42 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
— $ — 
Death Dance of the Tolamancas. 
X.— Adventures in Tropical America. 
In the deep forests of Southern Costa Rica are living 
a tribe of Indians, descendants of a people who at one 
time must have been powerful, now nothing but a rem- 
nant — a memory of the past, as it were — -fading away, 
and not even struggling to hold a place on the tide of 
new events which to-day influences even the most remote 
places. These are the Tolamanca Indians, and among 
them of memories there is a full measure, discon- 
nected legends, incomplete ceremonies, strange customs, 
held in reverence yet lightly regarded. 
In my wanderings I once visited their country, stop- 
ping at a mission where a few Paulist Fathers were giv- 
ing earnest lives for these Indians. I was anxious to 
learn and see all I could, and was fortunate in that the 
Indians told me of customs and showed me ceremonies 
heretofore jealously guarded. Perhaps the good fathers 
helped me; perhaps it was only good fortune; but when I 
had talked with the Indians who came to the mission and 
remained a few days without trespassing, I received a 
visitor — Antonio. King of the Tolamancas — who came 
to bid me welcome. 
That he was more than an average man, I saw at once, 
though his dress was conventional; a suit of blue serge, 
stout boots, a white shirt, very clean, and a gray felt 
hat which he held in his hand as he stood there gravely. 
A man who was born to rule, to his people a law, and 
yet on his face an expression of sadness but not of 
dejection; his bearing was that of command. 
At once we were friends. All have met with some 
whom they understood at a glance, and whom it would 
seem had so understood them, and so it was between 
myself and the Indian. Gravely Antonio gave me his 
hand, and said he had come, to invite me to visit his 
houses, and next day would send men and horses. "But," 
he said, "ours are not like your houses. I have been in 
the cities; it is better there for those who are white men. 
and here in the woods it is better for us who are Indians.". 
Then we talked for a time. I had learned not to be 
eager with the Indians, and when I had told him 'about 
myself and my country, we sat for a time together in 
silence. Then he called his attendant, and, mounting his 
horse, went away, riding slowly over a meadow and 
then disappeared in the jungles. What a grand man, I 
thought. Yet Antonio, King of the Tolamancas, has a 
reputation for unreasoning deviltry and uncontrolled pas- 
sions throughout all Costa Rica. 
That day I could do little; preparations were made for 
my. visit, and after that nothing remained but to wait. 
When the sun of the next afternoon hung heavy, and 
from the jungle long shadows began reaching over the 
meadows, three Indians rode out of the woodlands and 
came to the mission. A few words of welcome, a little 
advice from the fathers, who were somewhat disturbed 
at my going, that was all; I was ready and waiting. 
Fine men they were, but not nearly so large or so strong 
as Antonio; perhaps he was of a more ancient blood, or 
descended from those who in centuries past had con- 
quered the men of the woodlands, and, ruling, had kept 
themselves somewhat apart from those who served, the 
difference was marked and must have had causes other 
than climate or conditions of living. 
I followed my guides, and after an hour or more came 
to a clearing and saw a number of huts, and further on a 
great conical building like a round tent, but thatched 
from the ground to the peak with palm leaves and straw. 
Here Antonio was waiting with a grave, kindly welcome; 
seats were brought for my guides, a hammock for me. In 
the house it was twilight; at the door the bright rays of 
the sunset; above us the roof was so high it was dark, 
like a cave; a fire burned low at one side of the house, 
great earthen jars standing near it; many Indians were 
sitting about talking softly or resting in silence; yet the 
house was so large I could distinguish only their forms 
from my seat near the door. A shed protected the en- 
trance from the rains of that country, and formed an open 
veranda where horses were tied, and the Indians gathered 
at times, though . for the greater part they sought the 
deep twilight within their strange house. 
For a time we were silent. Antonio, holding a staff, 
his insignia of office, from a large hammock was listen- 
ing to low, earnest voices from men grouped about him. 
They presently finished, and then, at a sign from An- 
tonio, women and boys came, passing large gourds of 
chicha. The Indians drank eagerly, but for me I would 
much have preferred to decline; but I knew better, and 
drank about a pint or two of the sour stuff, said it was 
good, and asked them to serve me again. Perhaps some 
may think that I lied, and maybe I did, but the chicha I 
drank was punishment enough, and having asked them for 
more, I was punished again, and it did me not the least 
bit of good to wish that I hadn't. We sat for a while, then 
Antonio said we would go to a dance for the dead which 
that night would be most impressive. Horses were 
ordered, and I found that my eagerness need not be con- 
cealed; even the king became animated, and expectant 
Indians were awaiting a signal that they might proceed 
on their way; rather strange it all seemed, a funeral, yet 
so much expectation of pleasure. While we were waiting, 
I stopped to speak to a group of boys who were looking 
at me intently. Among them was a lad of some sixteen 
years who was taller and better appearing; his face in- 
dicated a sensitive nature and intelligence of a high order. 
I asked him his name. He looked surprised, and then 
replied: "Me? I am Josecito." This was the heir to 
the King, and no prince could have shown greater pride 
in his rank. Then immediately all was forgotten in his 
eager desire to see the few things that I carried, and to 
hear of the great world beyond the deep jungles; and this 
boy would be King, but a. ruler of what? Of tribal 
legends and of the influence they brought — that is all. 
Now Antonio came and he and his household were ready, 
a goodly company, who conducted me through the 
jungles to another large house, where we arrived at that 
time in the tropics when, after sunset, night seems to 
rise out of the jungles, Here 1 found a great number of 
Indians gathered together. We were welcomed, but most 
of the people looked strangely at me, and then turned to 
the King with expressions of wonder, and soon the lead- 
ing men had gathered about him, all earnestly talking. 
Then Antonio, raising the staff of his office, entered the 
house, the other men following. I went in, too, for I 
wished to see all that was done, and my action met with 
approval ; a hammock was brought, in which I sat watch- 
ing with interest while Antonio, his principal men 
gathered around him, held consultation the same as he 
had done before. The King said little, though he listened 
with care to those who wished to speak with him, and 
then, when all had finished, he raised his staff, and in a 
few words gave his decision. Then some of the men 
came to me with a welcome; the decision had been in my 
favor, and I should see all, and, waiting, made myself 
patient. 
It was now grown dark, but in the large house a fire 
and numerous torches sent a bright, wavering light 
through the midst of the Indians, and high up above 
them till the roof could be seen through the masses of 
smoke which, in the damp air, hung heavily drooping. 
Men and boys now came serving out chicha, great 
gourds full, giving me more than enough. Then all sat 
around laughing and talking while the night grew about 
them, and the air became heavy with dampness. After 
some time had passed a deep-toned drum, a musical, 
resonant sound, called for attention; then, to the slow 
measured beatings, four men went to the back of the 
house and stood shoulder to shoulder, facing the people 
and keeping measured time with their feet. Then two 
others joined them; these wore crowns of white feathers 
and carried gourd rattles. After a time one other came, 
in his hands a small implement made of hard wood which, 
on being struck, gave a sharp clicking sound; then im- 
mediately men and boys came to the line, each with a 
drum — or tambor, in the Indian tongue, a word in a 
measure expressive of the sound made from their beating. 
/In line with the dancers I saw Josecito standing ex- 
pectant, on his head a crown of white feathers, under the 
left arm a tambor; he looked brave and most strikingly 
handsome. 
When the line had been formed, the men who first 
took their places began a weiftl chant in low voices, 
taken up one after the other, and then in unison chant- 
ing together; a sound not unmusical and something like 
that of a wind sighing among many trees and their 
branches. Then a tremulous sound rose up with the 
chanting as the men with gourd rattles now gave them a 
circular motion, then a sharp clicking came as the In- 
dian who carried the small wooden object beat a time on 
it; with that the long line of dancers swayed for a moment 
and then, in a slow, measured step, began to move for- 
ward and backward, with the tambors steadily beating, 
the continued tremulous sound of the rattling gourds, 
the sharp clicking time beat, the drawn out chant of the 
singers rising and falling in rhythmic, monotonous 
cadence; a long line of Indians, impressive because they 
were deeply in earnest, parading and chanting farewell 
to their dead. In perfect unison the Indians went 
through the performance, while the fire burned low, and 
the torches, unattended, now flickered dimly; but the 
Indians continued steadily forward a step; a pause; a 
step; backward a step, a step; gradually gaining a little 
ground forward toward the eastern side of the house to 
which the line was now turned, where high above them, 
rudely fashioned and made fast to the thatched side of 
the house, were three packages, bound securely with 
leaves, the bones of their dead awaiting final interment. 
A long time the dance was continued till a place just 
under the dead had been reached. Then the chanting 
became more subdued, the wailing notes long drawn out, 
the tambors. touched lightly, gave a soft, mournful 
sound, and the rattling fell to a whispering murmur, then 
the balancing steps were scarce more than a swaying, till 
gradually all became still, stood silent an instant, and 
then, without anything further, went quietly back to their 
various places; and in a few moments boys and young 
men came bringing gourds full of chicha, while in all 
parts of the house subdued voices were heard. 
A long interval, during which some fell asleep, then a 
dance was formed as before, this time the King taking 
the central position, his staff in his hand, on his head a 
crown of white feathers surmounted by long, brilliant 
plumes. In this dance- the motion was slower, the sing- 
ing subdued, but in other respects it was quite the same 
as the first. 
Now it was late, and when this dance had been finished 
I Found my eyes heavy; my thought was to sit up all 
night, but the chicha, the smoke, the slow, droaning 
music, brought sleep to my eyes; I could not keep awake, 
The King came to me and said in a voice of concern: 
"What, are you sleeping? My house would be better." 
I roused myself, but presently nature would claim her 
due, and as most of the Indians were now sleeping 
soundly, I gave up the struggle, and the next thing I 
knew it was morning. A chilly gray light and a damp, 
clinging fog came in through the door. Of the*Indians, 
some were till sleeping and some moving about at various 
duties. The King came to ask me how I had rested, and 
to say that there would be still other dances after the 
morning had grown a little. Then we went to a stream 
near the house, where we washed and prepared for the 
day, the King taking charge of me with a care almost 
tender; on his face a serious, unmoved expression. 
Then back to the house, more chicha, and with it gourds 
of boiled chocolate, which I was glad to receive, for T 
was now well hungry. 
A deep red glow began rising over the fog, the sun 
would soon come, and the Indians began to form for a 
dance which clearly would be something much _ more 
elaborate. As before, the singers, rattlers and principal 
men first took their places in a row at the back of the 
house; then at either end of the row other Indians 
placed themselves in line at right angles. Now the wail- 
ing chant was begun, then the tremulous rattling, and 
after that the sharp clicking sound, and when this com- 
menced three Indians bearing a light staff between them 
came with slow steps and stood back of the singers. On 
the staff I noticed three rings tied together and made 
of bark rudely plaited and I fell to wondering what they 
might mean; then a soft beating was made on the tam- 
bors, and an Indian came, in his hand a brilliant red 
' feather, its base wrapped in a green leaf, and he took a 
place_ facing the singers. The Indians holding the tam- 
bors increased the force of their slow, measured beating 
till the whole house was full of the deep reverberations, 
mingled with the weird chant of the singers, the tremu- 
lous rattling and the sharp clicking sound. Then slowly 
forward and back, as before, went the line of singers, 
musicians and principal men, but those at the sides re- j 
mained still; the Indian bearing the feather went through 
the same steps in front of the singers, moving backward 
or forward as they advanced or retreated, and in the 
same manner and on the same step the three Indians 
bearing the staff came following after. This movement 
for a time was continued; the tambors beating slowly at 
first were now touched more rapidly, and gradually in- 
creased till, with sudden energy, the men at the sides 
broke the lines in which they were standing and in groups 
of four, with shoulder pressed against shoulder, began 
a movement with a long step forward, a step to the side, 
and another step back, all in the most perfect order, 
circling round and round the ceremonious dancers, who 
continued steadily on as before. Faster and faster the 
outer dancers beat on their tambors, keeping time with 
their steps, not any one faltering, but in companies swept 
on around and around till the time was set at so rapid a 
pace that all could not keep it; and now each co'mpany 
bent every effort to run into and break up the party who 
danced just before them. A game of rare skill, the step 
must never be broken, each group pressed on to the next, 
and in turn was beset by the group following after, while 
in the center the ceremonious dancers continuing on with 
wailing chant, and its accompaniment of weird sounds, 
were not once disturbed. This required real skill from 
those dancing around them. Now all was excitement, the 
young men forced the dance to their utmost, the women 
with praise or reproach sat eagerly watching. Josecito, 
the young prince, was leading one party, and a better 
dancer could scarce be imagined. As the dance con- 
tinued, one group, then another, was run down and forced 
to one side, till, finally, Josecito with his men, and a 
group of much stronger Indians were all who remained, 
and it now became a race of endurance. For a time the 
honors were even, but Josecito was only sixteen, those 
with him nothing but boys; their opponents were older 
and stronger. The younger party grew tired, faltered, 
lost the step, tried to recover, made a bad start, lost the 
step once again, and then sweeping on the older men 
passed among them, their line was destroyed, and 
Josecito, red in the face, ran out of the house to hide 
his confusion. The remaining group circled round the 
ceremonious dancers, going gradually slower till they 
stopped and stood at one side, beating softly on their 
tambors. Then the ceremonious dancers turned to the 
remains of their dead and the chant died away in a wail- 
ing farewell which could not be misunderstood. Then, 
after standing a moment in silence, all returned to their, 
places. Josecito looked in at the door, and then ran 
away, as if ashamed of his failure. For a time the 
Indians all rested, then a new dance was formed, different 
again from the others in that the women prepared to 
dance with the men. The singers, musicians and prin- 
cipal men stood as they had done before, the chant and 
the step were the same, the accompaniment in no way 
different; but as the beating of the tambors came quicker, 
the women began to dance round and round as the boys 
had done, except that they danced hand-in-hand, while 
the boys held their lines by pressing shoulder to shoulder, 
and keeping the most perfect time in their steps. The 
women gave little attention to time and the step, but 
they danced with an abandon of motion which was most 
attractive. As the dance progressed it became much con- 
fused, and was pushed rapidly on to its end; then came 
the wailing farewell, and the Indians returned to their 
seats or stood about talking together. 
More chicha was served, and then the King said that 
as I had seen all the dances we would go to his house 
and sit for a time, if I wished. Taking leave was of very 
small moment, the same as I had found it among other 
tribes, and even the King was not noticed; we simply 
walked out of the house; that was all. Shortly we ar- 
rived at his home, and in the deep shadowy interior sat 
at ease resting. Then I said: "Don Antonio, why do 
you dance for the dead? I have seen but I want to know 
what it all means." With an expression of real regret 
on his face the King shook his head, saying: "No, my 
white visitor, I love you much, but the dances they are 
of the Sukias and the Singers. I, as King, know all. 
truly, but to tell or not that belongs only to them. And 
yet why should we keep these secrets? I am not a King; 
as the government commands, so I do; our secrets mean 
little now. For myself I wish you to know. A Sukia 
will come; be patient and wait." So we waited and the 
Sukia came, and when he had talked with the King he 
said, gravely, to me: "Why do you want to know of our 
dead, you of a far distant country; what is it to you?" 
I answered, explaining that 1 was sent by the American 
Museum of Natural History, a great palace as big almost 
as a mountain, where records of all the Indians were 
kept that none might be lost or forgotten-— a record that 
should be for them, their children and all people forever. 
Then I told of the museum and the work it had done: 
this caught their fancy, and when I had talked a long 
time and answered their questions, the King said: "It 
is good. I no longer am King; those who command and 
send soldiers care not at all, and lest everything should 
be forgotten we will tell you. Our word is, we will tell 
you; your word is, you will keep the record for us. for 
our children and for all who may care to Know. Were 
I a King we would keep for ourselves our remembrances; 
to-day our power is gone ; to-morrow we may not be at all. 
"I, Antonio, am King, the oldest son first born of the 
other King's oldest sister; so it has been always. 
Not the son of the King, but the son of the King's 
oldest sister, for who knows that a son born to the 
King's women might be not of his blood. The people 
obey the King, and next to the King are the Sukias— 
wise men who charm away evil, keep the Bugaru (chief 
evil spirit) from destroying the people, and who, with 
their charms, save the sick from the influence of the 
spirits of evil which forever are seeking to injure the 
living, and all believe in and follow the word of the 
Sukias. The chief Sukia is wise beyond the others; him 
all fear; he lives deep in the mountains and seldom is 
seen. Even the King has fear of him, and before him 
the Bugaru sever can stand. 
