814 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
For Cruising Yachtsmen. 
With the purpose of stimulating the interest in cruis- 
ing, and the keeping of a detailed log by cruising yachts- 
men during the- season of 1902, the publishers of Forest 
and Stream offer prizes for the best stories of cruises 
submitted to be published in Forest and Stream. It is 
believed that these will form not only entertaining records 
of pleasant summer days spent afloat along our coasts and 
waterways, but will furnish information of practical value 
to - other yachtsmen making subsequent, cruises on the 
same waters. 
Prizes will be awarded to the three best stories as fol- 
lows : 
First prize. $50.00. 
Second prize, $30.00. 
Third prize, $20.00. 
Contributions are invited under the following condi- 
tions : 
1. The cruise must be made in waters of the United 
States or Canada in the season of 1902. 
2. The cruise must be made in a sailing yacht, power 
to be used only as an auxiliary, if at all. 
3. The story must be prefaced by a description of the 
boat. Cruises should be treated in as interesting and 
readable a way as possible, but should be practical and 
contain all possible information and data that would be of 
value to men going over the same route. A description 
of the handling of the ship in all weathers will be re- 
garded very favorably in making awards, and it is sug- 
gested to writers that an accurate account be kept of all 
incidents happening while under way. 
4. An outline chart suitable for reproduction, showing 
the course taken, must accompany each article. When 
possible, articles should be accompanied by amateur photo- 
graphs taken on the cruise, including one of the boat. 
Good photographs will be considered in making the 
awards. 
5. The story should contain about seven thousand 
words, written on one side of the paper only, and must 
be received at the office of the Forest and Stream Pub- 
lishing Company, 346 Broadway, New York city, on or 
before Nov. IS, 1902. 
Mr. T. C. Zerega has very kindly consented to act as 
judge and to make the awards. 
How to Build a Launch from a 
Set of Plans. 
BY C. G. DAVIS. 
Motor Bed. 
We will now take up the question of motor, etc., and 
look into the manner of its installment into the launch. 
Many of the auxiliary parts, such as motor beds, out- 
board and inboard stern bearings, sleeve, tank, bulkhead, 
etc., can be more easily fitted into place if they are at hand 
when the boat is being constructed before the joinerwork 
is put in. 
The motor bed is the most important part of the con- 
struction of the hull. All motors vibrate; some more, 
some less, than others, according to the design. Even a 
steam engine vibrates, and so to prevent this vibration 
working the motor loose and doing damage, the bed 
should be built as strongly as possible of quite thick oak 
and securely bolted to keel, frames, etc. 
Two things determined the position of your motor in 
the launch; the diameters of the propeller aft and the fly- 
wheel forward. If you know these, which you should, 
before the boat Is planked, stretch a chalk line alongside 
the deadwood to come to the center of your propeller aft 
and to the center of a dummy or pattern of a flywheel put 
in the position it will be when the motor is set up forward. 
Mark this line across the deadwood as a guide by which 
to bore the shaft hole, then when the hull is completed and 
yoti are ready to put on the metal fittings, bore the hole 
along this line. 
There are various ways of boring a shaft hole. But 
whatever you do, be sure you bore it perfectly straight. 
One simple way of doing this is to take two pieces of 
oak about i8in. long by i^xain., with their top edges 
planed perfectly straight, screw these temporarily on to 
each side of the deadwood. so their top edges follow the 
mark indicating the line of the shaft and extend aft of 
deadwood I2in. As the deadwood is 3111. thick, they will 
be that distance apart. Take two pieces of inch oak sin. 
wide by 6in. long, and cut them as shown in diagrams 
A. B. C. Fig. 39. The block marked A has a hole just the 
size of the auger- that is to bore the shaft hole, and this 
block you slide between the side guides you have screwed 
i n and nail it fast on to the after face of the deadwood 
and screw to the guides also. 
To bore with you want an iVj'in. long eye auger, as 
you have J6in. of wood lo bore through, and in many 
launches this is 3 or even 4ft. long. To bore as long as 
that a blacksmith must lengthen the handle of the auger 
by welding on a piece to the handle. Block B you 
j-mH between the ends of the guide pieces and screw it fast; 
the shoulders of all blocks must be carefully cut, so as to 
be exactly in line with the center of the holes. Put your 
auger in place ready to bore and then slide Block C down 
over the auger handle as it is firmly clamped between the 
two and held in perfect alignment. 
Then turn away on the auger, keeping as even a motion 
as possible, so as not to strain the auger into cutting un- 
evenly. 
It would be comparatively easy if this were all there 
were to shaft boring, but nine times out of. ten you will 
fetch up on some nail end or bolt. So here you want to 
remember the importance of not putting any nails through 
the plank, so they will come into the shaft line. But if 
you do get caught and strike a fastening, there are two 
remedies. One is to locate which nail it is and pull it 
Oitt ; the other to take a long cold chisel and cut it off. 
Either will provoke you to such an extent it will teach 
you the lesson far better than words in cold type can 
impress it upon your memory. The practice of putting 
on the plank with brass screws just where they cross 
the shaft line is good, as any intruding screw can more 
readily be removed than a nail. 
When you have a hole to see through you can line up 
the engine bed by stretching the chalk line not alongside 
as before, but through the hole. Center it accurately 
from the after side of the hole to the center of the 
dummy flywheel. 
By measuring the distance from the center of your 
motor shaft to the base, you can cut your engine bed 
accurately to the required slope. 
About the best form of bed for explosive motors is one 
made of a series of heavy oak floors crossing the launch, 
so spaced as to receive the lag screws that hold the 
motor in place. Suppose there arc three bolts on each 
side of the motor base. Measure the distances they are 
aft Of the flywheel, and cut thin wooden templates lo fit 
(he inside shape of the planking and rest on the keelson. 
Cut: these shapes out of 2m. or 2^11. oak, bevel them 
and bolt them down to keelson, frames, and fasten to the 
planking from the outside. Stiffen these floors by jog- 
ging an oak piece fore and aft over the ends, touching 
the frames for a couple of feet past each" end of the engine 
bed. 
You can't buy bolts long enough to fasten through bed 
and keelson. Take y$\n. galvanized iron rod and with 
some V$'m. rings for same, rivet one end and use them 
as drift bolts. AVhere they fasten to a frame, rivet over 
the ends. There are two bearings for the shaft to be 
fitted to the deadwood, outboard and inboard^ 
The outboard bearing in most launches is lined with a 
lead-like metal called Babbitt metal, as it is an excellent 
anti-friction or self-lubricant. It will stand the wearing 
of the revolving shaft without oiling or becoming over- 
heated, which in any other metal would cause it to expand 
and bind. When you fit this bearing to the deadwood, put 
the shaft through it and see that it lines up true with 
the motor. One or two turns of the flywheel will discover 
any wabbling, which must be overcome. When all _ is 
true, lag screw this casting in place. Then slip the in- 
board bearing over the shaft on the inside of the boat 
and lag screw that in position against the inner face of 
the deadwood. This one is called the stuffing box, as be- 
sides acting as a guide for the shaft, it is so made that one 
part can be unscrewed and wrapped with lamp wicking 
covered with oil and graphite. By screwing the cap back 
this wicking is compressed against the shaft, forming a 
water-tight pocket, past which any water that leaks 
through the outer bearing and shaft hole, cannot flow. A 
leak in the stuffing box, due to the wicking wearing away, 
is readily stopped by a turn or two of the screws that 
compress the' cap. 
The engine shaft is attached to that of the motor by 
what is called a coupling. There are two kinds princi- 
pally used on launches— the split coupling and the flanged 
coupling ; each have their own particular advantages. 
The propeller shaft is beveled on its end, where it goes 
into the propeller "boss" or hub ; a key driven in between 
shaft and propeller prevents the latter from turning, and a 
nut screwed on behind the propeller prevents its slipping 
back. A pin is often inserted back of the nut as a double 
precaution against its unturning and letting the pro- 
peller off. 
The tank that holds the naphtha or gasoline is usually 
put away up in the bow, for two reasons— to keep it away 
from the heat generated by the engine, and to counter- 
balance the weight of the motor that is aft. Support the 
tank on cross beams nailed to the frames with a flooring 
laid over them. Do not let the tank itself wear on the 
edges of the beams. Take every possible precaution to 
prevent leakage, and as a safeguard just aft of the tank 
build a water-tight bulkhead. 
Leave a removable hatch in the deck to fill the tank by, 
and one in the bulkhead to get at the valves. 
The piping of the . exhaust and water circulation is 
usually done by the motor people. In fact, they usually 
do a good part of what I have just told you. But many 
may want to do it themselves. The exhaust and circula- 
tion, however, varies with each motor, though the prin- 
ciple is practically the same in each. The motor sucks 
in water through 'a pipe that extends out though the side 
planks below water on one side, with a perforated screen 
to prevent any sticks or dirt clogging it. This water circu- 
lates about the explosion chamber between the double 
thicknesses of metal, and helps to keep them cool, and is 
discharged out through a pipe on the other side of the 
launch near the waterline. In some it goes out with the 
exhausted hot air into an iron can, or muffler, as it is 
called, way aft in the stern, and from this out through a 
pipe above the waterline. 
List of Boat Builders' Tools. 
Here is a list of the tools actually needed, and others 
that will greatly aid you. 
Hammcn 
Rip Saw,— A saAv with large teeth to cut with the grain 
of the wood. 
Cross Cut. — A saw with small teeth staggered one, one 
sMe next the other, or as it is called, a "set" to the teeth. 
Jack Plane with Double Iron. — This plane is used 
1o true up the rough surface. It is long- and; heavy, so 
as to make a true, even surface, and heavy enough £q 
carry its blade through the chips. 
Smoothing Plane. — A smaller wooden plane, also with 
double irons, This plane being fihorter, can fit into any 
uneven place and smooth them up so the surface is 
finished. The double iron is a big improvement over 
the old single iron planes, as it does not choke up with 
chips, the upper iron turns the chips off and keeps the 
score clear. 
Thumb Plane. — A small cheap iron plane that can 
easily be used in one hand. 
Drawknife -to bevel off the ^frames and cut the edge 
of the planks to shape before the plane is used. 
Chisels of two or three different -widths — one J^in., 
one iin. and and one 2in. 
Mallet as a hammer will soon split all the chisel 
handles-; it is a handy thing to have, although you can 
easily make one yourself instead of buying one. 
Brace and Bitts. — The one brace will hold any one of 
them. A ratchet brace for boat work is preferable to the 
old style, as there are many places in a boat where you 
cannot turn an old-fashioned brace around. 
Bitts. — Screw driver; ^in. %m. Y^m. and iin. bitts, 
for boring plug holes and holes through the keel and 
deadwood; 3--i6in., %'m., 5-i6in. and J^in. bitts, for bor- 
ing holes for all fastenings for plank, deck, etc. 
Hack saw for cutting deadwood bolts off; instead of 
this you can Use a cold chisel, but the latter is not so 
handy. 
Nail set for punching the nails down into the holes. 
Top Maul, or holding-on iron. The small tip is to go 
into the hole, where the bung goes, and the weight of the 
whole iron keeps the nail snug in place while being riveted. 
Burr Set. — This is to slip over the end of the nail and 
drive the copper burr on to the nail before it is cut off 
and riveted up. 
Cul ting pliers to nip off the ends of the copper nails 
before they are riveted over, and after the burrs are 
driven on tight. 
Spoke Shave. — To dress off the face of the frames and 
floors. 
Adjustable Plumb and Level. — To use in setting up 
the hull. 
Plumb bobs cost so little and are used to see the hull 
keeps true on its stocks. 
Try squares. 
Back saw is very handy for cutting off decking, etc., all 
light sawing. 
Boat Clamps. — -To draw the planks up to the frames. 
Used anywhere and everywhere in boat work to hold one 
piece of wood to another. 
Eye Angers. — For boring shaft hole through deadwood. 
Caulking Iron. — For driving cotton into the seams of 
the planking to make them water tight, unless you use 
the rollers mentioned in article. 
Modern extension clamps are not exactly needed, but 
are handy to squeeze the planks together when planking 
up the hull. 
Wedges of oak can be made by yourself as you need 
them. 
Reamer for boring out knot holes. 
Keyhole saw. 
Bevel square. 
Cabinet scrapers. 
Erase knife. 
Plugs. 
Carpenters' dividers. 
Scratch gauge. 
Cold chisels. 
Adze (lipped) 
Brad awls. 
Bench vise. 
Gloucester Y. C. 
GLOUCESTER, DELAWARE RIVEK. 
Sunday. June 15. 
The third annual regatta of the Gloucester Y. C. was 
sailed on the lower Delaware River on Sunday, June 15. 
The course was from Market Street Wharf to Chester 
buoy and return. The breeze was light from the S.W.. 
which made the race almost a drifting match. On the leg 
home the wind freshened a little, and as the boats had 
a fair tide, better time was made and som_e of the finishes 
were fairly close and interesting. The summary: 
Third Class Duckers— Start, 12:13. 
Outer Mark. Finish. 
Martha C. F. Kurtz 3 38 00 6 IS 00 
Baby Ruth C. J. Bennett 3 34 00 6 18 00 
May. G. Bitter. /. - I .3 49 30 6 24 00 
Emma C. W. Christie .....3 44 30 fi 27 00 
Sallie C, T. Christie 3 43 00 6 27 00 
Edna F., j. Murray...:..... 3 58 00 Withdrew. 
Second Class Duckers— Start, 12:22:15. 
Catharine C, B. Wilson...,,..... .....3 34 00 6 0C 00 
Woodman and Florrie, G. Smith 3 27 30 .6 08 00 
Tohn Hirst, J. Hirst V 3 40 00 6 09 00 
Lottie N. 3 31 30 6 08 15 
F. A. Wilkinson, E. Tames .3 37 00 C 17 00 
Annie T., C. Dunlcy.. 3 28 00 6 18 00 
Tohn Brewer, T. Messig 3 35 00 6 22 00 
Howard G.. W. Gaurt 3 44 30 6 26 00 
Lillie B., H. Quinn.......... 3 34 30 6 27 00 
First Class. Duckers— Start, 12:25:30. 
John M. Crane..., -.' 3 40 00 6 02 15 
James McGinn, A. Henry 3 37 30 6 10 00 
Tennie F., A. Eastwick 3 34 3) 6 19 00 
Minnie C, H. Kane 3 43 15 6 28 00 
Lillie H., B. Hudson.. ..- 3 49 00 . .. .. 
Eva, J. Chambers 3 40 30 
lona, J. Phillips... , 3 54 00 
Whitehall— Start, 12:05.- 
Admiral, H. Wolfinger 3 25 30 S 52 00 
Defender, J. Young , .3 27 00 6 05 00 
Marion, N. Nolan 3 30 00 0 16 30 
Maggie, J. Duffy .......3 3100 . ,. .. 
James j. Young. .. ... ;.. ,. •' . .. ,., 
Fourth Class Ttickups— Special — Start, 12:34:30 
Emma F., J. Erne .......3 35 30 0 02 (H) 
Open Yachts— Start 12:31:30. ; 
James Ihilley.. N. Flick 3 29 00 5 44 00 
Col. Jas. O'Neil, C. O-'Nejl -...4 08 00 6 17 «L 
Special Class— Decked Duckers Carrying 40ft. Bolt Kopc Sail 
Start, 12:18:30. 
Bertie S., W. Clauson ....3 30 00 6 11 00 
Marie. N. Collom 3 38 30 6 12 00 
Albert S., C-Shallcross ....3 36 30 6 20 00 
McGinty, G. Le Sage. .. .. .. 6 20 00 
llorcn.ee W, Mauer 3-39 30 6 20 30 
Yahs Me, G r ' Pi(ss...., ; .3 42 : 00 6 30 v0 
Judges— William Bell, Robert B. Murphy, James Fagari 
Timers— William C. Hawkins, Oliver J. Stetsed. Meas 
It rer a— Thomas Plotz, Robert Murray, George Kurtz 
Regatta Committee— John Casnct, F. Dunn, John Gcst, 
