34 TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. CHAP. i. 
for the night amongst some stunted bushes. We made this day, 
south 40° east, thirty miles. 
Monday, 15th February. — At four A. M. made on for Benio- 
leed. We passed occasionally over mountains and gravelly plains, 
generally coming again to the side of a large Wadey, or ravine, in 
which there was some appearance of verdure. Many coveys of 
red-legged partridges flew by us. After winding along a Wadey 
for an hour or two, we arrived at Benioleed JalyJu, at two P. M., 
ourselves and animals much fatigued : we had made, south 50" east, 
twenty-five miles. We took up our quarters in the house, or rather 
in the stable of the house, of the Sheikh. Here we paid our guide, 
who came with us from Gharian, and who was a feeble man in ap- 
pearance, but a most persevering walker. He never would sleep 
in our tent, but preferred lying in the open air, though the Ther- 
mometer was generally at the freezing point, with no other covering 
than his Barracan, not even a shirt. 
Tuesday, 16th February. — ^We walked out to see the houses, 
wliich are built on each side of the Wadey of rough stones : none 
are above eight feet in height ; they have no windows, but receive 
their light through the doors ; and all look like heaps of ruins. 
The inhabitants are Arabs of the tribe OrfiUy and are a fine 
handsome race of people. The young girls are really beautiful. 
These poor Arabs are dreadfully oppressed by the Bashaw, who 
has reduced them all to a most miserable state of poverty. Those 
who remain in the country are in rags ; the others who let their 
camels out to hire, and accompany traders to the interior, are some- 
what better off. They were once a brave daring set of men, who 
defied the government of Tripoli ; and, during the youth of the pre- 
sent Bashaw, fully protected him from his father's troops. Their 
services to him have, however, been but iU requited ; for he per- 
4 
