S2 
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. 
CHAP. I. 
the orifices of the ears (which are quite flat against the side of the 
head) are also black, and free from hair ; the tail, or rather a 
little stump resembhng one, is just perceptible to the touch, and 
from it grows a bunch or tuft of long black hair. The body is very 
round and fat, and particularly broad at the shoulders. These 
animals burrow amongst the rocks. They are eaten with great 
relish by the Arabs, and no doubt are very good, as the flesh is 
exceedingly white and fat, and resembles that of a rabbit. 
At about half a mile from the castle is a place called Tghrasat 
cAjsw^' at which a Bazaar is held weekly, and whither all the 
mountaineers resort. At two we passed this place, and went about 
four miles south to a village called Tegerinna Aj^:^, where the 
inhabitants live above as well as under ground. We pitched our 
tents in a saffion field, and had our horses shod by a Jew black- 
smith. He afterwards prepared in his house a fine lamb, and 
very white bread, for our dinners, of which the Chowse pocketed 
all we did not eat. We made the poor man a present, to 
his great astonishment ; for no one, if he can avoid it, performs 
any act of kindness to these persecuted people. In the even- 
ing we had many visitors, amongst others the Sheikh, who was 
all curiosity, and ready for as many presents as we chose to make 
him. 
From this place, three other above-ground villages bore south 
by west two miles. They were called Usadena. The inhabitants, 
male and female, had all been murdered on the Bashaw's conquering 
the country, and the buildings were entirely ruined. 
Gharian is famed for the excellence of its oil, the richness of 
its saffron, which is produced in great quantities, and the goodness 
of its corn. The people are fine, well made men, and have an air 
of freedom, which their change of circumstances has not been able 
to conquer. In collecting the tribute for the Bey, each man pays 
