CHAP. I. 
JOURNEY IN THE MOUNTAINS. 
35 
secutes them more than any others of his subjects. They have 
(and I beheve not without deserving it) the character of being the 
greatest robbers and rogues in the neighbourhood of Tripoh. 
The Wadey produces but Httle corn, as the crops are all sown in 
the desert to the eastward ; and in harvest time the owners go in 
bodies to bring in the grain. Much oil is made here, and the 
palms and olive-trees are very flourishing. W e observed that of the 
latter there were no young trees, and learnt that the Eashaw taxed 
them, wherever found, as large ones, — a system, which, if pursued, will 
in a few years more destroy all the olive groves in his dominions. 
The water here is excellent ; the wells are of great depth, 
many being 100 feet, and others above 200 feet : in fact, the 
labour requisite in drawing water, makes it a scarce article. This 
is the most southerly town in the Bashaw's dominions on the road 
to Fezzan, to which it is nearer than the other routes. 
I took a drawing of the valley, which very much amazed the 
Arabs, and collected round me an immense crowd. We here dis- 
covered that our living amongst these people had not contributed 
much to our cleanliness, and that one of Pharoah's curses w^as but 
too evidently upon us. 
Wednesday, 17th. — We removed from our stable to a building 
dignified by the name of a castle, in which the Kaid resides during 
his too frequent visits to these parts. We had a dozen negroes turned 
out to make way for us, the only good room being occupied by a 
Chowse, who in the Kaid's name was collecting money. He 
was all day surrounded by poor wretches, entreating that his 
master would spare them, and that something might be left to 
assist in supporting their families. It was really melancholy to 
witness the misery which prevailed amongst them ; for they were 
called upon to answ^er the exactions of three masters, none of whom 
would leave them even a sheep, if their extortions were not com- 
r- o 
