Oct. 5, 1901.J 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
277 
YACHT PEARL— ROYAL BERMUDA Y. C. 
Bearing the flag of the Commodore, Samuel Prescott, Esq. 
to make for him a copy of a scale draft of Pearl's sail 
plan, to which he appended the following legend : 
"Yacht Pearl. 
"Royal Bermuda Y. C. 
"Bearing the flag of the 
"Commodore, Samuel Prescott, Esq." 
1 have made a tracing of the plan, which I send with 
this article, and which I have followed as exactly as pos- 
sible, except that the original plan was in pencil, and very 
faint from age. The legend on the plan states that certain 
lines are in red, and .show the "wager" sail plan, while the 
lines in black give the ordinary plan; but the plan itself 
had no red lines, but full lines and broken ones, from 
which I infer that it was a copy of the original sail draft 
which had tlie two sets distinguished in that way. This 
has led to a little confusion in the jibs in the plan, but I 
think it quite evident that Mr. Fowks intended to show 
that imder her ordinary rig she carried a moderate jib, 
but that this was sometimes supplemented by a flying 
jib, and that the racing jib stay was set at a point about 
half way between the jib and flying jib stays of the ordi- 
nary rig. She evidently shipped a longer bowsprit and 
boom, as well as mast for racing; and I have made a 
mistake in drawing the mast above the throat of the top- 
sail in full lines; it should have been dotted in that 
portion. 
The sheet on which the copy was made was a little small 
for the pui-pose, and I have carried the lines out to the 
junctions, indicating by the light bordering line the size 
of the original. 
One cannot fail to notice the tremendous rake of the 
mast, as well as its length, and there is no cutting away 
of the lateral plane to save skin friction ; notice also the 
depth of the forefoot. Unfortunately the beam is not 
stated. The topsail was one which I have never seen 
used, yet I have seen it drawn in several plan-^ made by 
the A. M., and the fancy which he took to the Bermudan 
r-EC he never recovered from, and to his dying day was 
■ -dy to demonstrate its convenience and superioritv. 
My own fondness for that rig arises largely from his 
leachings. 
While at Bermuda the A. M. took some measurements 
nnd made a sketch of the sloop Corsair, built in 1807. 
Her waterline was 22ft.. over all 26ft., beam 9ft. and draft 
f)ft. ; her bowsprit was 8ft. outboard, and her mast 42.6ft. 
above the deck, or, in other words, nearly twice her water- 
line. 
Somewhere, probably in Boston, there ought to be a 
painting representing Brenda in the Gulf Stream, since the 
sketch, a photograph of which I inclose, shows unmistak- 
able signs of having been enlarged and used for such a 
painting, either in oil or water colors. I never thought to 
ask. but it is highly probable that he either painted such a 
picture himself for the owner, or loaned the sketch to 
Lane, who was a marine artist of some note in those 
days, and who was one of the "gang" who sailed in 
Brenda when she was in her home waters, 
I wonder if the records of tlie N. Y. Y. C. eould throw 
any light on this early cruise and "first international yacht 
race," and, by the way, this sketch would seem to indi- 
cate that the Royal Bermuda Y. C. must have been about 
as old as, if not older, than the N. Y. Y. C, which I had 
supposed was the first on this continent. *** 
Small Yacht Construction and 
Rigging. 
BY UNTON HOPE. 
XIV,— Cabin Fittings for No. 2 Design. 
The most important parts of the interior work are the bulkheads 
and lining, or ceiling; and all this part of the work must be com- 
pleted before any of the fittings can be put in. 
As stated in a previous chapter, this should be done before the 
deck is on, as there will then be more light and room to work than 
there would be after the boat is decked; but the berths and other 
fittings are better left till the rest of the work is finished. 
All bulkheads should be tongued and grooved and if they are to 
be perfectly watertight they should also be lined with painted 
cotton, which should lap over the skin of the boat, about an inch 
all around, and be held in place by a wood fillet bent around the 
angle between bulkhead and skin and well screwed to both. This 
method will insure a perfectly watertight bulkhead, which is other- 
wise very difficult to obtain. 
If there is not a timber exactly at the place where the bulkhead 
is to be fitted, an extra stout timber should be bent round at that 
point and well screwed to the skin, forming a ledge or fillet, to 
which the planking of the bulkhead may be fastened. 
The angle between the under side of the deck and the inside of 
the shelf and planking is the hardest part to fit, and this should be 
done at each side first, working from the sides to the center, but 
taking care that the joints in the planks are vertical, and all the 
beads on the same side. (V-joints and narrow planks look very 
well in bulkheads and lining in place of the usual bead.) 
For a plain job, ordinary %in. match board, if picked clear of 
knots, will do very well; but it is very rough and liable to shrink 
and go out of shape. 
Teak, mahogany. Kauri pine and cedar all make very good bulk- 
heads, the latter being very light, and more suitable for racing 
boats. 
The ordinary bulkheads in the cabin and forecastle are not 
intended to be watertight, so there is no need to take very much 
trouble over the fitting of the joints except so far as looks are con- 
cerned; but the sides and ends of a watertight cockpit require 
most careful fitting if leaks are to be avoided, and all jomts should 
be well bedded in red and white lead or thick varnish, and either 
tongued, rabbeted or fitted with fillets at the back. The main 
joints between floor and sides and ends should also be covered 
with angle beads bedded in thick varnish, and the floor sliould be 
covered with linoleum. It is best to fit the sides and ends of the 
cockpit first, and put in the floor afterward; a small drain pipe 
should be fitted from each of the after-corners of the cockpit floor 
leading through the planking. If this is of lead, it can easily be 
fitted tightiv into the holes in the cockpit floor and planking, and 
if a quarter-inch is left projecting at each end it can be turned 
over with the point of a hammer and screwed or nailed to the wood. 
The cabin doors should be properly framed, exactly like an 
ordinary house door, except that there will be only one panel in 
each door instead of four, and that the frame will be of hard wood. 
The top and bottom rails of the door have a groove plowed on 
their inner edges to take the panel, which is fitted into the groove 
before the framing is put together. The pane! should be about 
half the thickness of the framing, which ought not to be less than 
IViin. stuff, of a width suitable to the size of the door. The joints 
between the styles and rails of the framing should be mortice and 
tenon but a plain halving is much easier, though not nearly such a 
good 'job, as they cannot be wedged up after the panel is in, as the 
others can. , , . , 
Rabbeted doorposts and a sill must be fitted to the bulkhead to 
form a doorway; the doorg should open outward and shut against 
a strip of rubber in the rabbet on the posts and sill, thus forming a 
watertight joint. The central joint between the doors can be made 
watertight in the same way, but in all cases where rubber is used 
it must be carefully looked after, as it soon perishes at sea. 
Watertight doors in the cockpit bulkheads are usually fitted with- 
o-at hinges, but with two cleats on the back, shipping inside the 
doorway. The door is fitted with a rabbet all round it, which over- 
laps the doorway and is lined with rubber. The cleats on the back 
of the door are cut slightly tapering, so as to draw the door tightly 
into place when it is closed, and the other end of the door is forced 
against the bulkhead by means of a cam-shaped button or a thumb- 
screw 
The seats in the cockpit should be fitted to lift up and give access 
to the side lockers, which are very useful for wraps, fenders, etc. 
The seats must have a ledge running round the inside of the 
opening, with a groove in it under the joint to carry off any water 
which may come through. This water-course is also fitted around 
skylights and hatchways, etc. 
When the bulkheads and doors are finished, the floor should be 
laid. This is usually of lin. spruce or white pine, on lin. by 2i4m. 
bearers, spaced 1ft. 2in, apart, and resting on the timbers; it 
should have two middle planks made to take up easily, for access 
to the keel; they must be cut at least %in. too small all around 
or they will swell and stick when wet. These two planks should 
be fa,stened together with ledges, so as to come up in one piece, 
and two good-sized finger holes should be bored, one at each end. 
The rest of the flooring can be screwed down after it has had a 
coat of paint on the under side. , , , 
The whole of the inside of the boat should have been well 
painted with at least three coats of best oil paint before any mside 
work is done. The lining, or ceiling, of the cabins should be done 
with 2in. planks of %in. cedar or pine, and the edges of the planks 
should have a bevel, so as to form a V-joint, or else a very small 
bead worked on the lower edge of each. 
There is no need to shape these narrow planks unless the boat 
is very hard in the bilge, and has a lot of curve in the sides of the 
cabin. In most cases they can be forced into place easily, and 
nailed to the inside of the timbers with short, copper nails. 
The lining should be carried down the side just below the level 
of the sofa berths, which will be fitted over the lining. 
A space for ventilation between the lining and the planking 
must always be left at the top. Where the shelf does not come up 
to the level of the deck, as described previously, there is no occa- 
sion for any further ventilation ; but if, as in many boats, the shelf is 
carried right up to the deck, then a space for ventilation must be 
left. This is done either by piercing holes in the upper plank oJ 
the lining or by keeping a space of %,in. between it and the under 
side of the shelf. The former method, if the holes are arranged in 
ornamental patterns, is the neatest. 
■ The fronts of the sofa berths can be put m in one piece for each 
side, fastened to cleats screwed to the bulkheads at each end of the 
cabin and bent to any required curve by struts from each other. 
The lower edges will have to be fitted to the curve of the boat 
where a portion of the side shows between them and the sides of 
of the floor at each end of the cabin. This is done in the same 
way as described for fitting the edge of a plank, except that in this 
case the whole board is cut off to the correct length, and bent into 
its place between the bulkheads and pressed down till some part of 
it touches the side of the boat; this will probably be the forward 
corner. .See that the board is level with the floor of the cabin, and 
bent to its correct curve, if any, and then take spilings along the 
lower edge from each timber, starting at the point where the board 
is furthest from a timber; and taking that distance set off the sanie 
distance vertically above each timber on the face of the board. 
Having set off all the spilings, cut the lower edge to them, remem- 
bering to bevel the edge to suit the curve of the boat's side as 
nearly as possible. When the two boards are correctly fitted to the 
timbers, skew-nail them to each timber, and screw the ends to the 
cleats on the bulkheads. If the ends are not fitted against the 
bulkheads a small frame must be made of two pieces of Im. by 
2in. white pine, halved together, one of them vertical and securely 
fastened to a timber, and the other horizontal and also fastened to 
the same timber. Both parts are on edge, the horizontal piece 
giving the width of the berth at that point, and the vertical piece 
giving the height above the floor, and also being a firm stanchion 
to fasten the front to. These frames will be required about every 
2ft. along each berth, to support the seat, and they may be put in 
either before or after the fronts are fixed. 
The seats or locker tops are usually of lin. white pme, and inade 
in short, movable sections, giving easy access to the lockers below 
the sofa. The portion of the locker top next the side of the boat 
must be fitted or scribbed in in the same way as the lower edges 
of the fronts, and when fitted should be screwed down. A strong 
fillet should be screwed along the inner edge of this fitted piece, 
and with them, forming a support to the movable pieces of the top, 
all of which should have large finger holes for lifting. , . , 
Teak, mahogany or pitch pine all make good fronts to the berths, 
and if desired moulding can be fastened with fine nails to the face 
of the fronts, so as to give the appearance of panels. It should be 
of some hard -wood, giving a good contrast to the wood of the front, 
and may be about Vain, in thickness. , , , , 
The front of the sofa berth is usually left about iy2in. above the 
locker top to prevent the cushions slipping off, and if false 
framing and panelling are used, a capoing of the same hard wood 
must be worked over the joint along the top. 
Sideboards or cupboards, are usually fitted at one or both ends 
of the berths, and these must be framed in lin. by 2in. white pine 
before they have the sides and top fitted. Some prefer a door at 
the front and shelves inside, while others have a lid only on the 
top. The former is. usually the most convenient, as, if the top has 
a small ledge or rail around it it is very useful as a shelf, andthe 
interior, being divided with shelves (each with a ledge on the ijpnt 
edge), will hold a lot of small odds and ends of provisions, botUcs, 
etc., all easy to get at. , , , , , . , 
The sides of this cupboard should be made, m the same way 
as the bulkheads, and the front must have a doorway and a fr»»cd 
door on brass hinges. . , r t 
Note— All hinges and locks must be entirely of brass, many so- 
called brass locks having steel springs and pins, and the hinges 
also have iron pins, which soon rust. _ 
Any amount of ornament may be put into the mouldings and 
panelling of the berths and sideboards, etc., and there _ is always 
something to do in the winter evenings after the boat is laid up 
in making odds and ends of racks, book-shelves and other knick- 
knacks for the cabin. There is no need to go into detail as to these 
various small items, except to say that a pair of net racks like 
those in railway carriages, are always useful, also a set ot book- 
shelves, while a tin chart case and the binoculars may each have a 
small rack out of the way. , i u ^^^a^a 
A good eight-day clock and aneroid should always be provMled 
and fixed to the bulkhead. Two or more swing candlesticks WiU, be 
required and of course the necessary upholstery and b«*img 
"Pantasote" or "Pegamoid," stuft'ed with "Kapok, is abo« the 
best form of cushion for yacht cabins, as the cushions an» Oot 
affected by sea water, and are also life buoys, while theif WOlc 
like leather and keep soft. , , . , , j ui -.vi...... 
The other interior fittings should include a double wiCWess 
paraffin stove by Fletcher and Phillipson, of Dublin, similar to the 
annexed sketch, and all the cooking utensils and plates, etc., 
should be of the best enamelled ware. j , „„„t,„:. 
A large fresh-water tank should be fitted under the cockpit 
floor with a pipe and stocK-cock in the cabin and a filling pipe and 
screw plug in the floor of the cockpit. If an ordinary bicycle air 
pump is fitted in the side of the tank, so that it can be worked from 
the cabin, a oressure of air can be maintained m the tank, and 
water may be' drawn off at will, even when the tap is above the 
level of the top of the tank. All that is required is that the draw- 
off pipe should lead from the bottom of the tank, and that all joints 
should be airtight, which is easily secured by greasing all the 
^'^Proper fockers and racks should be fitted for the plates, knives 
and forks, etc., and the cooking utensils; but as every one has his 
own ideas on these points they are best left to the owner s fancy. 
1 — DimcEEiors. 
D. (hull)=Oft. Sin. 
D. (,plate)=4ft. Sin. 
Specification No 
L.O.A.=22ft. Oin. 
L.W.L.=17ft. Oin. 
B.=6ft. Oin. 
Scantlings. 
Keel.— .\nierican elm, Sin. sided amidships 
tapered ait ends, as shown. ,0,,. -j j 
Stem.— English oak, natural crook; 4in. sided at keel; .3%in. sided 
at deck; 2%in. moulded. 
Stern Knee.- English oak, natural crook; l^in. 
moulded at throat; lin. moulded at upper end; iy2in 
rudder case; well fastened to keel and transom. 
Transom.— Mahogany, teak or elm. %in, thick. 
Timbers.— American elm, %in. moulded and %in. sided; spaced 
5in., center to center. Steamed. 
Floor Timbers.— Oak, lin. sided, and moulded as follows: _ 
No. 1 (from stem). l%in. on top of keel, tapered to %in. at 
ends; arms 1ft. from center of keel. 
No. 2. Same sizes as No. 1, but with 1ft. Sin. arms. 
No. 3. IVi'm. sided and 2V2in. moulded on keel. 
No. 4 (fore end of case, into which it is joggled). 1^4in. sided 
and 3^in. moulded on keel. 
IVain. moulded; 
sided; 3in. 
moulded at 
