FORfisT AND STREAM. 
[Aug. fd, i0h 
Monday. Aug. 5. There was a good breeze froni the 
N.W., and. Hera won after a close race. _The siammdry: 
Start, 3:42; Finish. Elansed. 
Hera, R. N. Ellis 5 04 12 2 l5 12 
Carolina, P. Tones 5 04 30 pO 
Raccoon, J. R: Drexel .....5 05 00 2 H 00 
Barbara, W. Rutheriurd 5 05 30 2 11 30 
VVawa, R. Brooks. 5 06 11 2 l^i 
Ksperanza, H. O. Havemeyer, Jr 5 Ob 4.3 2 12 4o 
2 25 45 
2 14 10 
2 19 19 
2 25 55 
2 20 17 
2 24 30 
1 57 20 
'2 12 05 
2 08 09 
2 16 10 
2 07 55 
2 17 12 
2 24 22 
1 18 55 
1 14 35 
1 27 27 
1 21 50 
1 13 00 
Bayswatet Y. C 
FAR ROCKAWAY — ^JAMAICA BAY. 
Saturday, Aug. 3. 
Jy; the open regatta of the Bayswater Y. C. that was 
sailed on Jamaica Bay on Saturday, Aug. 3, twenty- three 
hoats started. The breeze was fresh from the S.W., and 
the course was from an imaginary line made off the club 
house to Mud Channel, which is off the head of Sloop 
Island, and from there to a mark off Sweet Water, and 
thence home over the same course. The boats of all 
classes sailed over this course twice, with the exception of 
the sharpies, which went over but once. 
The first class catboats Elsa and Jennie sailed for the 
championship of Jamaica Bay. Jennie got a bad start, her 
opponent beating her over the line 17s. Elsa continued to 
draw away from Jennie soon after the start, and finished a 
winner with minutes to spare. The times: 
First Class— Cabin Sloops— Start, 4:05. 
Moriches 6 30 45 
Robin 6 19 10 
Ella A G 24 19 
Truant " 6 3b 47 
Second Class— Sloops— Start, 4:10. 
Toker 6 35 55 
Amy 6 30 17 
Sponge 1 6 34 30 
Krst Class— Catboats— Start, 4:00. 
Elsa 5 57 20 
Jennie 6 12 Oo 
Second Class— Catboats— Start, 4:15. 
Catherine 6 23 09 
Mattie 6 3110 
Minnehaha » ?S 
Flossie - •• " 
Unknown ■•f Not timed. 
Thn-d Class— Catboats— Start, 4:20. 
Meta 6 44 42 
Agnes Withdrew. 
Mauwee Withdrew. 
First Class— Sharpies— Start, 4:25. 
Domino — f p 
Avicet 5 39 50 
Anna 5 52 27 
.Tnne W 5 46 50 
Marion 5 38 00 
The winners were Robin, Amy, Elsa, Catherine, Meta 
and Marion. 
Williamsbwfg: Y, C 
NORTH BEACH — ^LONG ISLAND SOUND. 
Sunday, Aug. 4. 
The annual midsummer regatta of the Williamsburg 
Y. C. was sailed in a light breeze on Sunday, Aug. 4. The 
boats sailed over a course some six miles in length. The 
first leg of the journey was a beat, the second was two 
tacks of a long and short leg and the third a free run 
home, with booms to port. The summaries : 
Class A— Cabin Sloops— 30ft. and Over. 
Bertha K., Frederick Kafser 3 47 40 
Portia, John Fennell 4 13 00 
Class C— Cabin Sloops— 24 to 26ft. 
Pastime, James Schuessle o 
Volunteer, E. Ray '^^ 
Class D— Cabin Sloops Under 24ft, 
Eagle, Charles Hartman ..4 40 20 
May. £. Falterman ,^ot timed, 
Bellfine, A. Potramann Withdrew, 
Class E— Cabin Catboats 24ft. and Over. 
Mabel M., E. Haman - 4 18 44 
Matilda, Thomas PI. Doremus * ^1 4* 
Class F— Catboats Under 24ft. 
Tessie. W. P. Phillips • 4 08 40 
'Reckless. L. W. Rice 4 14 Oo 
Swan, Robert Jones. 
Bessie, William H. Roth Withdrew. 
Class G— Cabin Catboats 20ft. or Under. 
Florence, G. S, Card...!.. ; 4 05 22 
Etona. H. R. Rosemond 4 32 2( 
Class H— Open Catboats Under 21ft. 
Edith M., F. Eardley 4 11 07 
JJart, E. Kallina Not timed. 
Class D— Open Sloops Under 21ft. 
Poll. W. S. Heatine 4 01 32 
Dot, W. Waldheim Not timed. 
The winners were Bertha K., Pastime, Eagle, Mabel 
M., Jessie, Florence, Edith M. and Polly. 
Mosqwito Fleet Y. C 
SOUTH BOSTON, MASS. 
Saturday, Aug. 3. 
The regular club race of the Mosquito Fleet Y. C. was 
sailed Saturdajr, off the club house on Columbia Road. 
The wind was very light, and poor times were made over 
the course. The summary : 
First Class. 
Elapsed, Correeted. 
Ustane, C. J. Moriarty ^ 1 g 17 2 05 17 
Carrie M., N. C. Robinson 1 54 10 2 06 10 
Venture, W. C. Cherrington. 1 59 00 2 07 00 
^&^vm^Tr^cT'":::::■::::::"^ 04 i i 09 i 
Alia 'C R Moonfy. , 2 09 09 2 14 09 
Second Class. 
Hoyden. C. Aldrich , 1 57 37 2 12 o7 
Myosotis. A La Fort 2 15 36 2 15 36 
• Louise, A. Sherlock 2 05 37 2 15 37 
Betgfen Beach. Y* G 
BERGEN BEACH — JAMAICA BAY. 
Saturday, Aug. 3. 
The first open regatta of the Bergen Beach Y. C. was 
sailed off the new club house on Jamaica Bay on Satur- 
day Aug 3. The boats were divided into five classes, and 
there were nineteen starters. The course was from the 
club dock to a stake boat off the Canarsie dock ; thence to 
the main channel, thence to the red buoy No. 4 and back 
to the starting point. The breeze was from the b.W., ma- 
king the first leg of the course a run, the second a broad 
reach, the third a beat and the fourth a reach. The times 
were: ^ - 
1 37 40 
2 03 00 
1 34 35 
1 42 25 
2 30 20 
2 03 44 
2 12 44 
1 43 40 
1 59 53 
1 50 22 
2 17 27 
1 50 07 
1 46 32 
Cabin Cat Class— Start, 4:05. 
Madeline 5 40 45 1 35 45 1 35 45 
Mignonette 5 4l 19 1 36 19 1 30 59 
Irene 5 26 03 1 21 03 1 14 33 
Hatlie E ; . . . , , 5 29 19 1 24 19 1 ^ 19 
Open Cat Class — Start, 4:10. 
Tam o' Shanter. 5 27 14 1 17 14 1 16 54 
Vision ; : 5 37 45 2 27 45 1 26 05 
^\■idgeon 5 27 48 1 37 28 1 36 48 
Caddie :: 5 28 30 1 28 30 1 28.30 
Open Cat Class— 16 to 18ft.— Start, 4:15. 
Gannette Not timed. 
Pepetia 5 42 32 1 27 32 1 26 52 
Felice ;..,vi..,,. 5 39 00 1 24 00 1 23 00 
Ripple . -. Not timed. 
Skimmer .; 1 1 ;.. Disqualified. 
Sharpie Class— Start, 4:20. 
Lester 41 . . ; i . .i j - i 1 1 . : i . . . ; . .Withdrew. 
Alert..: .....5 43 08 1 23 08 1 23 08 
Start ....Withdrew. 
Free 5 43 00 1 23 50 1 23 50 
Sloop Class — Start, 4:05. 
Chief 3 30 12 1 25 12 1 25 12 
Chelsea ^ 38 45 - 1 35 45 1 21 30 
The winners were Irene, Tam 0' Shanter, Felice, Alert 
and Chelsea. 
Winthfop Y. C 
WINTHROPj MASS. 
Saturday, Aug. 3. 
The special handicap race of the Winthrop Y. C. was 
sailed off the club house Saturday, Aug. 3, in a very light 
southwesterly breeze. ' Freyja finished first, btit lost to 
Alert on corrected time. The summary: 
Elapsed. Corrected. 
Alert, H. M. Ridgeway ; 1 52 17 1 44 17 
Freyja, C. H. Goddard 1 49 00 1 46 00 
Hector, A. W. Hubbard .....1 59 24 1 47 24 
Zetes, L. B. McKie 2 00 46 1 49 46 
Favorite. F. W. Bird 2 04 46 1 50 46 
Grayling, Mr. Lansing 1 52 43 1 52 43 
Louise, W. D. Allen 2 06 59 1 52 59 
Charlotte, W. H. Watkins 3 12 28 1 57 28 
Thclma. E. K. Tewksbury 2 12 59 1 58 59 
Ideal, H. B. Whittier 2 18 33 2 08 33 
Dot, Dr. Maynard 2 30 56 2 OS 56 
Ruth, A. F. Richards 2 27 14 2 09 14 
Caper, W. W. Colson 2 33 38 2 12 38 
Henrietta, J. A. McCloskey 2 26 40 2 12 40 
Flash, W, H, Myrick 2 33 11 2 13 11 
Eva, H, D, Flynn 2 35 32 2 15 32 
Zoo, H. Waitt , Withdrew- 
Duxbttfy Y. G 
DUXBURY, MASS. 
Saturday, Aug. 3. 
The Duxbury Y. C. sailed its regular club r^ce on 
Saturday, Aug. 3, in a rattling southwester with plenty of 
puffs. AH of the boats had as much as they wanted to 
handle, and two of them were disabled. The suinmary : 
21ft. Class, 
Elapsed. 
Geisha, W. T. Whitman 1 41 12 
Scamper, Reed Brothers 1 44 33 
18ft. Class. 
Lobster IL, C. C. Clapp 1 49 10 
Dazzler, Goodspeed Brothers,....,,.,..,,..., 1 43 40 
Kittiwake, H. M. Jones .1...;.. 1 45 04 
Trouble, Henry Hunt , , 1 46 35 
Oom Paul, George Cushman.,..,..,, .Disabled. 
Handicap Class, 
Aureleux. H. Kellogg • ? 03 34 
Fedora, Simmons Brothers 2.0s 21 
Dolphin, N. Morton Disabled- 
Qwincy Y» G 
QUINCY, MASS. 
The regular club race of the Quincy Y. C. was sailed 
off the club house, Saturday, Aug. 3, in a very light 
breeze from the S.W- The yachts in the first class were 
bunched all over the course. Hustler finished first, but 
lost to Whisper on time allowance. The summary : 
Elapsed. Corrected. 
Whisper, W. C. Harrison 4 05 10 4 11 10 
Hustler, Whittemore & Robbins. . . . . ., 4 01 lo 4 13 15 
C. C, G. H. Carey 4 02 35 4 14 3d 
Gobli;., E. Ricker.V. .4 10 00 4 15 00 
Dora, Mr. Albright ,4 12 4o 4 17 4o 
Ida J., C. Collins 4 07 40 4 19 40 
Marvel, Reed & Lincoln.-.., .4 10 35 4 2| 3d 
Hester. Mr. Blackman 4 24 ^9 4 |7 09 
Dolly, W. W. Arnold .....4 22 28 4 27 28 
Special Class. 
Elapsed, 
Cleopatra, F. F. Crane ■ • • • in ?n 
Bobolink, W. B. Vose 4 20 10 
SmaU Yacht Constmctipn and 
Rigging. 
BY IINTOS HOPE. 
Chapter X.— L«ad Keels and Center Plate?. 
The lead keel of No. 2 design should be cast at a foundry, but 
the wooden pattern must be made exacfly to the drawing by the 
boat builder. , , ,, ^ 1 ^ 
When making the pattern, first cut out a set of hollow templates 
to the sections shown in the design. These are made m the 
Siame wgy as the building moulds; but instead ot the template being 
made to fit inside the section, as the moulds were, it is made to fit 
outside, so that it can be tried on the pattern as it is bemg made 
In very large patterns, moulds are used, and the patterp is planked 
up on them in the same way as the boat is built; but for a small 
keel it is simpler to make it out of 3 series of 3m, deals nailed 
together to make a solid block large enough to cut the pattern 
^"^ 4°full-size drawing of the keel must be made from the sections 
in the design, and it should have a series of longitudinal sections 
worked out from the others at every 3in. from_ the upper side, 
which is to fit next to the boat and parallel to it (Note— These 
longitudinal sections will not be parallel to the L.W.L., nor at 
right angles to the cross sections). , ... , 
A Sin. deal should be planed up, and if it cannot be got ot 
sufficient width to make the top piece in one, two siich pieces 
must be joined together. Drajv a center line and set oft the stations 
for each section, remembering to take all distances along the Ime of 
the too of the lead, and not the horizontal interval between the 
sections, 8.S shown on the design. Set off the half-breadths at each 
station, draw a fair line through the spots, and saw it out to the 
"Mark^out^and cut a similar Sin. slab to each of the longitudinal 
sections and fasten them all together, with their center lines 
coinciding. The result will be like a series of steps, and the angles 
must be trimmed fair with adze and plape. 
Having roughlv faired up the pattern, mark the rake of the 
sections with the'upper side, and try the templates at each station. 
Be careful not to cut away too much at first, and try the templates 
several times, planing off a little at a time till they all fit,^ then fix 
the pattern temporarily in place on the boat's keel, and fair it up 
with a batten bent over the planking and pattern, at various angles. 
filaning off any lumps till the batten lies fairly in every direction. 
I he pattern jnust now be finished with a fine plane and glass 
paper till it is perfectly smootli, and all cracks and boles must lie 
stopped: It IS then ready tor a coat of priming, and when that is 
dry, it ^should be rubbed down and .'^ent to the foundry. 
Most metals shrink in cooling when they are cast, and it is uiJtial 
to allow for this in inaking the pattern; but as a lead keel nearly 
always come _ out heavier than it is calculated, owing to the 
immense weight expanding the sand and mould when it is poured 
in, the contraction may be ignored. 
Do not try to get the bolt holes cast in the lead, but bore them 
with a shell-pointed augur from inside the boat. This will insure 
the bolt holes being in their proper places with regard to the floor 
framesi 
Boring the lead is a tedious job, and requires an auger properly 
sharpened, or it will stick in the hole. A twist auger is quite 
hseless for lead, and will stick at once and probably break in the 
hole. Use plenty of oil or soapy water as a lubricant when boring 
lead. 
When boring the bolt holes for the lead keel from inside the 
beat great care must be taken to get the boat plumbed exactly 
upright, so that when boring a plumb line inside the boat will 
show the proper direction for the auger, to get the hole in the 
center of the lead. Be sure and start your auger perfectlj' plumb, 
and once the hole is a few inches deep, the auger cannot go 
wrong. 
A lead keel is far too heavy to move about single handed, and 
help must be obtained to place in position and wedge it close to 
the wood keel ready for boring; but before it is in place the upper 
part must be leveled to fit the wood. This is done first with an 
adze and afterward with a plane. A heavy hammer will often 
reduce a small lump, and if the lead is bent it can be straightened 
by laying it on blocks of wood and striking it with sledge ham- 
mers (with a piece of wood over the lead to prevent dents). The 
bolts for the lead keel should be of Bull's metal, with long, 
tapered, square heads, and driven upward. They should be fitted 
tightly through the wood keel, but the holes in the lead should 
be large enough to let the bolts drive fairly easily. 
The end filling pieces of wood to carry out the' form of the keel 
are fitted after the lead is on and the whole dubbed with the 
adze and planed up when bolted together. 
Take plenty of time over fairing up the keel, as on this depends 
much of the boat's speed. 
Paint well between the wood keel and the lead, and all joints. 
For those who wish to cast their own lead keels or bulbs, the 
following hints may be of use, but I should strongly advise any 
one to get the lead cast at a foundry, as it is a very troublesome 
business, and requires a good deal of care to turn out a good 
c? sting. . 
To make a mould for a lead keel of the size required for No. 1. 
design, about two cart loads of moulders' sand must be obtained 
from a foundry, ordinary sand being useless, having no cohesion. 
There are two methods of making the mould. -First (and best) by 
digging a hole in the ground about 6in. deeper, a foot longer, and 
a foot wider than the pattern to be cast and filling it up with 
the moulding sand round the pattern. The second way is to build 
a strong box of 3in. deals to contain the sand, but without either 
top or bottom. This box is filled with the sand round the pattern 
in the same way as the hole in the ground, but is liable to burst 
with the weight of the lead, gnd requires a special trough or 
chute for the lead from the furnace or melting pot, whereas the 
pther form of mould simply has a gutter cut in the sand, along 
vhich the lead flows. The advantages of each of these are cheap- 
ness, simplicity and perfect strength and safety of the first, as 
against portability of the mould, ease of handling and getting out 
the casting, and possibility of using the mould on a wood or brick 
floor on the second method. The latter must be very strongly made 
to stand the enormous strain of the lead. 
Whichever plan is chosen, the method of making the mould will 
be the same. Fill the hole or box about Bin. deep with moulding 
sand, well rammed down as hard as possible, ramming each layer 
say an inch in depth, till the whole mass is solid, Place the 
wood pattern on this bed of sand, with the top face, which is 
to fit next to the wood keel, exactly horizontal, and level it 
carefully in all directions. Support the pattern exactly in this 
position, and pour in sand, ramming it tightlj' as it is put in, till 
the whole mould is full and a bit above the level of the top of the 
pattern. Take a trowel and level the sand exactly to the surface of 
the pattern, and cut a groove or gutter for the lead, to run into the 
mould at the thinnest end. The pattern can now be removed, but 
it should have a couple of screw eyes in thg top to lift it out of the 
sand. Before lifting it out, tap it" all over sharply with a hammer, 
to loosen it in the sand, and then lift it out carefully and slowly, so 
as not to injure the sharp edges and angles of the mould. These 
instructions only apply to patterns which taper, and can therefore 
be easily withdrawn from the sand. Bulb-shaped keels must be 
cast in a mould in two halves, which is beyond the amateur's 
power to make, as it requires special boxes to contain the sand 
and considerable skill in moulding to turn out such a casting. 
Having prepared the mould, a melting pot or furnace must be 
ponstructeq. This should consist of an iron pot (wrought iron for 
choice), which will hold at least a ton of lead, but if possible large 
enough to contain the whole amount required, and a few hundred- 
weight for waste. This melting pot must be set in a ring of fire- 
bricks, with one or two openings at the bottom for firing, and 
several more at the top to create a draught, or it may simply stand 
on three fire-brick piers and have an open fire all around it. In 
either case a large coke fire will have to be maintained for sojnc 
hours, under anfl round the melting pot, Nvhich should be filled 
with lead in as small pieces as possible at first, larger pigs being 
added as the mass of melted lefid increases, till the whole amount is 
melted or the pot is full. A pouring hole of tap should be fixed 
in the bottom of the pot if possible, and should consist of a hole 
or pipe about lin. in diameter, which is stopped from the outside 
with a clay plug, to be knocked out when the lead is ready to pbur. 
A gutter is made from this hole to the runner or groove in the 
mould, the whole being op a gopd slope, so that the melted lead 
flows freely. 
If a melting pot with a pouring hole or tap cannot be obtained, 
a common past iron Pot can be used, and the lead dipped out in 
Ipng-handle^ ladles, and poured by hand inVo the mould. This is 
a very trying job, owing to the great heat of the fire, and several 
hands must be employed tp pour in the lead fast enough to keeii it 
melted in the mould till it is all ip, as if it partly cools a division 
or flake will occur and spoil the casting. In no case is it possible 
to obtain such a good casting by mpans of hand ladles as by run- 
ning direct from the melting pot, though I have seen a 20-ton 
keel cast entirely by hand ladles, and it turned out fairly well. 
To get a really good casting the lead should be very hot and 
fluid, and run into the mould as quickly as possible; also all dross 
3nd scum will be avoided if it is run from a hole at the bottom of 
the pot. The hotter the lead is when run the denser the casting 
will be, and consequently the casting which is run hot will prob- 
ably come out a bit heavier than one run at a heat when the lead 
would onlv just pour. A little rosin should be thrown into the pot 
ki_s|: before rimning, as a flux. Don't forget a casting of a ton or 
mope will ta,l<e niany hours to cool. 
Tlie centerplate must be orjlerefl from the smith with the other 
iron and metal work; anfl a fulhsige template pf thip wood should 
be made to the drawing, with all holes and sharp edges, etc,, 
marked clearly on it. Particular instructions should be given with 
the- order, as to sharpening the edges, and also stating tliat the 
plate must be absolutely flat and true, as a bent or buckled p'ate is 
quite useless and cannot be straightened by any ordinary smith. 
The edges should be sharpened to a long, easy bevel, and it 
should be carried back on the plate for a distance equal to three 
or four times its thickness, dying gradually into the flat surface. 
The edges cannot be too sharp. Bull's metal is the best material 
for centerplates for 3II purposes; bt(t it is expensive and often sent 
out very badly buckled unless specially ordered to be [ilanished. 
Next to" this metal, sav.- blade steel is the best for very hght plates, 
or mild steel for heavier plates which are to be galvanized. Do 
not try to galvanize saw steel or it will buckle badly and cannot 
be straightened. , r t 
The above remarks apply equally to all centerplates of any form, 
and also to bulb-fin plates and rudder blades. 
There are four tvpes of centerplates now in general use, and 
many modifications' of these general types. In addition to these 
there are lifting bulb fins and ballasted centerplates, which most 
of them come under one of the four main types. 
These four classes are: i i 1, 
Yivst The rectangular, with a vertical hoist by means of handles 
or one or more w^ires or chains. 
Second— The triangular plate, pivoted at the fore end and hoisted 
by a handle, wire or chain at the upper corner. 
Third— The semi-circular plate, pivoted in the center of its 
straight edge or diameter, and hoisted by a handle on one end, the 
slot in the keel being only half the length of the plate, but the 
case inside being the whole length. This is the easiest plate to 
raise of its weight. ■ t-, j ^1 
Fourth (and most generally used now) — The deep rectangular or 
knife-shaped plate (commonly called a "dagger" plate), and lifted 
by a lever and tackle from the forward upper corner. This plate 
was introduced in this country by me in 1804, in the I rater 
