4B2 
3POREST AND STftEA^J. 
Adirondack Tours, 
At Lowville, on the Black River railroad, a genial 
party boarded the "Woods Express," drawn by a fjait 
team, under the guidance of "Pap Burke," the old reliable 
wagoner who had been engaged to transfer ourselves ftft'ci 
baggage over the eighteen miles of very fair road to 
Fenton's famous resort at "Number Four," situate near 
the pretty Beaver Lake on the Beaver River. Here 
were most hospitably entertained, had good suppen lodg- 
ing- 'and breakfast, and in the morning,- after a trip over 
the lake and a look at Grave's Lake, near by, we again 
took passage on the "Woods Express" en route for 
"Dunbars," where we were to meet our guides. We 
passed near Lake Francis, of which we took a view, and 
stopping for water at Sunday Creek continued over a 
then — 1886 — most miserable road, but enlivened by in- 
teresting forest scenery, through which we walked or 
rode, as the roughness or spirit seemed to move each 
individual. After nine tniles were overcome^ — inter- 
spersed, however, with song, joke and repartee — we 
drew up at the hostelry and were received with open arms 
and a -hearty welcome from big Joe Dunbar and our 
guides, Andrew and Chris. After one of the good din- 
ners for which Mrs. D. was famous, we transferred our 
dunnage to the boats and pulled and paddled up the 
then sinuous windings of Beaver River until we reached 
Little Rapids, where we remained over night at Muncy's. 
The next morning we proceeded by stream and portage 
until we passed into Albany Lake, and on arriving at the 
narrows, where the old military road formerly crossed by 
a bridge, the sills of which were yet discernible, we 
stopped for a half-hour's fishing, and were rewarded with 
a very nice string of trout. Then we went on up the 
lake — the upper portion of which is quite attractive — 
and entering the inlet — Beaver River — proceeded- up to 
the portage of three-fourths of a mile around the rapids, 
a good troutirig water. Again embarking, after a pull of 
a little more than a mile, with charming river scenery, we 
entered what was then known as Smith's Lake, now Lake 
Lila, of Dr. Wood's preserve — Ne-ha-sa-ne Park — and 
were entranced by the panoramic views presented at every 
turn of the boats. This lake is one of the finest in the 
Adirondacks; it is studded with beautiful islands, tree 
covered and picturesque, and surrounded by a diversity 
of mountain scenery. The points and baj's show to great 
advantage as seen from the top of Bald Mountain at 
the northwest portion of the lake, and it is well worth 
the cHrab of about 800 feet to get the view. From here 
one sees Silver Lake Mountain, Mt. Morris, Mt. Buck, 
Owlshead, Moose, Catlin, Baldwin, Blue Mountain and 
others in the distance; and intervening forest-crowned 
mountains and foothills of lesser height, but giving eflfect 
to the charm of undulating forest scenery, and presenting 
a variety of shading from the diversity of trees, from the 
light of the white birches to the dark of the evergreens 
and the intervening beech, maples, etc., thus giving; a 
picture of wondrous beauty to a lover of nature. With a 
good field glass and with map and compass at hand, many 
prominent peaks, including White F^ce at Lake Placid, 
may be accurately located. As we passed an island and 
came in sight of the then unique sportsman's log hotel, 
kept b}' La Mont, the writer unpacked a small Distin 
cornet and awoke the echoes among the hills by playing 
a few selections; and as we approached the landing were 
greeted by all of the inhabitants and welcomed most cor- 
dially. Our trout were served at supper; a pleasant even- 
ing spent at "CaHfornia Jack's" with story-telling, and we 
were shown to our rooms in. the "dormitory" — a build- 
ing two stories high made entirely without a sawed 
board or timber, everything having been prepared by the 
ax, the clapboards split out and somewhat smoothed -with 
a draw-shave, and the shingles the same. It was a case 
of necessity, for there was neither sawmill nor posloffice 
within fifty miles, nor any road over which to do the 
hauling. It is now a thing of the past, and Dr. Webb's 
summer home has been built upon or near the site of 
the modest hostelry that has given good fare and a wel- 
come to many sportsmen who sought the wilds instead 
of the pleasure resorts of the Adirondacks. 
The next day we were upon the lake sight-seeing and 
fishing — some for trout and others trolling for the so- 
called lake trout. We met with A'ery good success, the 
larger fish being placed in the ice-house, and the smaller 
served at the table. The next day a trip was made by 
carry and through Harrington Pond to Clear Pond, and 
some very fine, large trout were taken, some of which 
would weigh 2^ to 2^ pounds. Dinner was prepared on 
the shore, and most heartily enjoyed, and on our way 
back while on the outlet of Harrington Pond, upon turn- 
ing a curve we saw a large buck standing at the edge of 
the stream, in full relief against the background of balsam 
firs. Unfortunately, none of the party had a camera, but 
the picture was impressed upon our minds indelibly. La 
Mont always had a camp-fire burning in the evening dur- 
ing the entire season a few feet distant from the hotel 
porch, and it was very enjoyable, as the guests would 
gather to the front; and story and song, with cornet 
music, made the hours pass merrily. 
The next trip w^as across the lake to South Bay, and by 
a three-quarter-mile carry into the famous trout stream 
known as "The Shingle Shanty," where each of the party 
secured a fine creel of fair sized trout to add to the supply 
to be taken home. Another night at the camp-fire, and 
then a trip up the main or Beaver River inlet and through 
Mud Pond and Little Salmon , into Josephine or Salmon 
Lake, a very pretty sheet of water peopled by both trout 
and lakers, of which we secured a goodly share. We 
dined al fresco, and started back to headquarters in due 
time. Andy, with B. and myself, being the first, pushed 
ahead, and reached the river an hour before dark; 
found it rising and in places rushing like a torrent through 
confining banks; and on turning a bend we discovei-ed 
a balsam tree uprooted and fallen directly across the 
channel. We hauled up and with our knives cut off 
branches so that we could pass the boat under by stoop- 
ing, and went rapidly on, reaching Smith's Lake just 
before dark, and then across to the hotel, where a late 
supper awaited, of which we partook with keen appetites. 
When through supper we wondered why the others had 
not yet made their appearance. As it was now dark, the 
camp-fire had been lighted, which would serve as a bea- 
con after they should feach the kke; t>tit an hour passed 
before we heard aaytMtt& of them. We were beginning 
to fear — which the case — that some accident had he- 
fallen thfein, and we spoke of the fallen trefe \Vhich we 
Could not cut away as we hM nt) ax. At last a shout 
far out on the lake-, wh'ieh "we responded to, and then the 
announcement "Get something hot, we are wet and cold," 
brou^^ht lis to a realizing sense that something had hap- 
pened; and part went to meet them at th^; ddek> dnd 
others prepared a, hot and stiff vvhisky toddy, and re- 
plenished the fires, while the Woiiieh got a hot supper in 
readiness, all of which was duly appreciated by the thi^ie^ 
half-drowned voyageurs-. Afteri they weire vVS^med and 
fed we learned their tale of W'o'6:^ tl seems that S. and P., 
against the advice of Chris., stopped awhile at Little Sal- 
mon for "Just a. few more trout;" and by the time they 
reached that part of the river where the obstruction was, 
it was dark, and they did not sec it until the man in the 
bow struck into the branches, and the boat swung afodhd 
-and upset as it was drawn under by the stfoftf tiirreht, 
and_ the former occupants struggling in the water. 
Chris., hanging on to the paddle, soon came to where he 
could touch bottotn, ahd fortunately regained the boat, 
and S._ and P., by swimming, reached the banks in his 
near viciiiity; but a gim and silver flask had gone to the 
bottom, and some fishing tackle was among the missing. 
They reentered the boat and hastened as best they could 
to their destination. Next morning Chris, and Andy 
went up to the scene of the disaster, cut out the tree, and 
recovered the gun and flask and some of the tackle, and 
after dinner all but myself started on their horneward 
trip with a fine lot of fish for their friends, and consider- 
able experience. 
I had engaged Andy for the entire season, except ten 
days that he had previously engaged himself to a New 
York party. On his return in a couple of days, we put 
up a pole and bark wigwam fourteen feet across and six- 
teen feet high, with two openings, either of which we 
could at will cover with a movable door made of the 
same material. We put in bough beds, built a stone fire- 
place and some camp chairs and stools, and swung a 
hammock upon the beautiful rock, tree and moss covered 
point about a half mile above the outlet, from which a 
charmiiig view was ever present in every direction. It 
was known as Cincinnati Wigwam, and was our head- 
quarters, where we welcomed and entertained our sports- 
men friends from camps on Smith's Lake, Albany Lake, 
and Bog Lake, as well as casual tourists and others who 
passed or stopped at La Mont's. Many an enjoyable 
hour was spent at that lovely spot, and many friendships 
made that are pleasant memories of by-gone days. When 
we were away on our trips we left a birch bark legend in 
plain view, reading: "Cincinnati Wigwam. Use but 
don't Abuse," and frequently on our return would find 
"that it had been occupied, but left clean and in good 
order, with sometimes a note stating who were the occu- 
pants. 
One of our first trips was by wa}^ of the interesting hill 
and dale carry of miles to Charley Pond, a neat bit 
of water, famous for trout and as a good deer huntin.g 
locality, which took its name from Charley Smith, an 
old-time hunter and trapper, whose cognomen was given 
to Smith's Lake, on the northern bank of which he lived 
and had a little clearing near Bald Moundain, then a one- 
half mile carry into Smith's Creek, the outlet of Charley 
Pond, and a two-mile paddle — passing the famous spring- 
that bubbles volumes of cold water into a brook, and 
which is a noted trouting hole. Then we entered Little 
Tupper Lake, a beautiful body of water with some six or 
seven handsome islands, and shores forest-covered and 
attractive. On Sand Point we found the neatly kept 
camp of Mr. Gove, of Manchester, N. H., who was absent 
on a trip. Thence to the Sportsmen's Hotel, then kept 
by the tall, athletic and noted guide, Pliny Robbins, 
where we dined; and after a rest and smoke pursued our 
■way through the outlet into and across Round Pond — 
large enough to bear the .name of lake — thence by the 
well cut caiTy around the rapids to its junction with the 
Bog River, which is quite a stream — the outlet of a chain 
of numerous lakes and ponds. At the terminus of this 
carry, some time later, as we were en route the other way, 
occurred a rather pleasant episode. Coming up the river 
as we neared the carry I observed what I supposed was 
a woman with a red shawl thrown over her head, seated 
on a log, and I said to Andy: "That looks like calico 
up there by the carry." But on a nearer inspection we 
found it was a man with a red scarf about his head and 
the ends flowing back. As I left the boat and approached. 
T saw a bronzed. Spanish-looking face adorned with black 
mustaches and goatee, well waxed, and he was puffing 
the smoke from a pipe with perfect nonchalance. I thus 
addressed him, quoting from Othello: "Most potent, 
grave, and reverend seignor, my very noble and approved 
good master," etc. 
He sat like a statue until T had concluded, and then 
quickly arose and commenced in tragic tones: "Down, 
down to hell, and tell them that I sent thee," etc., quoting 
aptly from Henry VI. 
As he concluded, I extended my hand, saying: "Shake, 
spearc, shake! My name is Whitaker, camping at Smith's 
Lake." As hands were clasped, he said: "xA.nd I am 
Gove, and just broke camp at Little Tupper — waiting for 
my man to come over the carry." I replied: "I have 
been at your camp, and have now some mail for you; 
glad to know you; join me in a bottle of Bass and have 
a cigar." Then we sat down and told who we were, and 
where from, and some experiences, and found we were 
brethren of the mystic tie — and were glad we had met. 
Gove said: "I have been camping in the Adirondacks 
for fourteen years, and love each river and lake, and every 
mountain, rock and tree, for it has brought life and health 
to me. I was nearly, gone with consumption when I was 
brought here first, and weighed only 114 pounds, and now 
look at me." I could scarcely believe that the hearty, 
robust man of 165 pounds could have had such a record. 
Soon the guide came with the rest of the dufBe, and after 
mutual promises to visit our respective camps the next 
year — which Was done — we parted company. 
Proceeding down the boulder-strewn Bog River — a 
good trout stream — we arrived presently at Tuppc- Lake, 
another fine body of water overshadowed by Mt. Morris, 
with its elevation of 1,545 feet, and stopped over night 
with mine host Lem CpT'ry,.Ai thh Tiippfei- Ldkfe lidUie, 
neat- th^ He^d of Uie lake, where we met quite a niunber 
bi" genial sportsmen, and some interesting characters 
among the guides, and passed a pleasant evening. Next 
morning we went on down the lake,, enjoying the varisd 
scenery, and neiif th»» Mthppp^\ at tM MnbWriSci 
Mart Hofady'S,. WeFe ehiertained as Mart alone can 
^htertiain With his famous stories of adventure; and after 
partaking of Mrs. Mobdy's gobd dinner Went on and «jp 
the Raqutette Riyet"; i^nd ilbppid for the hi^Ht Waltyh^« 
at thfc .fftll5. 'rlie next morning we werir up to Long 
Lake, passing Buck, Kempshall, and Owlshead Moun- 
tains as we went through; and unpacking my cornet I 
played a number of selections that, ar&tiS||i ,,hot.h| thfi 
echoes and the natlVes, lor oh stopjEiiHg dt Reilbgg; S W^ 
lound the noted Captdin Pdrker wfth Several members of 
his brass band awaiting tis at the dock; The Captain 
tt-ied and behsittlS enHhiofed With im hiinlatiirft Dia|iH; 
inn then nothing would do until I had given them a teW 
choice melodies, "the best in the band-wagon," as the 
Captain remarked. After dinner we went up to the head 
of the lake, and carried into the inlet. Viewed Murray's 
Phantom Falls, and couldn't believe that a boat eo^M 
pass over and live. W& th^h hM an.otHef- tUh iMW 
and theii put ihtb Fbl'ked Lakie, dhd Stbpped over night 
At the Fofked Lcikis tl'ouse, where We were Well cared 
iot. Next mornihg We startled on a tour of inspeetiott 
around the indented and beautiful forest-covered shores 
of both Forked and Little Forked LakeSj, and lelfe.,Wdi 
repaid for the time aptnt. We also visited Plumley Pond 
— tifuned after the old trapper, hunter and guide, johh 
PlUi-nley, who was a noted character. Rettlrriing to thfe 
hotel for dinner, we then went afef-bSS thte iaify t© tHfi 
foot of Raqviettc Ltlke, a lafge alld singUlatiy shajjed 
shfeet, With various points and bays and islands, aboiit 
which werfe located sevei'al camps and hotels. We passed 
along the north and then followed tip near the Westefii 
shore, noting as We passed the BroWn ftrnt iiilfet, thgnge 
along the ^outhcHi shbire past the South Inlet, and down 
the eastei-n shore until we reached Bennett's Hotel late 
in the evening, and were glad to have supper and a good 
bed in which to rest. Next day we went up the East Inlet 
or Marion River, and carried into Utowana Lake, and 
thi'ough its inlet to Eagle Lake, upon the shore ef which 
the noted writer, "Ned Buntlltie,'' Md a fetteat knoWn as 
"Eagle's Nest." and thenCc into Blue Mountain Lake, a 
beauteous sheet, island studded, and with handsome silf- 
roundings, with Blue Mountain risittg j-,f62 fe&t above its 
northeastern shore. Wc took a turn about the lake, not- 
ing the sewrsil fine hotels and cottages that are built 
about it. and finally stopped over night at the Bliie 
Mountain Lake House. Here were many guests, ilnd the 
buckboard stages that ran over the Very fair mountain 
road from the terntinus of the railroad at North Creek 
were well filled with others coming in, and matters were- 
lively for both landlords and guides. Next day we took 
the trail and made the ascent of Blue Mountain, and itom 
the top of the old signal station used by Colvin in making 
lus survey of the wilderness, we obtained, a fine view of 
mountains, l.ikes ,^nd Streams, and 1 gave expression to 
my admiration by playing upon my cornet "My Country 
'Tis of Thee," and a few other appropriate airs, such as , 
"Ye Banks and Braes of Bonny Doon," etc. We had 
taken lunch, and so dined cn the mountain and finally 
retraced our steps back to ihe hotel and remained until 
morning. Our route back to Raquette Lake was without 
special incident, except that at the outlet of Utowana we 
stopped and caught a sufficient number of trout to 
broil on forked sticks over the coals of a fire that we 
made, and which constituted the principal item in our 
al fresco dinner by the river side. It is a matter of won- 
der how many broiled trout a hungry man can eat, even 
when tired of trout fried or boiled. I have demonstrated 
tl-iis fact upon numerous occasions, and when I had a bit 
of salt pork to lay a strip inside of each trout as it was 
being broiled, more yet could be disposed of. From 
Bennett's, next day, we went on a side trip of explora- 
tion up the South Inlet, and by a carry of ii/2 mUes to 
Shad Lake, and thence a carry of two miles to Lake 
Fonda, the head of the south branch of Moose River. 
We were well repaid for the trip — both were good trout- 
ang places. On our way back we caught some trout in 
;the inlet and had them for supper at Bennett's. Next day 
we went up I^rown's Tract Inlet to the carry, and thence 
I miles to the head of Eighth Lake of the Fulton Chain; 
it is a pretty lake of clear spring water, with sandy 
shores and tree embowered, and very attractive. I re- 
n-iarked to Andrew that if I was going into the hotel 
business in the wilderness this would be my choice of 
locations, midway and in the direct line of travel between 
the east and west portions of the Adirondacks. I am 
recently informed that a p.^rty named Norton, has now 
ilocated there. There is one attractive island in Eighth 
Lake. Eagle and Bug Ponds are within easy portage 
westward, and good trout fishing afforded in all. A carry 
of a mile down the outlet and we entered .Seventh Lake, 
rand were hailed by a gentleman fishing near who recog- 
nized me and insisted on our going with him to the camp 
•on the northern shore, where we were introduced to and 
welcomed by a party oi traveling men who were well 
equipped and enjoj'ing a two weeks' outing. My friend 
knew that I was a cornetist, and having ascertained that 
my instrument was in the pack basket, insisted on having 
it brought forth, and I entertained them to the best of 
my ability. Some familiar airs were given, to which the 
party added their vocal powers, and there was "music 
in the air" for considerable time, and I was easily induced 
to remain their guest until the following morning. Fish- 
ing was given the go by, and cards, story telling and 
music filled up the time very pleasantly. I regret having 
mislaid memoranda with nam.es of these gentlemen. In the 
morning we moved on and ran through the outlet into 
,Sixth Lake — small but pretty — and from its foot carried 
around the rapids into Fifth Lake — the sfnallest of the 
chain — thence into Fourth Lake, which is by far the 
largest and very fine, and an attractive resort. Having 
passed the pleasantly located Island House, wp were on 
the broad bosom of the lake, and had the full benefit of 
the opposition to our progress made by a" brisk westerly 
wind, arid as the waves were rather heavy, it was only. .by 
hard work at oars and paddle that we finally reached 
Perrie's Hotel, at the foot of the lake, rather 'dred and 
