26 
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. 
CHAP. I. 
these houses, should the inhabitants determine to resist. Few 
Arab attacks last long enough to end in a siege. All their sheep 
and poultry being confined in the house at night, the Bashaw's 
army, when here, had recourse to suffocating the inmates, being 
unable to starve them out. 
The mountain top spreads from this village on to a fine plain, 
of a mile or two in length, which is in the highest state of culti- 
vation. Corn and saffron fields covered with venerable olive trees 
yield a delightful and novel prospect, to which the wildness of the 
surrounding mountains contributes its share. The elevated situation 
of these mountains prevents the cultivation of palms. Apple and 
almond trees were planted in such httle ledges of the rocks as were 
too narrow for grain, and were at this time covered with blossoms. 
From a crag above the pass we had a most extensive view of the 
country over which we had travelled in coming from Tripoli. The 
Kelb Assoud, or Black Dog, lay north-east of us, about six miles on 
the plain below. All the remarkable places which we had traversed 
were quite distinguishable, and even a part of the sandy desert behind 
Tripoli ; but the sea, which the natives said was often discernible, 
was hidden from us by the vapour arising from the sands. 
The young men of the Douar, or village, took great delight in 
doing the honours of their beautiful country, jumping from rock to 
rock Uke goats, and appearing a most active, hardy set of people. 
My very Umited knowledge of the language was a source of continual 
regret to me ; and I believe the trip to these mountains caused me 
afterwards to apply with more assiduity to improve myself in it. 
We returned with a keen appetite to our dinner, which 
consisted of bazeen, hard eggs, and mutton, and at which the 
Sheikh waited on us. The Chowse and our servant impudently 
volunteered their company, and became our messmates for the 
rest of the journey. The mutton and eggs being despatched, the 
