CHAP. I. 
JOURNEY IN THE MOUNTAINS. 
23 
tions were made on the subject. The old Sheikh in particular 
would scarcely bear to have it taken out of his hand. 
Jackals and hyasnas are very numerous here ; but the quantity 
of noisy dogs which attend the flocks keep them in awe, whilst 
they also kept us half the night awake. 
Tuesday, 9th February. — At 7, A. M. we struck our tents, and 
went on for Gharian. The country here had quite changed its 
appearance. The paths, which in many places were covered with 
broken basalt, were uneven and difficult ; and the ground became 
steep and irregular as we approached the foot of the mountains. 
At three we rode a little to the left of the track, and fastening our 
horses, climbed a small conical mountain of basalt, having very little 
earth at the top of it, and called El Kelb Assoud or 
" the Black Dog." Near this were two or three smaller hillocks, 
also entirely of basalt. Our road was through a barren, but beau- 
tiful and romantic valley, at the foot of the mountains. At ten we 
arrived at the foot of the Gharian Pass. This spot is encompassed 
on three sides by lofty mountains, and opens to the north-east. 
There are some scattered palms here, and a clear stream winds 
among them. Here a small Kaffle passed us, consisting of ten or 
twelve camels, and amongst them one or two l\Iaherries, laden with 
Trona, or soda, ^^^Ja^\ from Fezzan. Their owners were brown, 
wild looking men, and appeared of a different cast from the Arabs 
of Tripoli. In this httle valley, about ten years since, the Hasnadar, 
or Treasurer of the Bashaw, was murdered. He was on his way U> 
collect tribute from the mountaineers (whi^^in those days, was 
rarely obtained but by force) ; and, as the Bashaw had newly made 
peace with them, he was but poorly attended. Whilst performing 
his ablutions and shaving his head, he was fired at and killed by 
some men stationed on the rocky pass, who again ascended their 
