86 
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. 
CHAP. II. 
dreary desert. At 10 we arrived at the town, which rises hke a 
httle amphitheatre : it is mud walled, and has a high square white- 
washed minaret to its principal Mosque. All the male population 
came out to salute the Sultan ; and I observed that at this place 
the change of colour began, the people here being Mulattoes. I 
remarked too, that the greater part of their muskets had match- 
locks, and that not above one in five went off. The houses appear 
in neat order, but very low ; and the walls are built in an irregular, 
but strong manner, of mud. Mr. Ritchie made the latitude of 
Sebha 27° 3' 8" north. 
May 1st. — ^The Sultan, after many disputes respecting money 
matters, set off' with us at .5. 50. P. M. the camels having departed 
some hours sooner. Our road, after passing the palms, was 
still, as it had lately been, over a gravelly plain, having at inter- 
vals large black detached stones lying on it. At midnight the 
horsemen stopped, and at 1 A. M. the camels came up. We lay 
this night on a low plain, amongst some small sand hills, which were 
quite barren. As the camels arrived so late, there was great con- 
fusion in unloading them ; and the men were too much occupied 
to pay any attention to the ladies in the Shiblias. Fatma, finding 
no lielping hand near to assist her, boldly attempted to uncoach 
herself; but the exertion, owing to her excessive fat, caused her to 
fall, or rather roll off the camel, to the great amusement of the 
Arabs. 
May 2nd. — At 6. 45. proceeded on our way, and at 12 came 
into a wadey, having many palm bushes thickly growing about. 
A heavy sand wind was blowing, and the sun was quite obscured 
by it. My horse, taking fright at some object which he saw but 
indistinctly, reared up, and fell back with me under him. Happily, 
I only received a severe contusion on the arm. At 1. SO. P. M. 
we arrived at Ghroodwa, '^'^^J., a miserable collection of mud 
