CHAP. I. 
TRIPOLI. 
13 
in the present minister, Sidi Hamet (who was formerly Kais el 
Marsa, or Captain of the port), and who can neither read nor write. 
We had often heard this circumstance, and one day put into his 
hands the Koran, with the wrong side uppermost, begging him 
to repeat to us a few lines of it. He evaded our request by pre- 
tending to read to himself for a short time, with the book still 
turned the wrong way ; when assuming a very sagacious look, he 
returned it to us, observing, that " it was very well written," and 
thus convincing us we had not been misinformed respecting his 
ignorance. The Sheikh el Bled, or Governor of the town, is con- 
sidered a very good scholar, and ready accountant, though he was 
once a boatman in the harbour. The contrast between the rigidity 
of some Moslems, and the indifference of others respecting asso- 
ciation with Christians, is curiously exemplified in this man. He 
had sent his son to learn Italian under a Roman Catholic priest, 
without at all disguising the circumstance. 
Drunkenness is more common in Tripoh than even in most towns 
in England. There are public wine-houses, at the doors of which 
the Moors sit and drink without any scruple ; and the Saldanah, 
or place of the guard, is seldom without a few drunkards. The 
greater part of the better sort of people also drink very hard ; but 
their favourite beverage is Rosolia, an Italian cordial, and it is not 
uncommon for visitors, when making calls, to give unequivocal 
hints that a little rum would be well received. Prostitutes are in 
large numbers, and are obliged (if known to be such) to live in a 
particular part of the town (called Zanga t'el Ghaab 
or quarter of the prostitutes), under a Chowse, or superintendent, 
appointed expressly for that purpose. These women are obliged 
daily to supply food for the Bashaw's dogs which guard the 
Arsenal. 
A kind of bad Italian is generally spoken by the Inhabitants of 
