14 
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. 
CHAP. I. 
the town ; so that Christians have not much difficulty in transacting 
business. 
I observed a singular custom to be prevalent amongst all 
Moors and Arabs, from the Bashaw down to the poorest camel- 
driver, which is that of eructation, and which they perform as 
often and as loudly as possible. Great men go through this cere- 
mony with a solemnity and dignity altogether imposing ; stroking 
their beards, and thanking God for the great relief they have 
obtained. Mukni was quite a professor in this way ; and his httle 
son Yussuf (a boy of about eight years of age,) promised fair to 
be equally accomplished. Both of the last mentioned personages 
had also a peculiar way of blowing their noses in the ends of their 
turbans. 
Mamlukes (who are either renegades, or purchased slaves from 
Georgia or Circassia), enjoy the highest offices ; and the Bashaw's 
daughters are not permitted to marry any others. The Admiral of 
the fleet is a Mamluke, a Scotchman by birth, and now named 
Mourad Kais. He was in banishment during our stay at Tripoli ; 
but we learnt from the Consul and chief people that he bore an 
excellent character. 
The public Baths are of the same kind as those said to be used 
in Turkey and Egypt ; although not so magnificent in point of 
ornament or size. The bather, on stripping, is girded round the 
middle with a hnen cloth, and one also is thrown over the shoidders, 
which is taken off on entering the vapour chamber. This is a 
large circular room, having a dome, through which the light is' ad- 
mitted by many small holes well stopped with glass, and by which 
means the air is entirely excluded. The light is much obscured 
by the vapour, which constantly rises ; lamps are therefore kept 
burning, those who first enter being for a time unable to see their 
way. Round the sides of the chamber are raised broad stone 
