474 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
[June is, 1901. 
FiG. 16.-STERN FRAME OF NO. 2 BOAT, SHOWING RABBET AND RIBBANDS; RUDDER, TRUNK AND INTER- MEDIATE MOULDS OMITTED. 
Second Class — Start, 3:10. 
Serapis, Edwin Bonsack .......5 15 00 
Tib and Mainsail Class — Start, 3:15. 
Fiona, J. H. Hillman 5 10 00 
Pumpkin, J. Frislimuth 5 35 00 
Kaloola, H. W. Emmons Withdrew. 
Fiona failed to finisli inside of buoy and lost race. 
Mosquito Boats— Start, 3:20. 
No. 11, A. Cook , 5 00 00 
No. 2, C. M. Biddle, Jr 5 01 00 
No. 14, H. Walnut 5 05 00 
No. 1, S. Solomon 5 07 00 
No. 14 lost first place by finishing outside of buoy. 
2 05 00 
1 55 00 
2 20 00 
1 40 00 
1 41 00 
1 45 00 
1 47 00 
and then at the other, and try to see if the fault is not at some 
other mould which is either too small or too large. 
Also see if the ribband is pinned — that is to say, fastened at the 
ends so that it is forced into a greater curve than that required by 
the moulds, as this should not occur unless a very sudden curve 
is needed, as in the fore ends of the upper ribbands. Each rib- 
band should be pulled toward the ends of the boat before it is 
fastened, and should be fastened first to the mid section and then 
successively to each of the moulds till the ends are reached. 
Do not attempt to start timbering till you have got the moulds, 
ribbands and- rabbet thoroughly fair, the latter being cut to its 
almost in the form of a fan from the stem scarph to the deck. 
In boats with an easy curve of stem and deck line like No. 2 this 
is not very apparent, but it is there to some extent, and must be 
allowed for in spacing. 
As the heels of the timbers are to be let into the keel, a small 
joggle or notch is cut in the top of the rabbet for each timber to 
fit into; and to get these joggles the right width and depth a 
simple way is to get two cheap dovetail saws about 6 or 7in. 
long, set in straight handles, and knock the handle off one. Now 
get a %in. hole drilled through both ends of each of the blades 
and screw them side by side, with a pair of %in. gutter bolts, 
sra p 
Small Yacht Construction and 
Rigging. 
BY LINTON HOPE. 
Chapter IV,— Cutting the Rabbet and Fairing the Moulds 
(Continued). 
The most difficult parts to cut are where the rabbet turns from 
tlie under side of the keel to the side of*the stem in No. 1, and 
where it runs ofif the sternpest on to the counter frame in No. 2 
(see sketch). In each of these cases the only way is to cut plenty 
of small sections as before, and continually try the rabbet gauge 
and battens, using the large batten at various angles over the 
moulds, so as to fair the rabbet in all directions. As tlae planking 
will run past the transom in both boats, all that need be done here 
is to cut the transom nearly to shape, and fit the joint between 
l)lank~and transom as each plank goes on. 
I have, perhaps, put the cart before the horse in dealing with the 
rabbet' before explaining the method of fairing the moulds by 
means of ribbands or battens; but it is usual to cut the rabbet 
roughly to nearly its full depth,- and then to fair up the moulds 
before finishing oE the rabbet. 
0f A/C H 
FIG. 19.-METHOD OF HOLDING TIMBERS FOR PLANING. 
full depth and finished, as once the timbers are in place it will 
be difficult to make more than very slight alterations in either 
moulds or rabbet. 
v.— Timbering and Planking. 
When choosing_ the American elm for the timbers (or ribs), sec 
that it is white in color, close-grained, and free from shakes or 
knots. Get it cut at a saw mill, so that it is in convenient lengths, 
say a foot or 18in. longer than the lengths required for the longest 
timber, and l-16in. over the moulding and siding given in the 
Hpecification to allow for planing up. By having the wood cut 
in planks and planed up to the exact thickness of the timbers, and 
then sawn into the proper widths, you can save the" labor of 
FIG. 17.-METI10D OF FAIRING MOULDS AND STEM RABBET. 
This fairing is done by nailing over the moulds six or eight 
long ribbands of Oregon pine, or other suitable wood, clear of 
knots, and at least as long as the boat, with a square section of 
say % by %in. for the centerboard boat, and lin. by lin. for the 
keel boat. They should be fairly evenly spaced on the midship 
mould, and nailed to it with 2in. wire nails, and then bent care- 
fully around all the moulds and fastened into the stem rabbet, and 
to the edge of the transom. When the curve is sharp, as in the 
fore ends of the upper battens, they may be tapered a little, to 
enable them to bend easily, but the taper must be quite fair and 
very gradual. 
If the battens do not touch all the moulds fairly, they must be 
make to do so by either cutting away the moulds that are too 
full or by packing up with slips of wood on the slack places. This 
is one of the most difficult parts of the whole work, requiring great 
patience and judgment and a correct eye. It is very seldom that 
all the moulds are absolutely correct, no matter how carefully they 
have been made, and there are sure to be errors both in the 
original design, the full-sized drawing on the floor, and also in 
making the moulds from the drawing and setting them up; so that 
it is only by careful fairing with the battens that these errors can 
be put right. . 
A good rule in fairing when an error is found in a mould is to 
go carefully over the measurements at that station and see if the 
error is in the mould itself, or in the spacing, or merely through 
the batten failing to bend fairly. If you cannot find the cause 
in any of these, then get well away from the boat, first at one end 
planing two sides of each timber; and as this is a very tedious job 
it is well worth the extra shillings charged at the mill. 
Before starting to plane them up, two pairs of cleats or chocks 
must be screwed to the bench, so that they are some distance 
apart in each pair, _as the width of the finished timber, and an end 
stop cut into a V to hold the end of the timber firmly. All these 
must be ^^in. lower than the finished timber will be, so as to 
clear the plane. The first pair of chocks should be about half 
the length of the longest timber from the end stop, and the 
second pair a similar distance beyond the first. 
The object of these chocks is to hold the timbers firmly on the 
bench while being planed, and to prevent them doubling up and 
breaking, as they would do if simply laid on the bench in the 
usual manner. Great care should be taken to set the plane care- 
fully and to keep it sharp, otherwise it will tear the elm badly 
and spoil most of it. 
Having prepared the timbers, their spacing must be set of? along 
the keel and sheer batten, according to the specification, taking 
care that none of them come just on a mould. At the bow it will 
be found that the distance from the stem of No. 1 mould is much 
greater along the sheer batten than it is on the keel. Therefore, if 
the spacing were the same on both, there would be- a gap on the 
sheer batten near the stem with no timbers. To obviate this the 
spacing on the keel is slightly reduced, especially where it runs 
into the curve of stem, and the spacing on the sheer batten, cor- 
respondingly increased, so as to set the same nttmber of spaces on 
both. The result is that in a boat with a bluff bow the timbers are 
which can be bought at any iron monger's. Before screwing them 
up, slip a piece of hardwood, of slightly less thickness than the 
siding of the timbers, between the two saw blades, and let the 
bottom of it be parallel to and at the same distance above the teeth 
of the saws, as the depth to which the joggle is to be cut. The 
two bolts will of course pass through the wood, and when screwed 
up firmly, will hold all three together, so that they can be used as 
a single saw. 
By this means you saw both sides of the joggle at once, and it 
is impossible to cut it too deep, as the gauge will stop the saws 
cutting when they get down to the wood. 
Before cutting the joggles, run a gauge line along the side of the 
keel of the centerboard boat, as it will be an extra guide to 
regulate the exact depth to which they should be cut; and there is 
no room for alteration in a keel of this sort, owing to the small 
amount of back rabbet. 
In cutting the joggles, the points of the saws should be used, 
and the cut started on the angle of the back rabbet and side of the 
keel, holding the saw at such an angle that when it is down to its 
full depth at the deepest part on the angle, the point of the saw 
just cuts the inner angle of the rabbet. Remove the wood between 
the pair of saw cuts with a narrow chisel, so that you have a 
wedge shaped notch, as shown in the sketch. 
END OF TIMBER. 
FIG. 20. — METHOD OF FITTING THE TIMBER INTO THE HEEL. 
One end of each of the timbers should be cut to the proper 
angle to fit these joggles, and it will save a lot of time if they are 
cut before steaming. 
The timbers and keel being prepared according to the foregoing 
instructions, get up steam in the kiln or steam chest, and put the - 
timbers in for half an hour's steaming. When they are soft, start 
with the longest, in the middle of the boat, taking each one quickly 
from the kiln, and fitting the heel into the joggle in the keel, 
which, if it is properly cut, should hold it firmly, but a nail must 
be driven through it into the keel to make sure; then pull the 
timber gently into its place inside the ribbands, working' from the 
keel to the sheer batten, to which the outer end of each should- be 
nailed, but see that every timber is fairly touching all the battens 
befor nailing the end to the sheer batten. 
The boat is' now ready for planking, and we will suppose the 
material for this to be ready for use, cut to, the required thickness, 
and of ample length and width. Before the planking: is started, 
the widths of all the planks must be set off on the midship mould, 
stem and transom, or sternpost and counter frame, as the case 
may be. To do this correctly will take a fair amount of patience 
to avoid any of the planks running ofJ to a point at the ends, and 
at the same time to get them round the turn of the bilge and 
quarters without splitting. 
A fairly safe rule is to have the narrowest planks at the bilge, 
and the widest at the garboard next the keel. The top strake or 
sheer plank is usually a little wider than the one below it, and they 
gradually get narrower to the bilge, and then widen out to the 
garboards. The forward ends of all, except the top strake and 
garboard, should be about the same width where they meet the 
stem, but at the transom of No. 2 boat they must be narrowest at 
the top strake, aa the sharpest curve in the transom is just at the 
deck, and it would be impossible to wor5c a wide plank oyer suq^ 
a short turn, 
