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FOREST AND STREAM. 
[May 17, 1902. 
outside shape of the planking," and proceeds to take 
off the thickness of the plank on all the sections so as to 
get the shape at the frame of the boat; that is what has 
to be built first. 
He does this by setting his dividers to a thickness of 
fiin., the size of the planking, and pricking off this width 
inside each section. An experienced man can do this 
and keep the marks square to the section all around its 
curve, but you as an amateur may not hold your dividers 
just square; so the safer way for you to do will be to 
set one leg of the dividers on the section line you first 
drew and sweep a half circle on the inside of it with the 
dividers set 5^in. between the points. Do this from end 
to end of each section at intervals of say 4m. apart. Bend 
your smaller batten so it just touches the inside of these 
arcs, and you will have sections as in Plate 6, the inner 
eighth or sixteenth of an inch variation in the depth, it is 
not worth considering). Aft we have a greater thickness 
of wood, as the deadwood is 3m. With your chalk line 
snap its half thickness parallel to the keel and then using 
1 
v: 
V 
W-L. 
line representing the inside of the planking, therefore it 
also represents the outside of the frames. 
It is part of the designer's business to furnish with 
each plan a specification telling how thick he wants the 
plank, the keel, deadwood, etc., and size of frames. We 
will use our own judgment in this case. The keel we 
will make of oak 2in. thick by 3m. deep. So in the plan 
or half breadth view set off iin. from the center line repre- 
senting half of the keel, for as both sides of the boat are 
to be exactly alike, we only draw one side. Snap a chalk 
line to represent the keel 3m. deep in the sheer or side 
view. 
The stem we will also make out of 2in. oak, so the 
same line that represents the keel in the half breadth plan 
if carried clear up to the bow will also serve for the half 
width of the stem. You have now taken the thickness 
of the plank off the sections and want to do the same 
at each end of the fore and aft plans to determine how to 
cut the rabbet into which the ends of the planking fit. 
With your dividers still set at -H$in. (the thickness of the 
plank), set off a series of spots for a distance of a foot or 
two aft of the stem inside of and parallel to the deck 
line, and three waterlines in the half breadth plan. Bend 
a batten through these spots and draw them in with your 
pencil. Where the outside of the planking cuts the half 
Fig- 10. 
thickness of the stem A, Fig. 10, you have the distance, 
the rabbet line is aft of the face of the stem, and where 
the inside of the planking crosses the half thickness of 
the stem you have spot B for the bearding line. The 
space between A and B is the rabbet which you are to 
cut to let the planking in so its outer face finishes flush 
with the stem. By laying off these spots at each water- 
line you can determine similar spots on each one. Nat- 
urally the space between the spots A and B will be greater 
on the lower waterlines. as they cross the half siding of 
the stem at a more acute angle. By bending a batten 
through these spots. After projecting them onto their 
respective waterlines you can mark out both rabbet and 
bearding line on the sheer plan. 
To determine the rabbet line along the keel, refer to 
your sections where you took off the plank first. Take 
Section 1, for example, as the process is the same for 
all, and where the outside of the plank cuts the half 
thickness of the keel you have A, Fig. 11, the rabbet line, 
and by squaring across the thickness of the plank from 
its outer to its inner edges you have B, the bearding line, 
which also represents the top of the keel. Draw the rab- 
bet line in from section to section on the sheer plan §4'm. 
below and parallel to the top of the keel (it will run so 
near parallel with the top of the keel and just about the 
f.hickness of the plank below it. that while there is an 
Fig- 1 1. 
this line do just as you did forward. Take off the plank 
on all the water lines, Section E and the transom, and 
where they cross the half siding of deadwood you have 
another series of spots that will enable you to draw in 
your rabbet and bearding lines aft. 
There is still one more line needed, and that is one to 
show how much wood should be left inside the bearding 
line for the frames to nail to. As the frames are to be 
34in. square, proceed just as if you were taking off an- 
other %hx. thickness of planking, and where this line 
(i^in. inside and parallel to the first lines you drew, the 
outside of the planking) cuts the half siding of the stem 
forward and deadwood aft on all the waterlines and sec- 
tions you used to determine the rabbet and bearding line, 
you get a series of spots, the line drawn through which 
will give you the inside shape to which to cut stem and 
deadwood. 
You should know the dimensions of the motor that is 
going into your launch to make proper provision for the 
placing of it and to mark in your shaft line. 
Both the inner and outer face of the deadwood must 
be trimmed off square to the shaft line to allow the stern 
bearing and stuffing box to be lag-screwed on and let this 
square jog on the inside be at least 3m. above and below 
the shaft line. Having taken off the thickness of the 
planking, do the same for the deck. Measure down %in. 
from the sheer line on each section, for this is as high up 
as the planking goes. 
Making the Moulds. 
With the launch now all laid down full size and the 
rabbet and bearding lines determined, you are ready to 
make the wooden moulds and patterns. 
For the moulds you will need about 30ft. of %'m. white 
pine. For the .patterns, about the same of Yi or J^in. 
pine. Boards 9 to I2in. wide will cut to good advantage. 
The process of transferring the shape of stem, deadwood, 
etc., on the floor to wood is a very simple one, Fig. 12, 
=1 
Scratching Iron. 
Seratthirtij tkfc 
.shape, of a. 
mould on a 
boars' Uti 
on the. 
Men. 
Nails «rTack& 
laid u/ith their ht-adi 
alona ttie. line, to 
be. rtprodmced on 
4 board presvuet 
c/oujn on top 
of tham. 
Fig,- 12. 
Take the %in. flat head wire nails. If you can't get these 
take carpet tacks and lay them about every 2in. along 
on the line representing the inside of the planking of 
whatever section you wish to make. Tap each one lightly 
with your hammer to prevent their rolling, and then 
very carefully lay the board you are going to cut the 
pattern out of down on top of these nails or tacks, and 
then step on it to sink them into the board. They will 
make a line of indentations easily traced and by which 
you can cut out the shape of the pattern. 
Another way is to take a thin batten about 34in. wide 
and bend it on its edge around the section, representing 
the inside of the planking drawn on the floor. Drive the 
nails that hold the batten down so their heads are flush 
with the batten. Then lay the board on this batten, hold- 
ing it close down to it while you reach under and scratch 
along the batten with a piece of brass or iron having a 
sharp pointed hook bent up on the end. 
A third way is to cut a thin piece of board to a shape 
smaller than the pattern, and then scribe the shape on to 
this board. Lay this pattern on the board you are cutting 
your moulds out of and scribe back the same distance you 
set off with the dividers. 
There are other ways I can explain, but none as easy as 
these methods. The moulds for the sections you make 
out of %m. boards. You may be able to cut the moulds 
for sections Nos. 1 and 5 out of one board, but the other 
sections will have to be pieced out. The accompanying 
sketches shown in Figs, 13 and 14 will illustrate some of 
the joints used to piece the moulds together. In cutting 
out a mould after you have the shape marked on one 
board, nail two together and cut both at once to make 
sure both sides will be exactly alike. Compare the mould 
with its section drawn on the floor and see that it is the 
exact shape. While you have it there mark the center 
line, waterline and underside of deck very accurately, as 
you will need these marks when you come to set the 
moulds up in position. 
Hold the two sides of the moulds with a cross piece 
at top and bottom. Plane the lower edge of the top piece 
up true and nail it fast, so its lower edge just comes to 
BEVELED" 
the mark you took off the floor representing the under- 
side of the deck. Let the mould extend up two or three 
inches above this mark. 
Make all five moulds, numbering each, and across each 
at the waterline tack a piece of string for a purpose which 
I will explain later. 
Then make patterns for the stem, stem knee or forward 
deadwood as it is sometimes called, and after deadwood 
or shaft log out of Y 2 m. pine. In making these, place 
the tacks so they will give you impressions along both 
edges, and also the rabbet and bearding lines. 
When patterns and moulds are all made, the next step 
is to cut out and rivet up the backbone, consisting of 
keel, stem, forward and aft deadwood transom knee and 
transom, and cut in the rabbet line from stem head to 
transom, 
[to be continued.] 
Boston Letter. 
Boston, May 12. — There is not a yard in this vicinity 
where the greatest activity is not being shown. Old 
yachts are fitting out and work on new ones is being 
rushed, as the owners are all anxious to make an early 
start. Some of the racers in the Y. R. A. restricted 
classes have been launched and given their first trials, 
and by the end of the week there will be many more that 
will be ready for the season's work. The owners of 
the Y. R. A. boats are making every effort to get to the 
opening race at City Point on Memorial Day, and there is 
little doubt that there will be a large attendance. 
The Eastern Y. C. has announced the prizes to be given 
in the. special open races for the Y. R. A. 25-footers and 
21-footers, and the 18ft. knockabouts. There will be 
six of these races, the dates of which have already been 
announced. Last week the Regatta Committee met and 
decided upon the following cash prizes for each race: 
First prizes, $30 for 25-footers, $25 for 21-footers and $18 
for 18-footers. The second prizes will be $10 in each 
class. In case seven or mote boats enter in a class there 
will be a third prize of $5. In addition to these cash 
prizes, Rear-Com. F. Lothrop Ames has offered three 
championship cups, one to be given to the winner of the 
series in each class. The Eastern Y. C. is to have a land- 
ing station on the town side of Marblehead Harbor. The 
club has leased the wharf between that upon which the 
Boston Y. C. station stands and the Marblehead yacht 
yard. This will be used as a landing by club members. 
Some time ago this property was purchased by a member 
of the Eastern Y. C, and it was understood that the 
purchase was in the interest of the club. The Corinthian 
Y. C. has not yet obtained a town site, and it is not 
known that the club will install a station there, but it 
would not be surprising if all three Marblehead clubs 
should have landing stations in the town. 
The new station of the Boston Y. C. has been finished 
and has been thrown open for the use of the members. 
The house has only been built large enough to fill the 
needs of a station, but it is a fine piece of architecture, and 
the general layout of the grounds is highly creditable to 
Sec'y A. C. Fernald, who drew the plans. A fence has 
been built at the entrance to the property. It is of the 
high, picket variety, with tall posts. Neither the posts 
nor the pickets have been planed, but have been treated in 
green, and the effect is exceedingly pleasing. The build- 
ings at the head of the wharf have also been given a 
coating of dull green, and. their appearance has been 
changed wonderfully. The grounds have been partly 
graded and will probably be finished by May 30. En- 
trance to the grounds is made by two gates, a large one 
for carriages and a smaller one for members. The house 
is treated in dull green and white, the colors of the larger 
house at City Point. Entrance to the house may be gained 
by a central door or by the veranda. The* floats are also 
gained from this veranda, and crews of the yachts can 
pass in or out without going into the house. The first 
floor of the house is given up to lockers. The floors all 
over the house are of hard wood, polished. The second 
floor contains a ladies' reception room, the living room 
for the members and a library. The living room and the 
library have been finished in the Dutch style. There is 
a wainscoting in the living room, above which is a deep 
red frieze. A Dutch brick fireplace, with cushioned win- 
dow seat at either side, adds to the appearance, while 
there are easy chairs in abundance. The ladies' reception 
room has a cushioned seat and the rest of the furniture is 
made of grass. A door leads from the living room to a 
balcony that is at once roomy and pretty. From here 
