210 
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. 
CHAP. V. 
60° east. At three, the camel having passed, we went on. At 
4. 10. passed El Gara on the right. From hence Hamera bore 
north 55° east. We travelled all this day, with the exception of 
the villages, over a gravelly desert. On the plain we visited a well 
which is haunted by Iblis, or the devil ; for the Arabs cannot con- 
ceive that the echo which proceeds from it can arise from any 
other cause. At five we arrived at Hamera. I found myself 
greatly exhausted in consequence of the pain in my hver, and the 
debihty occasioned by the mercury I had taken. The Kaid pro- 
mised me much comfort here, as we were to have the Sultan's own 
house ; but we waited so long in the midst of the village, before we 
could find any one to get it ready, that I was obhged to produce 
my Teskera, which soon set the people in motion, and converted a 
set of impudent lazy Arabs into the most submissive people in the 
world, and every one of them seemed equally anxious to do us 
honour. We soon found the house, which was a miserable ruin, 
having only two roofed rooms. The one destined for our reception 
was occupied by five or six half naked Arab women, and a small 
flock of sheep; but they all made way for us, and we took possession 
of it. 
Dec. 19th. — I was so ill that I remained in bed, and was stared 
at by the whole village. 
December 20th. Thermometer 3" 30'. This place is now 
nearly unwalled by time, and is completely wretched; it stands 
on the desert, but is surrounded by a few straggling palms, and 
gardens. The ground near the walls is covered with bushes of 
Agool (or thorn of the desert), which, at a little distance, has a 
pleasing green effect, and was then quite a novelty to us. The 
Sheikh brought his two wives to me for advice : the first, who had 
a head-ache and sore eyes, I was able to do something for ; but as 
for the second, her case was hopeless ; for, according to her husband's 
