed by 
shores and stays from the roof and walls. The stocks are best 
made from a 3in. by 9in. deal on edge, firmly fixed to the floor 
at exactly the same angle as the keel. 
When the frame is fixed, a clear center line must be marked 
along keel, stem, sternpost and counter frame, and the stations for 
the moulds marked on it in the same manner as on the floor line in 
the case of the centerboard boat. The moulds can now be set up 
as before, except that they are now right way up and stayed from 
the roof, or if that is too high a fore and aft Sin. by Sin. deal 
nu'st be fixed from stem to stern, and well secured to the roof and 
walls, and the moulds stayed from that. 
WHien the moulds are all fixed square and plumb in their proper 
pl::ces, and the sheer batten on, the next job is to cut the rabbet. 
Chapter IV.— Cutting the Rabbet and Fairing the Moulds. 
It is a common, practice for professional builders to cut most of 
the rabbet of centerboard boats before the keel and stem are set up 
in place, as it is much easier to get at the work when they are in 
separate pieces, which can be easily moved into the most con- 
venient positions for working. 
This method, however, requires considerable knowledge of the 
trade before it can safely be attempted; and, though entailing more 
work, it is consequently much safer for the amateur t® cut the 
rabbet after the whole frame is set up and properly fixed in its 
place, as in this case he can easily see the exact angles required at 
each section of the rabbet. ' 
Before starting on the rabbet, a gauge must be, cut out of a 
small piece of hardwood, about 2in. long, lin. wide and %in. 
thick. One edge, A-B, must be carefully planed up, and one 
end correctly squared to it, and marked off to the exact thickness 
of the planking — B-C. 
6-C 
Fig. 13. 
The use of this gauge is t'o ascertain the proper depth to cut 
the rabbet at any part, and also to see if the inner angle is correct, 
the side A-B being placed on tlte flat of the rabbet, thus; 
B, C — Thickness of plank. 
Fig. 131/2. 
and the square end, B-C, showing the proper depth and angle. 
This gauge should be kept in a convenient pocket, so as to try 
the rabbet continually while it is being cut. In addition to this 
gauge, a strip of American elm ViVa. by %in. in section, and 
3 or 4ft. long, should be used to bend around each mould to 
show the angle of the back of the rabbet, with the side of the keel 
or stem, which must be a continuation of the curve of the mould. 
Having prepared the gauge and the batten, set off the rabbet 
line on the keel and stem at each mould, taking the proper posi- 
tion of the lower edge of the rabbet, X from the sheer and half 
breadth plans at each station. This varies very much in the two 
types of boats now under consideration; as in the centerboarder, 
No. 1, the rabbet is underneath the keel, while in the keel boat, 
No. 2, it is on the side. 
The only safe way to get it correct is to make a careful sectional 
drawing of the keel or stem at each station, and niark the rabbet 
line X on the keel and stem at those points as already stated, 
rj/\n £7^ AfiM///>f jy/mr c^fr//^- 
Fig. 10. 
Check the squaring of the moulds by measuring from the center 
of the stem to the outside of the first mould at the sheer level on 
each side, and see they are the same; then do this between each 
pair of moulds till all are exact. 
The moulds are now ready for the keel to be bent over them and 
screwed to each, when it is seen to be correct and fair to the 
curve of the drawing, and the stem and transom must then be 
stayed in a similar manner to the moulds, squaring and plumbing 
from the central floor line as before, and a line should be stretched 
through all the moulds at the L.W.L., and carefully leveled. A 
sheer batten should be nailed round the moulds at the deck level 
to fair them and hold them all in place while the rabbet is cut. 
drawing a fair line through the spots, and cutting a few inches of 
the rabbet at each of these places, taking care to follow the curve' 
of the mould, and not to cut quite to the full depth; the accom- 
panying sketch will show how- this is done at the moulds 1 and 2. 
When a section of the rabbet is cut at each of the moulds, take a 
stiff batten about 12ft. long and tack it over the moulds, so that 
the fore end just touches the rabbet line on the stem at the deck 
level under the sheer batten; now cut a bit of the rabbet in the 
same way as before, letting the end of the batten into the stem to 
the depth of the rabbet, a-s shown by the rabbet gauge. 
Repeat this about every 6in. down the stem and fore end 
of the keel till the first mould is reached, taking care that the 
