108 
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. 
CHAP. III. 
of the former Sultans. On arriving there we dismounted, and I 
entered with the Sultan and one or two more. The Kadi stood in 
a niche, from which he could be seen by all the people on the 
plain, and recited the usual prayers ; after which he read many 
passages from the Koran, expressly relating to Rhamadan. All the 
prayers being finished, every one embraced his neighbour, and 
congratulated him on the happy termination of the fast. Such 
kissing I never before witnessed. All who were capable of crowding 
into this house kissed the hand of Mukni, and welcomed him 
with the word of joy, Mabrook el Aid ! " Welcome the feast !" I 
was allowed to salute his shoulder, perhaps because he knew I 
would not pay that comphment to his hand. We then remounted, 
and rode round the town in great state, leaving the Kadi to kill 
a fat sheep as a sacrifice. I was much amused at sight of the little 
boys, all dressed in their fathers' clothes, which trailed along the 
ground as they walked, and had a most ludicrous appearance. 
Some had only a rich jacket on, which hung on them hke a great 
coat ; and all wore turbans over their usual red caps. Every 
donkey was in requisition, and those which had the longest backs 
bore the greatest quantity of elegant riders. The joy depicted on 
every countenance, the fineness of the weather, and the novelty of 
the scene, was really very striking. Clothes were worn on this day 
which had never been used but on similar occasions ; and many a 
Kaftan revisited the light, which had belonged to the great grand- 
father of the wearer. This feast is the Bairam of the Turks, and 
lasts three days ; during which, the people, in their finest garments, 
receive and pay visits of ceremony. Every afternoon the Sultan 
rides out in state. Even the most needy manage on this grand 
occasion to get a httle camels' flesh, and sometimes mutton. 
The great people (as commanded by their religion) give food to 
the poor, Avho take care to come in immense crowds to demand it. 
We were obliged to expend two of our remaining dollars, and to 
