202 TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. chap. v. 
CHAPTER V. 
Departure for Tegerry, through Zuela and Gatrone — Arrival at Zaizow — Pass on to 
Traghan — Visit Gardens and Springs — Arrival at Zaitoon and Touela — Pass 
Villages of Maghwa and Taleb — Arrival at Hamera — Illness — Leave Hamera — 
Bearings of its neighbouring Villages — Large Salt Plain — Arrival at Zuela — De- 
scription of Inhabitants — Author's Illness — Ancient Buildings — Hospitality of the 
Shreefs — Leave the Town — Arrival at Terboo — Its Wretchedness — Curious Story 
of Maraboot — Arrival at Mejdool — Journey across the Desert, and Arrival at 
Gatrone — Feast of Milood — Costume, Character, and general Description of the 
Tibboo — Description of Gatrone — Accounts of Tibesty and Waday, from a Tibboo 
Trader — Tibboo Language — Leave Gatrone in order to meet the Grazzie — El 
Bakkhi — Tibboo Manner of making Tar — Arrival at Tegerry. 
On the 9th of December we began our preparations, and by the 
13 th, had succeeded in naiUng and lashing up all our effects, which 
we lodged in the Koudi or sitting-room of old Hadje Mahmoud, who 
was to take charge of them. I bought a very fine brown Maherry 
seven feet six inches in height, and able to carry 5 cwt., of a Httle 
one-eyed boy, of about 12 years of age, who drove a bargain harder 
than any man I ever saw. My health was very bad, and I suffered 
severe pain from diseased liver and enlarged spleen ; but having 
considered that it would be necessary for me, before I returned to 
TripoU, to ascertain the situation of other parts of the kingdom 
of Fezzan beyond Morzouk, I determined, notwithstanding my 
extreme weakness, to visit the southern and eastern provinces, pro- 
