4 24 
FOREST AND STREAM, 
[May 31, 1902. 
Temiskaming. By the way, this hotel was a surprise, 
being up to date, with bowling alley, billiard hall, electric 
lights, and, in the words of the lumberman, "they put up 
a mighty strong meal." 
The hotel is a delightful place to stay, being situated on 
a high knoll overlooking the lake, and surrounded by 
plenty of shade trees. At Temiskaming the Hudson Bay 
Fur Company have a supply station, and there are on 
band a great number of the finest birch bark canoes I 
have ever seen. I afterward was told they were of the 
Algonquin model and considered very fine canoes. One 
fine-looking young Indian had brought down the lake a 
very pretty canoe to sell; he had taken great pains to 
decorate it with vegetable dyes, and soon had an offer, 
but I knew there was a conflict, and the Indian won, say- 
ing, "I no sell," and carried his treasure to the lake, and 
I watched his dextrous stroke until he was out of sight. 
Early the next week we boarded the tri-weekly train 
from Temiskaming for Kippewa, some eight or ten miles 
north, most of the journey leading up Gordon's Creek, 
which resembles a chute for pent-up waters to rush down 
from the higher levels of Lake Kippewa to the Ottawa. 
At noon we came in sight of the little village of Kippewa. 
As there were many lumbermen going into the bush, all 
hands made a dash for the dining room, fearing the 
"fodder" would not go round, but it did. 
After dinner I wandered down to Monsieur O. Lateur' s 
place. Lateur keeps a general store, and attached is a 
bar, where good rye may be had. Lateur built his house 
on a boat, anchored it permanently on the lake and thus 
escapes paying the Province of Quebec an exorbitant 
license fee. Nevertheless this same Lateur has for his 
firm friends every one who has hired his guides and 
purchased his supplies, for he is entirely trustworthy, and 
inspires you with confidence as soon as you catch a 
glimpse of his fine French face. His son inquired of me 
all about the relative value of American colleges, . and 
gave evidence of knowing much more of our educational 
institutions than I know. 
His soul was hungering and thirsting for the supposed 
advantages of a college education, just as mine hungered 
and thirsted for journeys over this free wild land where 
he was born. 
Lake Kippewa means in the Indian tongue, "The Hid- 
den Waters," and is a long string of arms and bays 
tucked snugly in between the forests of big pines and . 
hemlocks, having a coast line of about 600 miles, and 
affords fine opportunities for hunters, anglers and canoe- 
ists. There are plenty pike, pickerel or dore perch, and 
in nearly every small stream are brook trout. 
Over this wild rocky region Edward VII. reigns as the 
nominal ruler, but the real king of this romantic region 
is his majesty the moose, and where could such a high- 
spirited sovereign be better domiciled — rocky bastions and 
castles and inaccessible strongholds on either side of the 
Ottawa River, and up and down amid these old Lauren- 
tian Mountains his majesty may roam. 
At home it is all politics and commerce, money and 
religion (these go together), etc., but here there is only 
one all-absorbing theme, that is the moose— who saw the 
last moose, and how and when and where and how big? 
A farmer when either ill or very old may occasionally 
talk of oats, wheat and barley, but when the spirit's high 
and the circulation is good, the moose is the only ques- 
tion of vital importance. 
To any reader who desires a splendid pair of wide- 
branching antlers to ornament his den or office, there is 
no better place in North America to find such treasures 
than this Kippewa country, and easily reached by the 
Canadian Pacific Railroad from all directions. 
Any hunter of ordinary patience and skill is pretty sure 
to bag a moose in a two weeks' outing in Kippewa. I am 
getting old and fat, still I got a fine pair of antlers that 
hang over my desk and instill in me the spirit of pine 
woods, wild flowers, murmuring streams, and continually 
beckon me to the great outdoor playground. By walk- 
ing a mile and a half, I bought my set of one of the 
most intrepid hunters and guides in the Kippewa region, 
Joe Klemont, and any reader may have the honor of 
bringing one of these north country giants to bay by 
securing the services of Joe Klemont, Mattawa, Ontaria, 
Canada, for the moose-hunting season this fall. 
Tuesday we angled and took fairly good strings of 
pike and pickerel, but no bass, so I would rather recom- 
mend this country for moose, deer, bear, partridge, etc., 
than for fishing, for the former is unsurpassed, and the 
latter is. 
The time to go home came, and all too soon, for I am 
cheered by the thought that the wheels of time go much 
faster than formerly. The time between vacations seems 
from year to year to grow shorter and shorter, until we 
finally pitch a permanent camp over in the happy hunting 
ground. James M. Norris. 
Allegheny, Pa., May 18. 
The Wild Dogs of Cuba. 
Jefferson Barracks, Mo., May 22. — Editor Forest and 
Stream: Your picture in the May 10 issue of the hybrid 
wolf dog reminds me of the wild dogs of Cuba, so I will 
tell you about them. These animals are evidently not 
wild as we ordinarily use the term, but either they or 
their ancestors were formerly domestic, and through 
neglect, incident to Cuba's numerous struggles for inde- 
pendence, have come to maintain their own existence in 
the forests, and so are called wild. They are quite nu- 
merous, of many varieties, and of nearly the same degree 
of shyness as the coyote of the plains. The noticeable 
resemblance between them and your picture lies in the 
ears. I have often heard people wonder why a dog has 
such enormous ears, which ordinarily are pendant, and of 
which he apparently makes little use. When one sees 
these wild dogs of Cuba this fact no longer excites his 
curiosity. These quasi wild dogs make constant use of 
their ears, carry them erect like a .wolf's, and thus re- 
semble your picture. Of course with some varieties a 
long period of disuse seems to have deprived them of the 
power to carry their ears wholly erect, still they all carry 
them as nearly so as possible, and I believe but com- 
paratively few more generations of them must exist be- 
fore the survivors will all have complete control over their 
ears again, as doubtless they all had before their com- 
panionship with man removed the necessity and thus, in a 
measure, the power of making constant use of their ears. 
These dogs were more of an annoyance than one would 
at first imagine. During the daytime they would slink 
out of sight as soon as possible upon discovery, and it 
was almost impossible to destroy one with a firearm. But 
at night they seemed to realize how difficult it must be to 
injure them, and they would approach quite close to camp 
in apparently good-sized packs, and maintain a most tire- 
some barking, howling and snarling. They would, unless 
frequently driven off, constantly draw closer and would 
finally charge in among the kitchens, seize any food at 
hand and make off with it. On a few of these charges 
into camp much harm was done in stampeding mules and 
horses, some of which were seriously injured by being 
dragged and trampled by their fellows after the picket 
line, to which they were tied, had broken loose. The 
cooks, however, were the worst sufferers. They could 
leave no food about without losing it. Most of the Amer- 
ican cooks looked on this as inevitable, and, securing their 
stores as best they could, let it go at that. 
We had one cook, though, of a more vindictive nature. 
He was a Japanese, Guido Kawamater by name, and as 
good a man as on© could wish. He cooked for No. 5 
pack train, and upon having a favorite cur killed by the 
onslaught of these wild thieves, he determined to get even 
with some of them, an undertaking in which he eventu- 
ally proved most successful. He built a box 'trap large 
enough to hold any dog, and would bait it carefully at 
night before going to sleep. It seems that the compara- 
tively few years of maintaining their own existence have 
not as yet given these animals the knowledge and caution 
of the wolf Of fox, as Guido had no difficulty in' night 
after night catching one of them. The outside of his 
trap had numerous slats and holes in it, and through one 
of these each morning Guido would thrust the muzzle of 
his pistol, and wreak vengeance on the race in general 
for the loss of his pet. He was so successful at this prac- 
tice that he finally concluded that it was a waste of time 
to wait until morning to dispatch his victim, so he ar- 
ranged a bell by his bedside with a cord running to the 
bait, so that when the dog seized the bait the bell awoke 
Guido, who at once arose and taking his lantern and 
pistol disposed of his quarry and reset the trap — fre- 
quently taking two dogs the same night, and in course of 
time noticeably diminishing the number of these pests 
about camp. 
Some of the packers could not -resist the temptation to 
have a little fun with Guido, and on returning late to 
camp would twitch the cord and jingle the bell; a Jap's 
skill, however, seems to be present even during his sleep, 
for none of them ever deceived him into getting up, 
though, of course, the bell awoke him every time they 
tried it. Finally, in the summer of 1900, when the allied 
nations advanced on China, Guido gave up his position 
and hastened home to assist, I suppose, in looting the 
Celestial empire, and the wild dogs of Cuba were no 
longer destroyed. 
As you will notice, I have changed my address since 
previous contributions, and have now found an excellent 
camping ground. Wood, water and grass are always good 
within ten miles of the St. Louis post office, and we are 
now enjoying a fine change from fighting fevers in the 
tropics. It is true that game is probably not so plenty in 
the streets of St. Louis now as in the days of Laclede and 
Choteau, but if one can't shoot, he can always read Forest 
and Stream, and that's next to it. 
Wm. F. Flynn. 
Among the Goajira Indians. 
When I proposed to make an exploration along the 
coast of the Goajira Peninsula my friends in Colombia 
shook their heads. The Goajira Indians are danger- 
ous people, and I have light eyes, a feature particularly 
distasteful to them, and always rather in disfavor among 
the aborigines of the Tropical America. 
The Goajiras have been known to suddenly attack 
a person with light eyes, even when meeting peaceably for 
friendly barter. The cry is raised "Eyes like a cat," 
"Let us kill it," and sometimes they do kill without 
further provocation. 
We started late one afternoon from the City of Rio 
Hacha, launching a clumsy canoe through the low surf,, 
and were presently making good progress along the coast 
under a light favorable wind. When night came, the 
men said we would go on shore and sleep near some 
Indian houses that we could see a little distance inland. 
I asked if it would not be dangerous. "For you, yes," 
said the leader, "but with us you will be safe." So 
without further words the canoe was taken ashore, and 
we made our way toward the Indian houses, where 
everything was now dark, except the smoldering embers 
of their fires. The moon was shining uncertainly 
through light drifting clouds, all the country was silent, 
and the houses loomed up dark and mysterious above 
the flat open ground of the plain. The men walked 
boldly to the village, I following, my head filled with the 
stories I had heard of the savage nature and cruelty of 
these Indians. Presently we were greeted by the united 
howling and barking of all the dogs in the place, and 
by the time we reached the houses a number of men 
had come out with guns, knives and bows and arrows 
in their hands. A word from the leader of my party 
and grunts of satisfaction came from the Indians, who 
now began to look me over unpleasantly, but a few 
words of explanation and they seemed satisfied. Then 
they talked for awhile with my men, gave us fresh 
water and fire wood; and with these we went away, 
made a camp on the beach and slept as if there was no 
such thing as an Indian. Very early next morning I 
was awakened to find everything on board the canoe 
and the men ready to start again. 
We traveled until the sun became very hot, and then 
stopped for breakfast at a convenient beach, where we 
expected to rest during the heat of the day and then go 
on in the afternoon, camping again late at night. Where 
we stopped there were shallow lagoons covering con- 
siderable ground, desolate looking places, but filled with 
quantities of herons, egrets, flamingoes, etc. ; the different 
colors, brown, gray, pink and white, standing out in 
sharp contrast against the dull water of the lagoon. I 
began to explore about, but the men objected decidedly, 
saying that if I went out of their sight I did so at my 
own risk; and as to their going with me, it would do 
no good; they had no control or influence over the 
Indians living nearby; that they were a bad, dangerous 
lot; and if any came along" we would take to the canoe, 
and go on our way. With such a recommendation for 
the place I was naturally careful, though I wandered 
around a little and did not see even the sign of an 
Indian. After a time we went on again, continuing 
for two days without incident till we came to the place 
where, the Indians dive for pearls. Here we went on 
shore, and waited. There was nothing but a trail and 
two canoes drawn upon the beach to mark the place. 
After waiting some time, I wanted the men to go call 
the Indians. They said that it would be no use; that 
the Indians had seen us coming and would come them- 
selves just as soon as they were ready, and not a moment 
sooner. 
About an hour later we saw a man coming down the 
trail, and then a little time more, and about fifteen to 
twenty men and women had gathered around us. After 
they had talked awhile, my men said that they were sat- 
isfied, and would bring me specimens of- pearls in a 
short time. 
Then two of the Indians went out in a canoe and 
began to fish, the others sitting indolently about I 
wanted my men to urge them to begin diving for pearls; 
but they told me that the Indian law of hospitality 
required that they should make me a present first, and 
so I had to wait. Presently they came in with a basket 
of fresh fish, which was duly presented to me, and then 
all the Indian men took to the canoes, and began vigor- 
ously diving for pearl shells. After some hours they 
came in with a large quantity of the shells, and without 
further ceremony began opening them, which they did 
very skilfully, from time to time picking out a pearl and 
putting it in their mouths. 
As they worked, they answered all my questions 
about the. number of pearls they usually secured, the 
depth of water in which the shells were found, the size 
of the shells, and many other things. 
When all the shells were opened, trading began. We 
had tobacco, sugar, print cloths, worsted and such things. 
The Indians would bring a pearl, or perhaps several of 
them, and make an offer for exchange, naming the 
things wanted. Sometimes we took the offer and some- 
times not, and when the things asked were not given, 
the Indians would go away a little distance, consult 
together, and in a short time would come back offering 
new combinations of pearls and asking different things 
in exchange. When an Indian was successful in mak- 
ing a trade, the others looked on approvingly, but if 
not, his defeat was greeted with shouts and derisive 
laughter. They were perfectly good natured about it, 
and kept on consulting together and offering till all their 
pearls were gone. 
There was one Indian who had a rough pearl not 
worth anything, and too old and worn *to be of any ser- 
vice as a specimen. He offered it again and again, but 
I always declined it; and, finally, he wanted one cigar- 
ette for it, but even this was declined. Then_ he set up 
mimic crying and made sport for all his friends, and 
especially for my men. When he had finished, he made 
me a present of the pearl, and I made him a present of 
a package of cigarettes, and we were both well pleased. 
While the trading was going on, the women had 
cooked the pearl mollusks, and the Indians fell to eat- 
ing greedily. I had never known that they were good 
eating, and asked my men if the Indians would not give 
me some. The request was not completed before they 
hurried to me with' all I could possibly eat, and urged 
me to take more, saying that they did not know that a 
white man would eat them. I did, though, and found 
them very good, in flavor resembling an escallop, a 
little sweeter, and with a peculiar flavor that left a harsh 
feeling in the mouth that was not exactly pleasant. 
After the Indians went away, we traveled on for a 
time, and finally stopped at another place, where we 
slept drt shore, but did not learn anything about the 
pearl 'fisheries, because the wind was blowing and the 
Indians could not dive. Then we pushed on to the 
Cabo de Vela and slept in the canoe till morning; the 
men saying it was not safe to land till we could see 
what was going on, There was considerable noise on 
shore that could be heard plainly, and the men thought 
we would probably have to return without seeing the 
Indians, but in the morning everything was quiet, and 
we went up to the landing place, where there was a 
single house, and were soon made welcome. I ex- 
changed sugar that had cost fifteen cents for a fat 
sheep, and we prepared to make ourselves comfortable. 
Nothing could be learned about the pearls, and no 
specimens were to be had, because the wind was still 
blowing. I wanted my men to take me on further to 
examine a. point of rocks, but they refused, saying they 
had come as far as had been agreed, and proposed to rest. 
A number of Indians had gathered around, and find- 
ing that one, an Indian boy, could speak Spanish, I made 
arrangements to have four of them take a canoe and go 
with me on to see the rocks. 
The leader of my men looked aghast. "They will 
certainly kill you," he said. "I must go along, too, 
and yet I don't fancy the hot sun; better not go. I have 
brought you here, you are safe and this is the end of 
my contract." 
I looked at the Indians and liked their appearance, 
and said to the boy: "My man says you may kill me, 
but I think I can trust you." The boy translated and 
the Indians looked pleased. My men, seeing that I was 
going, gave a groan of protest and prepared to follow 
me; but I would not have it, and proposed to go alone 
with those Indians, and I was not disappointed in them. 
Whatever I wanted to see, and in all that I wanted to 
know, they were ready to do their best for me. After 
I had seen the pearl banks as well as we could and had 
visited their fishing grounds, I asked to be taken but 
beyond the point to where some great waves were 
breaking about a series of detached rocks, and thousands 
of sea birds were constantly coming and going. The boy 
translated my request. The Indians looked at the rocks 
doubtfully, but presently began paddling slowly toward 
them. As we drew nearer they seemed to gain confi- 
dence. "Nobody hear," said the boy, "we can go on," 
and presently we were riding the great waves just out- 
side the circle of foam, where they dashed against the 
rocks. Then from behind one of the rocks came three 
canoe loads of unfriendly Indians. They were intent on 
